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Full text of "The fruit grower's instructor, being a practical treatise on the cultivation and treatment of fruit trees: to which is added, full instructions for forcing, with a list and descriptive account of all the best fruits cultivated in Great Britain; also directions for hothouse building, with the most approved modes of heating by fire and hot water ... The whole written from practice"

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THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


FROM  THE  LIBRARY  OF 
COUNT  EGON  CAESAR  CORTI 


THE 

FRUIT  GROWER'S  INSTRUCTOR; 

OR, 

a  practical 

ON  THE 

CULTIVATION  AND  TREATMENT 

OF 

FRUIT    TREES: 

CONTAINING 
A  DESCRIPTION  OF  ALL  THE  BEST  FRUITS  NOW  IN  CULTIVATION, 

A   FULL   DESCRIPTION   OF 

THE   APPLE   FLY, 

COMMONLY  CALLED 

The  American  Blight,  which  causes  the  Canker  in  Apple  Trees, 
WITH  AN  EFFECTUAL  REMEDY  : 

IT   WILL   BE  FOUND   EQUALLY   USEFUL  TO    THE   GENTLEMAN,    THE 

GARDENER,  OR  THE  NURSERYMAN  ;    AND  PARTICULARLY 

ADAPTED  FOR  THOSE  WHO   CULTIVATE  THEIR 

OWN   GARDENS. 


THE    WHOLE    WRITTEN    ENTIRELY    PROM    PUACIICE, 

BY  G.  BLISS. 

LONDON: 

PRINTED  FOR  J,  RIDGWAY,  169,  PICCADILLY. 
1825. 


LONDON: 
SHACKELL   AND    ARROWSMITH,  JOHNSON'S-COURT,    FLEKT-STRBBT. 


PREFACE. 


IT  is  necessary  to  prefix  a  Preface  to  a  work 
of  this  nature,  to  give  the  reader  such  informa- 
tion as  may  be  useful  during  its  perusal ;  to 
explain  and  point  out  the  nature  and  arrange- 
ments of  its  principal  parts,  likewise  to  duly 
prepare  him  for  what  the  work  contains, 
which  is  of  great  advantage  both  to  the  author 
and  himself. 

It  often  happens  in  works  of  this  sort,  as 
well  as  in  many  others,  that  quotations  are 
made  from  other  authors  in  order  to  sanction 
and  gloss  over  their  own  productions,  some- 
times of  praise,  sometimes  of  ridicule,  just  as 
it  may  suit  the  passage  or  parts  alluded  to ; 
but  by  cautioning  my  readers  against  inex- 
perienced authors,  I  do  not  intend  throughout 

this  publication  to  call  any  one  name  in  par- 
a2 


IV  PREFACE. 

ticular  in  question,  as,  perhaps,  much  which 
has  been  written  has  been  to  the  best  of  the 
writer's  judgment.  But  when  a  person  is 
about  to  become  a  fruit  grower,  (particularly 
on  an  extensive  scale,)  he  ought  to  be  cautious 
how  he  follows  the  advice  of  inexperienced  or 
theoretical  persons  ;  for  I  have  read  many 
works  professing  to  treat  on  horticultural  and 
gardening  subjects,  which  are  more  calculated 
to  amuse  than  enlighten  :  there  is  a  difference 
between  rules  of  treatment  by  which  certain 
effects  can  be  insured,  and  hereditary  customs^ 
(if  I  may  use  the  term)  by  which  advantages 
may  accidentally  follow  ;  yet  the  sticklers,  nay 
almost  worshippers,  of  these  latter,  will  not 
hesitate  to  attack  the  experienced  man,  be- 
cause, in  one  instance  out  of  a  hundred,  he 
has  -happened  to  succeed  contrary  to  the 
advice  of  the  former. 

But  the  treatment  of  fruit  trees  altogether 
requires  k>ng  practice  and  close  application ; 
and  I  intend  in  this  small  treatise  to  explain 
so  clearly  the  necessary  treatment  of  fruit 


PREFACE.  V 

trees  (particularly  apples,)  that  every  one  who 
is  able  to  read  it  may  understand. — I  might 
fill  three  volumes  twice  the  size,  and  not 
convey  more  practical  information  to  the 
reader  than  will  be  found  in  this  small  book  ; 
and  those  who  follow  its  instructions  need  not 
fear  success,  as  I  do  not  intend  to  speak  of  any 
thing  which  I  have  not  fully  proved.  This  work 
will  be  confined  to  that  profitable  and  beautiful 
part  of  horticulture,  the  most  leading  fruits  cul- 
tivated in  this  country  ;  among  which  I  shall 
treat  largely  on  apples,  they  being  of  all  fruits 
the  most  profitable  and  useful,  and  I  may  add 
the  most  beautiful,  for  the  bloom  in  Spring  is 
extremely  handsome,  and  the  fruit  when  ripe 
the  same.  Indeed  it  may  be  denominated  with 
strict  propriety,  a  truly  British  fruit,  being  the 
most  staple  commodity  of  the  kind  grown  in 
England ;  and  unlike  any  other,  may  be  ob- 
tained in  perfection  during  any  month  through- 
out the  year. 

It  is  impossible  to  write  a  book  that  will  apply 
to  every  particular  case,  and  as  this  is  not  in- 


PREFACE. 


tended  as  an  introduction  to  Botany,  or  a 
Gardener's  Dictionary,  I  think  it  would  be 
wrong  to  confuse  the  reader  with  more  than 
is  stated  in  the_title  page.  I  am  certain  there 
s  great  room  for  improvement  in  England, 
were  the  soils  and  situations  properly  studied, 
after  the  following  treatise.  I  should  not 
speak  so  confidently,  were  it  not  from  a  long 
series  of  practice  ;  for  when  I  say  there  are 
thousands,  and  tens  of  thousands  of  apple 
and  other  trees,  in  different  parts  of  England, 
which  have  been  grafted  and  managed  by 
my  own  hands  till  they  have  been  sent  to 
their  respective  places  of  destination,  toge- 
ther with  the  opportunity  of  fruiting  and  prov- 
ing all  the  best  sorts  now  in  cultivation — the 
confidence  in  attempting  this  work  will  not 
be  surprising ;  and  likewise  the  discovery  of 
the  remedy  for  the  canker,  which  I  have 
made  my  study  for  some  years,  and  which 
I  am  sorry  to  say,  I  have  no  doubt  affects, 
more  or  less,  above  one  half  of  the  trees 
which  have  gone  from  me  as  well  as  others ; 
and  the  whole  of  which  were  threatened  with 


PREFACE.  Vli 

a  premature  end,  had  not  the  real  cause  and 
remedy  been  discovered. 

In  my  history  of  the  American   Blight  and 
the  remedy,  I  shall  confine  myself  to  what  I 
can  speak  to  with  certainty,  and  it  is  absolutely 
necessary  the  strongest   measures'  should   be 
resorted  to,  to  prevent  the  threatened  destruc- 
tion of  our  apple  trees.     For  some  years  past, 
the  markets  of  the  metropolis  have  been  sup- 
plied   from    Christmas   till    Summer,    chiefly 
with  foreign  apples ;  a  season,  when  the  price 
would  be  of  such   great   service   to  our  own 
farmers ;  the  reason  of  which  proceeds  from 
a  conviction,  that  when  the  trees  ought  to  be 
coming  into  bearing,  to  afford  a  remuneration 
for  the  trouble   and   expense   consequent    in 
rearing  them,  they  are  beginning  to  receive  the 
canker,  and  notwithstanding  a  number  of  years 
may   elapse   before   they  become  completely 
affected,  still  the  fruit  they  produce,  neither 
keeping  so  well,  nor  being  so  fine  in   flavour 
and  appearance,  as   that  of  those   which   are 
healthy,    render  them  little   better   than    an 


Vlll  PREFACE, 

incumbrance  to  the  ground ;  this  it  is  which 
prevents  a  perseverance  in  their  cultivation. 

Those  who  have  had  an  opportunity  of  wit- 
nessing the  above  fact,  which  is  now  unfortu- 
nately but  too  generally  felt,  and  which  deters 
them  from  planting,  I  have  the  pleasure  to 
state  from  experience,  need  no  longer  let  it 
influence  them  ;  for,  by  following  the  rules 
laid  down  in  this  publication  they  may  rely  on 
success.  It  may  be  said,  to  speak  so  con- 
fidently argues  too  much  self-opinion  ;  but  I 
think  when  a  man  is  really  in  possession  of 
a  fact,  to  assume  ignorance  is  equally  con- 
temptible, with  him  who  is  too  opiniated ; 
both  are  despicable  in  the  eyes  of  men  of 
sound  understanding ;  it  is  not  because  I  have 
written  what  my  practice  and  judgment  have 
furnished  me  with,  that  I  wish  every  one  to 
follow  it ;  on  the  contrary,  knowing  there  are 
more  methods  than  one,  though  not  equally 
effective,  I  should  wish  those  who  are  con- 
tent with  the  success  attendant  on  their  own, 
most  decidedly  to  follow  it,  until  by  re- 


PREFACE.  IX 

peated  failures  they  may  be  induced  to  try 
mine,  and  rinding  its  infallibility  become  con- 
verted ;  and  as  truth  and  independence  ought 
to  guide  the  pen  of  every  historical  author,  I 
shall  bear  that  in  mind  throughout  this  publi- 
cation. 

In  addition  to  the  treatise  on  apples,  bud- 
ding, and  the  various  modes  of  grafting  trees, 
with  interesting  observations  thereon,  I  have 
given  a  list  of  all  the  leading  fruits  now  in 
cultivation,  both  alphabetical  and  explanatory, 
which  will  be  found  very  useful  to  those  who 
are  unacquainted  with  them.  Also  a  descrip- 
tion of  several  other  insects,  besides  the  apple 
fly,  which  are  considered  injurious  to  fruit 
trees. 

The  work  is  divided  into  chapters  and  para- 
graphs, each  paragraph  beginning  and  ending 
with  the  subject  it  relates  to,  without  being 
confused  with  extraneous  matter ;  and  as  the 
index  refers  to  paragraphs  as  well  as  pages, 


X  PREFACE. 

any  subject   may  be  found  with   the   greatest 
facility.1 

The  Canker  which  first  drew  my  pen  to 
write  these  sheets,  I  hope  will  meet  with  its 
due  share  of  attention,  as  the  salvation  of  our 
apple  trees  is  not  only  of  individual  considera- 
tion, but  of  great  national  importance. 


INDEX. 


Page.  Paragraph 

ON  the  Propagation  of  Apples               .  .       1  '  1 

Quartering  Stocks      .            .                .  .4  2 

Grafting     .  .  .  .  .63 

Tying  Grafts                 .             .            .  .11  4 

Management  of  Grafts          '  .                .  .13  5 

Snagging  of  Grafts                  .                .  .14  6 

Pruning  and  Management  while  in  the  Nursery  .     15 

Observations  before  the  general  cultivation  of  Apples   20  8 

Cultivation  of  Dwarf  Apples                   .  .21  9 

Directions  for  planting  in  bad  soil          .  .22  '10 

Cultivation  of  Standard  Apples              .  .23  11 

Pruning  of  Dwarf  Apples       .                .  .     25  12 

Pruning  of  Standard  Apples               .  .     28  13 

Pruning  of  Trained  Apples,  with  Observations  .31  14 

Budding  of  Apples     .                .                .  .    32  15 

Description  of  Budding               ,                .  .33  16 

Untying  Buds                    .            .            .  .36  17 

Heading  down  Stocks  which  are  Budded    .  .36  18 

Tying  and  Sucker  ing  of  Buds                     .  .37  19 

Observations  before  the  Explanatory  List  of  Sorts  .37  20 

EXPLANATORY   LIST   OF   SORTS. 

Ribston  Pippin               .            .                .  .38  21 

Court  of  Wyck  Pippin                .                 .  .     38  22 

Scarlet  Nonpareil                    .                .  .    38  23 

Old  Nonpareil           .                .  .     39  24 

Downton  Pippin                .            .            .  .    39  25 

Sykehouse  Apple                    .                .  .     39  26 

Yellow  Tngestry  Pippin          .                 .  .     39  27 


INDEX. 

Pagp.  Paragraph, 

Hick's  Fancy                 .  .                .            .     39  28 

Old  Golden  Pippin  .                .                 .     40  29 

Franklin's  Golden  Pippin  .             .             .     40  SO 

Early  Oslin  Apple  .                .                .     40  31 

Scarlet  Pearmain             .  .            .           .41  32 

Royal  Pearmain  .                »                    .     41  33 

Margaret  Apple            .  .               .             .41  34 

Duchess  of  Oldenburgh  .              .            .41  35 

Golden  Reinet            .  .              .            .41  36 

King  of  the  Pippins  .                 .            .     42  37 

Wellington  Apple  „                 .                .     42  38 

Kerry  Pippin          .  .                .                .     42  39 

Wheeler's  Russet  .                .                ,     42  40 

Powell's  Russet  .                    .                .     42  41 

Devonshire  Whitesour  .                .                .     43  42 

Margell               .  .                .                .     43  43 

Cristy's  Pippin            .  .                             .     43  44 

Beauty  of  Kent          .  .                .                .     43  45 

Emperor  Alexander  »                *                .43  4£ 

Keswick  Codlin  .                    .                .     44  41 

Luccomb's  Seeding  .                .                ,     44  48 

Northern  Greening  .                .                .     44  49 

Scarlet  Admirable  .                .                .44  50 

Royal  Russet              .  .                .                .     45  51 

Cockagee             .  .                .                .    45  52 

Shepherd's  Newington  .                .                .     45  53 

Striped  Holland  Pippin  .            .            .     45  54 

Dutch  Codlin             .  .                            .     45  55 

Kentish  Codlin            .  .                .             .45  56 

Norfolk  Storing              .  .                ,            .     45  57 

Norfolk  Beefin               .  .            .            .     46  58 

Lemon  Pippin                .  .            .            .46  59 

Loan's  Pearmain           .  .                .            .     46  60 

Hawthorne  Dean  .             .             .             .46  61 

Hertfordshire  Pearmain  .                .            .     47  62 

Kirke's  Lord  Nelson  .                .            .     47  63 

French  Crab  48  64 


INDKX. 

Page.  Paragraph, 

Nonsuch                 .               .                .  .     48  65 

Norfolk  Paradise                     .                .  .48  66 

Woodstock  Pippin                 .                .  .48  67 

Hank's  Codlin                       .                 »  .     49  68 

Pile's  Russet              .             .                .  .     49  69 

Braddick's  Nonpareil             .                .  .     49  70 

Observations                .              .            .  .    50  71 

ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  APPLES  NOW  GENERALLY 

CULTIVATED                       .  .51  72 

Cider  Apples                 ...                    53  73 

Apples  recommended  for  small  Gardens  .    56  74 

The  mode  of  producing  new  kinds  of  Apples  .     56  75 

Observations  on  the  different  modes  of  Grafting  .    59  76 


INDEX  TO  THE  CHAPTER  ON  CANKER. 

Introduction  .  .  ,  .  64  77 

The  manner  the  Insect  operates  on  the  Trees  while 

in  the  Nursery  .  .  .  65  78 

Description  of  the  first  change  of  the  Insect  .67  79 

First  discovery  of  the  Insect  in  another  stage  .  68  80 
Particular  Observations  made  in  1822,  of  the  Insect 

which  causes  the  Canker  becoming  winged,  &c.  68  81 
First  discovery  of  the  Insect  laying  its  eggs,  with 

other  remarks  .  .  .  .  71  82 

Further  description  of  the  large  Fly  in  its  perfect 

state  .  >  .  .  72  83 

Where  the  Flies  take  shelter  in  wet  weather  .  72  84 

The  manner  the  Insect  operates  on  the  Roots  in 

Winter  .  .  .  .  73  85 

Description  of  the  first  change  of  the  very  small 

Insect  alluded  to  in  Paragraph  the  third,  which 

after  causes  the  Canker,  and  becomes  the  large 

Fly  ...  n  74  86 

Second  change  of  the  Insect  .  .74  87 


INDEX. 

Page.  Para;rapli. 

The  third  change  of  the  Insect,  and  its  becoming 

winged                   .                .                               .     75  88 

Further  Observations                   .                 .             .     76  89 

Author's  Remarks  respecting  other  Insects              .76  90 
Description  of  the  small  Brown  Chafer,  which  is  so 

injurious  in  Nurseries,  &c.  .  .  .77  91 
Remarks  on  Butterflies  .  .  ..  .77  92 
Description  of  the  Silk  Worm  .  .  78  93 
The  reason  forintroducing  the  above  Insects  .78  94 
The  reason  for  bringing  out  the  Composition  to  pre- 
vent the  Canker  .  .  .  79  95 
The  London  Agents  for  the  Sale  of  the  Composition  80  96 
Form  of  Label  pasted  on  each  Packet  .  .81  97 
Caution  not  to  use  improper  things  .  .81  98 
The  difficulty  in  convincing,  &c.  ,  -  .  82  99 
Some  useful  Remarks  .  .  -  83  100 
To  prevent  the  Canker  in  the  Main  Stem,  &c.  the 

most  necessary           .            .             .                .     84  101 
How  to  apply  the  Composition  to  Young  Standard 

Trees                 .                 .                .                .     85  102 
How  to  apply  the  Composition  to  Old  Standard 

Cankered  Trees                  .                 .                .87  103 

Trees  past  recovery  recommended  to  be  destroyed      89  104 
How  to  apply  the  Chelsea  Apple  Powder  to  Dwarf 

Trees,  with  further  proofs  of  its  utility                .90  105 

What  a>ay  relate  to  Trained  Trees,  &c.                  .91  106  " 

Observations             ,             .                .                .     92  107 

INDEX  TO  CHAPTER  III. 

PEARS. 

Introductory  Remarks                .            .                .     96  108 

Explanatory  List  of  Pears         .                             .     98  109 

Alphabetical  List  of  Pears         .            .               .102  110 

PLUMS. 

Remarks                »                .                .                /  103  111 

Explanatory  List  of  Plums      .                .                .  104  112 

Alphabetical  List  of  Plums                                   .  107  113 


INDEX, 

Page*  Paragraph* 
CHERRIES. 

Useful  Observations                .  .                 .18  114 

Explanatory  List  of  Cherries          .  .             .109  115 

Alphabetical  List  of  Cherries  .                .112  11G 

APRICOTS. 

Remarks  on  the  Stocks  for  Budding,  &c.  .  1 12  111  ' 

Explanatory  List  of  Apricots  .                .113  118 

Alphabetical  List  of  Apricots  k                .115  119 

PEACHES. 

Remarks            ...»  .   115  120 

Explanatory  List  of  Peaches      .  .                 .117  121 

Alphabetical  List  of  Peaches  .                  .121  122 

NECTARINES. 

Explanatory  List  of  Nectarines  >            .  122  123 

Alphabetical  List  of  Nectarines  .                .124  124 

GRAPE   VINES. 

Remarks             .                          >  .            .124  125 

Explanatory  List  of  Grapes           .  .             .  125  126 

Alphabetical  List  of  Grapes           .  k            .130  127 

FIGS. 

Explanatory  List  of  Figs              .  '    .f         .131  128 

Alphabetical  List  of  Figs               .  .            .  133  129 

Of  Chestnuts               .                »  .             .133  130 

Of  Barberries                .                .  .  133  131 

Of  Quinces                .                ,  .            .133  132 

Of  Walnuts                .                .  .            .134  133 

Of  Filberts  and  Nuts                »  .            .  134  134 

Of  Raspberries                            .  .            .134  135 

Of  Strawberries      .                .  .                .134  136 

Of  Currants              .             .            .  .  135  137 

Of  Gooseberries  .  135  138 


THE 


FRUIT  GROWER'S  INSTRUCTOR. 


CHAPTER  I. 


On  the  Propagation,  Cultivation)  Pruning,  and  General 
Management  of  Apple  Trees. 

ON  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  APPLES. 

Par.  1 . — The  propagation  of  apples  is,  of  all 
other  fruits,  the  most  easy ;  and  yet  no  tree 
requires  more  care  and  good  management  in 
its  general  cultivation. 

The  reason  why  it  is  more  easy  is,  because 
the  grafts  are,  if  put  on  in  the  proper  season, 
and  made  to  touch  the  bark,  almost  sure  to 
grow;  but  although  so  easy  it  is  generally 
attended  with  more  dangerous  consequences 
than  any  other,  tree,  if  the  grafting  part  is 


2  THE    PROPAGATION    OF    APPLES. 

not  properly  attended  to,  which  will  be  here- 
after explained. 

The  general  method  of  propagating  apples, 
is  by  grafting  on  the  Crab  stock,  which  stock 
should  be  raised  from  the  seed  of  the  true 
Crab;  the  seed  may  be  procured  from  those 
who  make  verjuice ;  when  a  large  quantity  is 
wanted  it  is  the  best  way,  as  you  can  generally 
depend  on  having  seed  from  the  true  Crab  ; 
but  this  is  not  the  case  with  many  stock 
growers,  for  they  often  sow  the  seed  from 
apples  made  into  cider,  which  will  produce 
various  sorts  of  stocks;  some  will  grow  large 
and  vigorous,  others  of  so  weak  a  nature  that 
they  will  scarcely  ever  make  a  standard  tree. 

fe 

The  best  method  is  to  wash  the  seed  from 
the  pulp,  and  let  it  get  rather  dry,  for  its  own 
pulp  is  very  apt  to  rot  the  pip ;  mix  it  with 
some  light  mould  or  sand,  not  too  damp;  then, 
the  following  February,  or  beginning  of  March, 
as  the  weather  may  suit,  you  may  sow  your 
seed  in  beds  or  in  drills ;  but  beds  are  best, 
for  when  you  have  taken  your  mould  out  the 
proper  depth,  which  should  be  about  an  inch, 
you  will  be  able,  when  you  have  sown  your 
seed,  to  cover  it  all  over  alike,  which  you  can- 
not do  so  correctly  in  drills  :  the  beds  should  be 


THE    PROPAGATION    OF    APPLES.  3 

about  four  feet  wide,  leaving  two  feet  between 
each  bed  for  a  path,  to  be  able  to  walk  between 
them  to  weed  and  keep  the  beds  clean,  as  that 
is  most  material  to  all  young  seedlings ;  you 
take  the  mould  out  about  one  inch  deep  with 
the  spade,  and  put  it  into  the  path  or  alley ; 
make  the  bottom  of  your  beds  perfectly  level, 
then  sow  your  seed  (just  as  it  is  mixt,  with 
mould  or  sand)  as  near  as  you  can  judge  about 
one  inch  apart  all  over  the  ground,  which  will 
be  much  better  for  the  plants  than  if  you  sow 
them  thicker,  for  Crabs  when  drawn  up  very 
weak,  seldom  do  much  good  after :  then  take 
the  mould  you  have  thrown  into  the  alleys,  and 
sift  it  over  them  about  one  inch ;  but  if  the 
ground  is  strong  and  binding,  about  three 
quarters  of  an  inch  will  be  quite  enough. 

The  seed  will  then  remain  in  the  ground  till 
the  following  spring,  before  you  get  your  ge- 
neral crop,  although  some  few  may  come  up 
the  first  year ;  during  that  period,  the  beds 
should  be  kept  carefully  clean,  while  the  weeds 
are  in  a  young  state,  in  order  that  the  mould 
may  not  be  disturbed  so  deep  as  the  seed. 

The  following  Autumn  you  may  take  up  the 
seedlings,  having  had  one  summer's  growth,  and 
transplant  them  into  beds,  putting  them  about 

B2 


4         QUARTERING    STOCKS    FOR    GRAFTING. 

one  foot  row  from  row,  and  about  three  inches 
apart  in  the  rows  :  let  them  stand  two  years, 
then  they  will  be  strong  to  plant  out  into  quar- 
ters for  grafting,  or  if  the  plants  are  not  too 
close  together  in  the  seed  beds,  they  may  stand 
two  years,  and  the  greater  part  will  be  then 
strong  enough  to  plant  out  for  grafting,  with- 
out being  first  bedded. 

QUARTERING    STOCKS    FOR    GRAFTING. 

Par.  2. — Where  you  quarter  or  plant  out 
Crab  stocks,  being  intended  to  grow  strong 
to  throw  up  standard  trees,  it  is  necessary  to 
select  a  piece  of  deep  loamy  soil,  which  should 
be  well  trenched  two  spades  deep  ;  this  should 
be  done  as  early  in  autumn  as  you  can,  in 
order  to  get  your  stocks  planted  early  in  No- 
vember, then  they  will  immediately  draw  root, 
which  will  make  a  considerable  deal  of  differ- 
ence in  their  growth  the  following  summer,  for 
if  you  do  not  get  them  planted  till  late  in  De- 
cember, the  coldness  of  the  ground,  even  if 
the  weather  is  mild,  will  prevent  them  draw- 
ing fresh  root,  and  they  would  be  better  to  re- 
main in  the  beds  till  February,  when  they 
would  soon  begin  to  vegetate,  for  when  the 
stocks  remain  in  the  ground  for  some  months, 
after  being  removed  and  all  vegetation  ceased, 


QUARTERING    STOCKS    FOR    GRAFTING.        5 

the  small  fibres  are  very  apt  to  rot,  and  the 
large  roots  get  in  a  mildewed  stagnant  state, 
which  I  have  proved  has  been  so  far  injurious 
to  the  plants,  that  it  often  takes  them  the  fol- 
lowing summer  to  recover  themselves,  while 
those  planted  in  February  will  make  a  good 
growth. 

If  your  ground  is  very  poor  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  give  it  plenty  of  good  rotten  manure, 
to  make  them  throw  up  standards  quick. 

The  distance  for  quartering  out  the  stocks 
for  grafting  should  be  two  feet  six  inches  row 
from  row,  and  about  ten  inches  apart  in  the 
rows.  Some  will  give  two  feet  ten  inches,  or 
three  feet  row  from  row,  but  that  I  think  un- 
necessary, as  two  feet  six  inches  is  quite  suf- 
ficient to  get  between  them  for  all  purposes, 
and  quite  room  enough  for  them  to  grow  so 
long  as  they  ought  to  remain  in  the  nursery. 

When  you  plant  your  stocks  you  should 
prune  the  roots,  cutting  the  strong  roots 
shorter,  and  take  away  as  many  of  the  super- 
fluous fibres  as  you  can ;  trim  up  the  stock 
clean  at  the  bottom,  but  be  sure  to  leave  buds 
to  break  from  the  top,  then  cut  off  the  top, 
leaving  the  stock  long  enough  to  be  about  six- 


6  GRAFTING. 

teen  or  eighteen  inches  out  of  the  ground  when 
planted  ;  the  stocks  should  remain  two  years, 
and  then  they  will  be  in  good  order  for  graft- 
ing, during  which  time  they  will  require  very 
little  care  or  trouble,  more  than  digging  be- 
tween and  keeping  them  clean  from  weeds. 

GRAFTING. 

Par.  3.  —  We  next  come  to  grafting-, 
which  is  one  of  the  most  important  branches 
in  propagation,  particularly  of  the  apple,  it 
being  so  subject  to  the  canker,  and  so  apt  to  be 
injured  where  the  graft  is  put  on  the  stock, 
which,  if  it  once  takes  place,  is  almost  sure  to 
destroy  the  tree.  This  will  be  fully  explained 
under  the  head  of  Canker. 

Grafting  appears  to  those  who  may  see 
others  performing  it  very  easy,  like  looking  at 
another  who  may  write  a  fine  hand,  but  it 
requires  much  practice  to  become  a  clean 
grafter,  as  well  as  it  does  to  write  a  clean 
hand ;  at  the  same  time  I  shall  endeavour  so 
fully  to  explain  it,  that  it  may  be  of  consider- 
able advantage  to  the  pupil. 

There  are  various  ways  to  graft,  but  the  best 
and  usual  method  for  stocks,  planted  as  before 
described,  is  what  is  commonly  called  whip- 


GRAFTING.  7 

grafting,  for  which  we  must  first  make  the 
necessary  preparation.  In  the  first  place,  some 
strong  loam,  such  as  will  stick  well  together, 
should  be  dug  and  laid  in  a  heap,  if  in  the  dry 
the  better ;  for  if  you  can  run  it  through  a 
sieve  you  will  free  it  from  all  stones  or  lumps, 
which  will  make  it  mix  the  better. 

In  the  next  place  there  must  be  provided  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  horse-dung  (I  mean  the 
clean  droppings  from  the  horse  quite  clear 
from  straw,  for  it  is  the  best  thing  to  keep  the 
clay  from  cracking,)  to  allow  about  one-fourth 
to  three-fourths  of  loam;  this  must  be  mix- 
ed well  together,  to  make  it  smooth  and  fine 
enough  for  plastering,  and  sufficiently  moist  to 
be  able  to  mix  it  about  easy  in  the  hands,  but 
not  too  moist,  otherwise  it  would  slip  off  the 
stock,  but  that  would  soon  be  found  out  by 
those  who  are  using  it. 

The  next  thing  to  prepare  is  some  bass  or 
matting  for  tying  on  the  grafts.  For  stocks  of 
the  age  and  size  before-mentioned,  it  should 
be  cut  about  one  foot  and  a  half  long,  and 
tied  in  small  bundles  ready  for  the  man  who  is 
to  tie  the  grafts. 

Now  having  all  ready  we  must  watch  our 


8  GRAFTING. 

season  for  grafting:  where  there  is  a  great 
quantity  to  do  it  is  necessary  to  begin  as  early 
as  the  season  will  admit ;  and  as  apples  are  not 
so  early  as  cherries,  plums,  or  pears,  (where 
you  have  these  to  graft)  your  apples  must  wait 
till  they  are  done ;  but  if  you  can  begin  your 
apples  about  the  middle  of  March,  and  finish 
by  the  second  week  in  April,  it  is  very  rare 
that  it  is  too  late  for  apples,  for  I  have  grafted 
apples  with  success  in  the  last  week  in  April, 
when  the  stocks  have  been  out  in  full  leaf; 
but  this  is  a  dangerous  practice,  for  if  the  wea- 
ther sets  in  very  dry,  it  will  so  dry  up  the  juices 
of  the  stocks  that  many  cannot  be  expected  to 
grow,  and  what  do  will  be  very  weak,  and 
scarcely  ever  make  handsome  standards. 

In  the  next  place  must  be  got  ready  the 
scions  or  cuttings,  which  should  be  of  one 
year's  growth,  and  as  firm  and  strong  as  you 
can  get  them,  so  that  they  are  not  too  large 
for  the  stocks  ;  for  although  weak  cuttings  will 
grow  they  will  not  make  near  the  growth  as 
the  strong  cuttings,  neither  will  they  bear  a 
dry  harsh  spring  so  well.  Now  we  proceed 
to  grafting.  In  the  first  place  you  cut  down 
your  stocks  within  four  or  five  inches  from  the 
ground,  which  in  large  nurseries  is  done  by  a 
man  before  the  grafter.  After  the  grafter  a 


GRAFTING. 

man  to  tie  the  grafts,  then  follow  two  boys,  the 
one  to  what  is  commonly  called  dabb,  or  put 
the  clay  on  the  graft,  and  the  other  to  close  the 
clay ;  in  this  way  you  may  get  through  much 
grafting,  if  the  grafter  be  quick.  The  grafter 
should  have  the  scions  cut  in  lengths  about  six 
inches  long,  and  carry  them  in  his  apron ; 
then  taking  out  one  at  a  time  he  should  hold 
it  firm  in  his  left  hand,  then  take  a  slice  off 
the  end  of  the  scion,  rather  more  than  an  inch 
long,  and  be  careful  not  to  let  your  knife  cut 
too  deep  to  get  into  the  pith  till  it  gets  near 
the  end  of  the  slice — this  is  one  reason  why  I 
recommend  so  short  a  slice,  for  in  taking  a 
long  slice  you  are  apt  to  cut  along  the  pith, 
which  is  very  injurious,  although  it  may  not 
signify  so  much  with  apples  it  is  a  bad  prac- 
tice to  follow,  for  in  grafting  cherries  you  will 
scarcely  ever  have  a  crop,  or  what  is  commonly 
called  a  good  hit.  Having  made  your  slice  in 
the  manner  described,  you  then  cut  a  tongue 
or  slit,  which  should  be  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  long,  (this  is  another  material  thing  to 
pay  attention  to,)  commencing  about  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  below  the  top  of  the  slice  ;  let  your 
knife  go  in  not  more  than  half-way  through  the 
scion,  for  if  you  cut  too  far  in  when  your  grafts 
are  united,  you  must  be  at  the  unnecessary 
trouble  of  shouldering  or  tying  them  again 

B  3 


10  GRAFTING. 

round  the  top,  otherwise  those  cut  too  far 
through  when  they  have  grown  any  size,  the 
winds  will  blow  down,  even  after  tying  them 
a  second  time. 

Having  got  your  scion  ready  you  take  a 
slice  of  your  stock  the  length  of  the  slice  on 
your  scion,  make  a  tongue  or  slit  about  the 
same  length  as  that  on  your  scion,  beginning 
nearly  at  the  top  of  the  slice,  letting  your  knife 
slope  gradually  into  the  stock.  If  your  stock 
is  much  larger  than  your  scion  do  not  make 
your  slice  too  deep  into  the  stock,  in  order 
that  your  scion  may  touch  the  inner  rind  of  the 
stock  on  both  sides  as  well  as  the  bottom,  but 
be  careful  to  let  your  scion  just  touch  the 
bottom  of  the  slice  on  the  stock,  as  that  is 
necessary  both  for  its  making  a  good  growth 
the  first  summer,  and  likewise  for  its  healing 
well  over,  for  the  graft  derives  by  far  more 
nourishment  from  the  bottom  than  the  side,  but 
be  sure  do  not  let  your  scion  go  below  the 
slice  on  the  stock.  By  this  practice  you  put 
on  the  graft  in  the  centre  of  the  stock,  which  is 
much  better  than  putting  it  on  the  side,  and 
by  this  practice  you  need  not  tie  your  grafts 
a  second  time. 


TYING    OF    GRAFTS.  11 

TYING    OF    GRAFTS- 

Par.  4. — Having  given  the  necessary  in- 
structions for  the  grafter,  tying  of  grafts  is 
the  next  consideration  :  the  tying  is  done  by  a 
man  who  follows  the  grafter ;  he  must  have  his 
bass  or  matting  cut  in  lengths  about  one 
foot  and  a  half  long,  or  if  the  stocks  are  large, 
it  may  be  longer  ;  this  tied  in  small  bundles 
should  be  taken  one  at  a  time,  (after  dipping  it 
in  water  to  make  it  tough)  and  tied  in  the 
string  of  the  apron,  putting  one  end  in  the 
apron  to  keep  it  moist ;  the  bass  should  be 
strong,  otherwise  should  it  break  if  the  grafter 
be  quick,  he  will  have  to  wait  for  the  man 
who  ties :  the  man  being  now  prepared,  he 
should  begin  to  tie  about  four  stocks  behind 
the  grafter,  and  keep  about  that  distance, 
which  will  give  the  grafter  room. 

The  bass  should  be  placed  firm  against  the 
bottom  of  the  scion,  and  not  let  slip,  which 
will  prevent  the  scion  from  being  put  out  of  its 
place ;  this  is  very  necessary  to  be  observed, 
for  if  the  scion  is  removed  by  the  tying,  it 
is  useless  for  the  grafter  to  be  particular 
about  putting  the  grafts  on  ;  he  should  then 
tie  it  tight  round  till  it  comes  to  the  top  of  the 
stock,  where  it  should  have  a  tight  hitch  to 


12  TYIJfG    OF    GRAFTS. 

fasten  off,  then  cut  the  end  of  the  bass  close 
off,  for  if  the  end  is  left  an  inch  long,  which  I 
have  often  seen,  it  prevents  the  clay  from 
being  properly  closed,  consequently  admit- 
ting the  air  to  the  graft,  which  often  proves 
fatal. 

The  next  thing  is  putting  on  the  clay,  com- 
monly called  dabbing :  this  is  done  by  a  boy 
who  follows  the  man  who  ties  ;  having  put  his 
clay  into  something  to  carry  it  with  him,  he 
must  take  a  small  piece  of  clay  sufficient  to 
cover  the  whole  of  the  incision,  and  to  come 
about  half  an  inch  above  the  top  of  the  stock, 
in  order  that  it  may  hang  well  on  the  shoulder ; 
this  he  should  roll  up  in  his  hands  nearly  in 
the  form  of  an  egg,  then  make  a  hollow  in  one 
side  of  it  with  one  hand,  sufficiently  deep,  that 
when  it  is  put  on  the  stock,  it  will  enclose  it 
all  round  alike. 

After  the  dabber  follows  another  boy,  called 
the  closer ;  he  follows  with  a  pot  of  dry  ashes, 
or  dust,  to  rub  his  hands  with  to  keep  them 
from  sticking  to  the  clay,  and  closes  up  every 
crack,  squeezing  it  tight  round  the  bottom  of 
the  clay  to  keep  it  from  slipping  ;  then  making 
it  perfectly  smooth,  nearly  in  the  form  of  an 
egg,  it  finishes  the  grafting. 


MANAGEMENT    OF    GRAFTS.  13 

The  above  is  the  general  way  of  grafting  in 
large  nurseries  about  London ;  but  where  small 
quantities  only  are  wanted  to  be  grafted,  the 
grafter  may  tie  his  own  grafts,  and  one  boy 
will  serve  both  to  dab  and  close. 

I  have  treated  as  fully  as  possible  on  grafting 
of  apples,  as  it  will  serve  for  most  other  fruits* 
for  this  practice  of  grafting,  is  far  preferable  to 
saddle  or  rind  grafting  for  fruit  trees. 

MANAGEMENT    OF    GRAFTS. 

Par.  5. — We  next  proceed  to  the  manage- 
ment of  grafts,  which  it  is  necessary  to^  pay 
great  attention  to. 

The  grafts  will  not  require  any  thing  to  be 
done  to  them  till  they  have  grown  five  or  six 
inches  long,  unless  suckers  should  breakout 
from  the  stock  before  the  graft  shoots,  which 
must  be  carefully  cut  off  and  not  pulled  off, 
for  by  pulling  them  off  you  leave  holes  in  the 
stock  which  the  insect  is  very  fond  of  getting 
into,  and  of  course  the  bottom  is  the  most  dan- 
gerous part  of  the  tree  to  get  the  canker  in, 
therefore  they  should  be  cut  off  as  clean  as 
possible,  and  when  the  grafts  have  grown  five 
or  six  inches  long,  you  should  watch  your  op- 
portunity after  rain  and  the  clay  is  wet,  to  go 


14  SNAGGING    OF    GRAFTS. 

over  your  grafts  and  take  off  those  clays  which 
have  grown  out  that  length,  as  they  will  then 
come  off  easy,  and  leave  those  which  have  not 
grown  out  sufficient  till  another  time,  for  if  you 
take  them  off  too  soon,  and  hot  dry  weather 
should  ensue,  they  are  very  apt  to  wither  up  ; 
if  the  weather  should  continue  dry,  and  your 
grafts  grow  too  long,  you  must  then  get  the 
clays  off  by  knocking  them  with  the  handle  of 
your  knife,  or  any  thing  that  will  answer  the 
purpose,  but  be  sure  to  hold  the  graft  as  steady 
as  you  can  with  one  hand  to  keep  it  from  being 
removed  out  of  its  place,  for  that  would  be  sure 
death  to  the  graft,  therefore  as  this  is  so  much 
more  trouble  it  is  necessary  to  take  every  op- 
portunity after  rain. 

The  day  after  the  clays  are  removed  you 
may  untie  the  bass,  observing  that  you  cut 
your  bass  at  the  back  of  the  stock,  and  by  fol- 
lowing the  above  practice  they  will  require 
no  more  tying,  nor  any  further  attention  through 
the  summer,  than  keeping  them  free  from 
suckers,  and  cutting  off  the  small  piece  of 
wood  at  the  top  of  the  stock,  commonly  called 
snagging,  but  this  must  be  carefully  done. 

SNAGGING    OF    GRAFTS. 

Par.  6. — When  you  commence  this  work, 


MANAGEMENT  OF  APPLES  IN  NURSERY.       15 

which  you  may  do  any  time  after  midsummer, 
it  is  necessary  to  have  a  sharp  knife  with  a 
smooth  edge  to  avoid  the  knife  slipping  and 
cutting  the  stem  of  the  graft,  which  it  is  very 
apt  to  do  if  your  knife  has  a  bad  edge,  and  by 
making  those  cuts  in  the  summer  season  it 
leaves  a  place  where  the  insect  is  very  fond 
of  getting  in  and  causing  the  tree  to  canker. 

It  is  necessary  your  knife  should  be  strong, 
and  held  very  tight  in  the  hand  :  after  a  little 
practice  if  your  stocks  are  not  very  strong,  you 
will  be  able  to  take  the  snag  off  with  one  cut,  and 
after  this  work  is  performed  they  will  require 
no  further  attention  through  the  summer.  I 
shall  hereafter  make  some  interesting  observa- 
tions on  grafting  generally,  with  other  methods. 

PRUNING    AND    MANAGEMENT    OF    APPLES 
WHILE    IN    THE    NURSERY. 

Par.  7. — The  next  thing  to  explain  is  the 
pruning  and  management  while  they  remain  in 
the  nursery.  The  first  autumn  after  grafting 
they  are  what  are  called  maiden  trees,  and 
they  generally  produce  from  one  to  three 
shoots,  and  are  by  many  preferred  in  this  state 
for  general  planting,  where  dwarf  trees  are  re- 
quired, which,  in  some  instances,  are  to  be  re- 
commended ;  for  where  the  tree  has  thrown 


16     MANAGEMENT  OF  APPLES  IN  NURSERY. 

out  three  shoots  from  the  alternate  buds  (but 
not  twin  buds  from  the  same  joint,)  the  three 
shoots  will  be  quite  sufficient  to  form  the  bot- 
tom of  the  tree,  and  those  shoots  wiil  often 
throw  out  quite  wood  enough  for  the  tree  to 
support,  which  will  be  hereafter  explained 
under  the  general  head  of  pruning/ 

But  I  shall  now  confine  myself  to  the  general 
management,  while  they  remain  in  the  nursery. 
Dwarf  trees,  as  well  as  standards,  being  now 
in  general  request,  it  is  necessary,  when  the 
pruning  season  commences,  to  reserve  those 
for  dwarfs  which  are  not  likely  to  make  stan- 
dards; therefore,  after  having  drawn  or  taken 
away  as  many  maiden  trees  as  you  may  require, 
all  those  you  intend  for  standards  you  must 
take  off  all  shoots  but  one,  leaving  the  strongest 
and  most  upright. 

Those  intended  for  dwarfs  should  be  those 
where  the  shoots  are  not  upright  or  strong ; 
in  this  case  you  ought  to  cut  all  off  but  two 
shoots,  and  cut  those  shoots  down  to  about 
three  buds ;  or  where  one  shoot  is  much 
weaker  than  the  other,  in  order  to  form  a  hand- 
some tree,  it  is  better  to  take  off  the  weak 
shoot  and  cut  down  the  strong  one  to  four  or 
five  buds,  which  will  produce  quite  a  sufficient 


MANAGEMENT  OF  APPLES  IN  NURSERY.      17 

quantity  of  shoots,  and  prevent  the  tree  grow- 
ing  strong  on  one  side  and  weak  on  the  other ; 
this  having  been  performed,  will  be  all  the 
pruning  they  will  require  till  the  following 
summer,  when  those  intended  for  standards 
will  require  what  is  called  spurring  in,  that  is, 
while  they  are  in  a  growing  state,  soon  after 
Midsummer,  the  young  shoots  which  they 
throw  out  from  the  side  of  the  tree  should  be 
cut  off  within  about  an  inch  from  the  stem,  ex- 
cept about  five  or  six  at  the  top,  which  will 
cause  a  general  circulation  of  the  sap,  and 
make  the  trees  grow  evidently  stronger  and 
taller  during  the  summer  ;  but  unless  they  are 
taken  before  they  have  done  growing,  it  will 
be  of  no  use,  but  had  better  cut  them  close  off 
to  the  stem  towards  autumn,  which  it  is  ne- 
cessary should  be  done  to  form  a  head  with 
five  or  six  shoots. 

The  trees  at  this  age  being  generally  about 
three  or  four  feet  high  in  the  stem,  and  com- 
monly called  half  standards,  those  wishing  to 
plant  half  standards,  cannot  plant  them  at  a 
better  age,  if  the  trees  have  made  a  strong 
growth,  for  the  shoots  are  alternately  formed, 
and  consequently  never  crowd  or  injure  each 
other,  which  is  often  the  case  where  a  tree  has 
been  headed  down  unless  it  is  carefully  pruned. 


18  MANAGEMENT    OF    APPLES    IN    NURSERY. 

but  this  the  reader  will  be  more  fully  furnished 
with  under  the  head  of  pruning. 

The  dwarfs  likewise  after  one  year  heading 
down,  will  have  formed  shoots  enough,  and  will 
never  be  at  a  better  age  for  planting. 

Although  a  few  trees  may  have  grown  five  or 
six  feet  high,  and  make  tolerable  good  standards 
the  second  year,  you  seldom  find  many ;  there- 
fore after  taking  away  as  many  half  standards 
as  you  may  have  occasion  for,  the  March  fol- 
lowing begin  to  make  your  half  standards  into 
standards,  by  cutting  off  all  the  side  shoots, 
leaving  the  upright  shoots,  cutting  that  off 
about  five  feet  six  inches  high,  and  some  six 
feet,  but  trees  are  none  the  better  for  being  too 
high  in  the  stem. 

After  the  next  summer's  growth,  if  the  trees 
are  tolerably  strong  and  have  formed  a  head  of 
five  or  six  shoots,  they  cannot  be  in  a  better 
state  for  general  planting,  for  their  shoots 
likewise  are  formed  alternately  from  the  stem, 
which  when  they  get  large,  causes  every  limb 
to  receive  free  and  equal  nourishment  from  the 
main  stem. 

As  the  trees  will  not  be  all  fit  this  season,  it  is 


MANAGEMENT    OF    APPLES    IN    NURSERY.    19 

necessary  to  be  careful  how  those  are  pruned 
which  are  left,  in  order  to  keep  their  heads 
young,  free,  and  flourishing  ;  if  the  stem  of  the 
tree  should  not  be  higher  than  you  may 
wish  it,  the  best  way  will  be  to  trim  the 
lower  shoots  clean  off,  leaving  only  the  two  top 
ones,  and  cut  those  two  down  to  about  three 
or  four  buds  each ;  or  if  you  wish  the  tree  lower 
you  must  cut  it  down  to  the  two  bottom 
shoots,  and  be  careful  when  you  are  pruning  at 
this  season,  to  cut  as  close  as  you  can  to  a  bud, 
for  what  wood  you  leave  above  the  bud  be- 
comes a  dead  substance,  and  if  it  does  no  other 
injury  it  greatly  disfigures  the  tree,  besides 
making  it  awkward  to  remove  after  the  tree 
has  formed  a  head. 

The  above  instructions  are  from  the  time 
of  planting  the  stocks.  I  have  allowed 
them  to  remain  six  years  in  the  quarters  before 
the  ground  is  cleared,  which  I  think  quite  long 
enough,  therefore  shall  not  give  any  further  in- 
structions for  pruning  while  they  remain  in  the 
nursery,  for  they  would  not  pay  for  standing, 
neither  would  I  recommend  old  trees  for  plant- 
ing, for  although  old  trees  may  grow  and  per- 
haps bear  almost  immediately,  the  fruit  would 
not  be  near  so  fine  as  those  produced  from 


20         ON    THE    CULTIVATION    OF    APPLES. 

young  trees,  neither  would  they  succeed  so 
well  in  future. 


OBSERVATIONS     BEFORE     THE    GENERAL    CULTI- 
VATION   OF    APPLES. 

Par.  8. — It  is  both  necessary  and  important 
to  make  some  observations  on  the  cultivation 
of  apples,  as  it  more  or  less  affects  fruit  growers 
generally,  for  it  is  too  often  the  case,  (some  for 
want  of  thought,  others  for  want  of  experience) 
to  go  upon  one  broad  plan,  without  studying 
the  situation,  the  soil,  or  the  different  sorts  of 
fruit,  which  would  best  suit  the  different  situ- 
ations, which  I  shall  endeavour  to  explain,  at 
the  same  time  confine  myself  to  a  limited  num- 
ber of  sorts  such  as  are  most  esteemed,  for  to 
introduce  two  or  three  hundred  sorts  of  apples, 
two  thirds  of  which  are  not  worth  growing, 
would  only  confuse  the  reader  and  render  it 
difficult  to  choose. 

I  shall  therefore  confine  myself  to  fifty  sorts, 
giving  each  their  true  character;  for  it  is  very 
necessary  when  you  plant  either  in  large  quan- 
tities for  the  market,  or  in  gardens  for  the  use  of 
the  family,  to  plant  such  sorts  as  will  come 
in  succession  all  the  year  round,  which  will  be 


CULTIVATION    OF    DWARF    APPLES.  21 

here  explained,  and  the  different  seasons  when 
each  sort  is  in  its  highest  perfection. 

CULTIVATION    OF    DWARF    APPLES. 

Par.  9. — As  dwarf  apples  are  now  so  much 
cultivated,  we  will  commence  with  planting  un- 
trained dwarfs  in  gardens :  having  first  selected 
your  sorts,  you  must  get  such  trees  from  the 
nursery  as  described  in  paragraph  the  seventh  ; 
but  before  you  plant,  you  should  study  the 
situation  and  the  soil ;  for  although  many  per- 
sons are  afraid  to  plant  apples,  because  those  of 
their  neighbours  do  not  flourish,  and  the  land 
does  not  appear  to  suit  them,  I  should  not  be 
afraid  of  failing  to  have  fine  trees  and  fine  fruit 
in  any  soil  with  my  treatment. 

Apples  are  fond  of  a  deep  loamy  soil, 
and  a  situation  where  they  will  have  plenty  of 
sun,  and  where  the  soil  is  naturally  good ;  you 
need  not  take  any  further  trouble  (where  the 
ground  is  in  the  habit  of  being  dug)  than  open- 
ing a  hole  sufficiently  large  to  take  the  root 
in  easily,  loosening  the  bottom  of  the  hole 
about  a  spade  deep,  and  having  pruned  the 
roots,  plant  them  in  the  same  soil,  and 
these  you  may  plant  in  any  convenient  corner 
of  the  garden,  the  same  as  you  would  a  currant 
or  gooseberry  tree,  and  if  required  will  not  take 


22  DIRECTIONS    FOR    PLANTING   IN    BAD    SOIL. 

up  more  room  by  being  properly  pruned  ; 
and  the  same  rule  may  be  followed  in  the 
shrubbery,  at  such  convenient  distances 
where  you  can  find  an  open  place  for 
the  sun  to  get  at  the  fruit,  or  if  a  piece  of 
ground  is  set  apart  for  a  plantation  of  dwarf 
apples,  the  distance  I  should  recommend, 
would  be  about  twelve  feet  apart,  and  then  by 
keeping  them  properly  pruned,  they  would 
have  plenty  of  room  to  grow  and  receive  the 
nourishment  of  the  sun  and  air. — See  Prun- 
ing. 

DIRECTIONS    FOR    PLANTING    IN    BAD    SOIL. 

Par.  10. — I  shall  now  give  directions  for 
planting  where  the  apples  are  not  fond  of  the 
soil,  say  the  soil  is  of  a  gravelly  nature,  or 
nearly  a  bed  of  gravel. 

You  must  open  a  hole  at  least  three  feet 
square  and  three  feet  deep,  bring  in  some 
soil  bordering  on  clay,  and  put  at  bottom  (which 
will  keep  cool)  about  one  foot  thick,  then  fill 
up  the  other  two  feet  with  rich  loam,  and  plant 
your  tree  right  in  the  centre. 

This  it  may  be  said  is  a  great  deal  of  trouble, 
but  what  is  a  garden  without  an  apple  tree,  and 


CULTIVATION    OF    STANDARD    APPLES.       23 

when  once  done  they  will  last  for  many  years, 
either  in  gravelly  or  sandy  soil,  in  neither  of 
which  apples  will  do  well  alone. 

It  is  under  the  above  treatment  indispensably 
necessary  to  study  the  sort  of  stock  your  apple 
is  grafted  on  \  it  should  be  the  small  Paradise 
stock,  for  apples  grafted  on  these  stocks  will 
bloom  beautifully  and  produce  fruit  even  in  pots, 
as  the  root  is  of  a  fine  fibrous  nature,  and  will 
remain  in  a  small  compass ;  but  the  crab  is  natu- 
rally a  strong  rooted  tree,  and  would  soon  over- 
run the  boundaries  of  the  hole  made  for  it,  and 
consequently  not  flourish  after  :  in  fact,  apples 
grafted  on  paradise  stocks  are  greatly  recom- 
mended as  dwarfs,  where  you  do  not  want  the 
trees  to  grow  large,  for  they  generally  bear 
very  freely  on  those  stocks,  and  although  the 
fruit  will  come  very  fine,  they  do  not  produce 
near  such  strong  wood  as  those  grafted  on  the 
crab ;  in  all  cases  in  planting  of  apples  be  care- 
ful not  to  plant  them  too  deep,  but  merely 
cover  the  roots  well. 

CULTIVATION    OF    STANDARD    APPLES. 

Par.  1 1 . — The  culture  of  standard  apples  is  so 
generally  known  in  this  country,  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  make  many  observations  ;  at  the  same 
time  a  few  may  not  be  considered  superfluous. 


24       CULTIVATION    OF    STANDARD   APPLES. 

In  the  first  place,  when  you  select  your  trees 
from  the  nursery,  be  careful  there  is  no  blemish 
on  the  stem  caused  by  the  canker  :  and  when 
orchards  are  planted  the  trees  should  stand  at 
least  sixteen  feet  apart,  but  distances  vary  in 
different  counties,  from  sixteen  to  forty  feet ;  I 
should  recommend  about  twenty  feet,  or 
twenty-five  if  the  land  is  very  good,  to  give 
room  for  the  under  crop,  and  as  there  is  no  fear 
in  future  of  the  trees  decaying  through  the 
canker,  it  would  be  better  than  planting  them 
nearer,  for  it  is  necessary  for  the  meadow  to 
have  a  free  current  of  air,  otherwise  it  would 
produce  a  poor  sour  pasturage. 

It  is  a  very  good  plan  to  plant  the  trees  three 
or  four  years  or  more  before  the  ground  is  laid 
down  for  grass,  for  keeping  the  ground  dug 
about  the  trees  while  young  greatly  encourages 
their  growth,  and  they  then  become  strong 
and  out  of  the  way  of  cattle. 

This  plan  is  often  adopted  by  hop  growers  to 
plant  their  trees  before  the  hop  grounds  are 
worn  out,  and  when  the  meadow  is  laid  down, 
there  is  at  once  a  fine  young  orchard  in  bear- 
ing without  further  trouble,  and  while  the  trees 
are  in  that  young  state  they  do  so  little  injury 
to  the  under  crops,  that  the  same  method  may 


PRUNING    OF    DWARF    APPLES.  25 

be  adopted  by  cropping  the  land  with  vegeta- 
bles or  corn,  but  not  too  near  the  tree,  for  any 
thing  of  strong  growth  i&  very  injurious ;  those 
who  plant  standards  in  gardens,  must  be  guided 
by  the  spots  they  can  best  select  to  plant  the 
trees  where  they  will  do  the  least  injury  to  the 
vegetable  crops. 

It  would  be  very  wrong  to  plant  standard 
apple  orchards  on  very  inferior  land,  and  on 
good  land  I  would  by  no  means  recommend  very 
large  holes,  for  the  ground  will  naturally  sink, 
thereby  causing  the  tree  to  be  considerably 
lower  than  it  ought,  which  is  very  injurious, 
particularly  if  sunk  below  the  graft,  at  the  same 
time  they  should  be  made  sufficiently  large  to 
let  the  roots  in  easily,  and  the  earth  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  hole  finely  loosened  full  one  foot 
deep  before  the  tree  is  put  in. 

PRUNING    OF    DWARF    APPLES. 

Par.  12.— The  pruning  of  apple  trees  is  a  most 
important  thing  to  attend  to,  and  to  understand, 
both  for  keeping  the  trees  in  a  healthy  state, 
and  likewise  for  the  production  of  fine  fruit, 
particularly  dwarfs,  of  which  I  shall  first  treat; 
I  mean  common  dwarfs  (called  by  some  dwarf 
standards)  and  not  dwarf  trained  trees 

It  is  necessary  to  commence  from  the  maiden 


26       PRUNING  OF  DWARF  APPLES. 

graft,  and  go  on  till  the  tree  is  in  a  state  of 
maturity,  in  order  to  render  the  process  as 
clear  as  possible. 

Suppose  your  maiden  tree  has  only  one  or 
two  shoots,  it  is  then  necessary  to  cut  them 
down  to  four  or  five  buds,  to  get  a  sufficiency  of 
wood  to  form  the  bottom  of  the  tree ;  the 
following  season  leave  about  five  of  the  most 
regular  shoots  which  will  be  quite  sufficient, 
or  even  four,  for  they  are  none  the  better  for 
being  crowded  with  limbs  from  the  stem. 

But  as  apples,  sometimes  the  first  year  after 
planting,  will  scarcely  make  any  growth,  they 
had  better  stand  one  year  after  planting  be- 
fore they  are  headed  down;  but  I  should 
prefer  those  trees  which  have  been  one  year 
headed  down  in  the  nursery,  having  enough 
shoots  to  form  the  bottom  of  the  tree  ;  I  should 
not  leave  more  than  six  shoots  at  the  outside, 
but  what  you  take  out,  take  out  clean,  and  be 
sure  not  to  leave  any  blemish,  nor  bruise  the 
.bark  with  the  knife,  for  that  part  of  the  tree 
the  insect  is  very  fond  of,  and  of  all  others,  it 
is  the  most  dangerous. 

I  here  beg  leave  to  differ  from  those  who  re- 
commend heading  down  dwarf  apple  trees, 
when  they  have  wood  sufficient  to  form  the 


PRUNING    OF    DWARF   APPLES.  27 

bottom  of  the  tree  ;  I  prefer  letting  it  remain, 
for,  as  the  new  wood  will  grow  but  little  the 
first  year,  the  shoots  will  swell  and  get  strong, 
and  if  it  is  a  good  bearer  will  form  bloom 
buds  all  up  these  young  shoots  :  this  perhaps, 
will  alarm  some  to  allow  the  tree  to  bear  so 
young,  but  it  must  be  remembered  that  the 
trees  while  young  will  produce  the  finest  fruit : 
besides  it  is  necessary  to  throw  them  into  bear- 
ing early,  to  keep  them  from  growing  too  luxu- 
riantly. It  is  useless  having  a  great  fruitless 
tree  covering  a  large  space  of  ground,  while  by 
proper  management  you  can  get  an  equal 
quantity  of  fruit  off  a  tree  half  the  size,  and 
that  fruit  finer,  and  the  tree  kept  sufficiently 
strong  and  in  perfect  health,  by  the  mode  of 
pruning  I  shall  adopt. 

Now  the  tree  having  stood  two  years  with- 
out being  headed  down  as  before  described,  it 
will  throw  out  some  young  side  shoots  towards 
the  top  of  the  original  shoots,  these  should  be 
cut  off  within  two  buds  of  the  bottom,  allow- 
ing the  original  shoots  to  grow  straight  up,  till 
they  get  to  the  height  you  wish  them,  say  five 
or  six  feet  or  higher,  then  cut  their  tops  off, 
and  keep  all  the  young  shoots  spurred  in  every 
year,  to  about  two  buds,  nearly  the  same  as 
you  would  a  red  currant  tree  ;  by  this  means 
it  will  throw  all  those  spurs  into  bloom  buds, 

c2 


28     PRUNING  OF  STANDARD  APPLES. 

and  I  have  seen  by  this  process,  the  trees  hang- 
ing from  bottom  to  top  with  apples  like  ropes 
of  onions  ;  and  by  pruning  away  all  that  su- 
perfluous wood,  the  fruit  receives  the  whole 
strength  and  nourishment  of  the  tree ;  and  be- 
sides by  this  method,  you  not  only  throw  your 
trees  into  bearing,  and  produce  more  fruit,  but 
they  have  the  advantage  of  the  sun,  so  essen- 
tial both  for  their  flavour  and  beauty;  the 
trouble  is  no  more  than  that  of  pruning  your 
currants  and  gooseberries,  and  surely  apples 
are  to  be  worth  as  much  attention. 

When  the  trees  begin  to  get  old,  you  may 
occasionally  leave  a  clean  young  shoot,  and  the 
following  year  remove  an  old  one,  and  by  so 
doing  you  will  keep  your  trees  in  a  young, 
healthy,  bearing  state. 

Dwarf  apples  on  the  small  Paradise  stock, 
may  (if  required)  be  kept  in  a  much  less  space 
than  those  described  above,  and  by  this  way 
of  pruning  the  trees  may  be  kept  perfectly 
free  from  the  canker.  See  Canker. 

PRUNING    OF    STANDARD    APPLES. 

Par.  13. — The  pruning  of  standard  apples 
has  for  many  years  past  been  attended  with 
very  dangerous  consequences,  on  account  of 
the  canker ;  for  where  the  tree  has  not  been 


PRUNING    OF    STANDARD    APPLES.  29 

cut  particularly  clean,  or  left  at  all  bruised, 
there  the  insect  would  be  sure  to  get  in,  and 
keep  wounding  the  tree  further  and  further, 
till  it  completely  ruined  it  ;  therefore,  in  all 
kinds  of  pruning,  you  ought  to  cut  very  smooth 
and  clean,  and  then  it  will  soon  heal  over,  but 
if  bruised  or  left  rough,  it  will  not. 

Although  I  am  going  to  introduce  a  cure  for 
the  canker,  it  is  necessary  to  give  the  above 
caution  in  pruning. 

Now,  having  selected  my  standards  with 
young  heads,  such  as  are  recommended  in  pa- 
ragraph the  seventh,  I  should  plant  them  with- 
out touching  their  heads  with  a  knife,  for  if 
you  cut  them  down,  and  they  do  not  break 
freely  the  first  year,  they  seldom  do  well  after ; 
but  if  the  head  is  not  cut,  and  the  tree  does  not 
grow  much  the  first  year,  it  will  get  strong, 
and  the  main  shoots  from  the  stem  will  get 
strong  likewise,  and  sooner  get  out  of  the  way 
of  cattle. 

But  where  you  plant  trees  that  have  been 
two  or  three  years  headed  down  in  the  nursery, 
it  is  necessary  to  cut  out  any  cross  shoots,  or 
where  two  shoots  are  close  together  to  take 
away  one,  for  although  they  might  not  injure- 


30  PRUNING    OF    STANDARD    APPLES. 

while  young,  they  would  when  they  grew  old, 
and  the  tree  not  grow  so  handsome, 

I  must  add  a  further  reason  for  not  cutting 
down  the  heads  of  fresh  planted  standard 
apples :  I  have  often  seen  them] when  they  have 
been  cut  down,  instead  of  making  fine  young 
heads,  throw  out  short  shoots  two  or  three 
inches  long,  and  those  (if  they  are  good 
bearers)  formed  into  bloom,  which  stagnates 
the  tree,  and  seldom  forms  a  good  head 
after. 

Standard  trees  planted,  and  their  heads  left 
in  this  state,  will  require  no  pruning  till  the 
trees  get  large  and  too  full  of  wood,  except  an 
occasional  cross  branch,  and  taking  out  all 
dead  pieces, 

But  old  trees  should  occasionally  be  thinned 
where  they  grow  too  thick  of  wood,  and  this 
should  be  performed  with  a  saw  where  the 
branches  are  large,  but  be  sure  to  saw  them 
off  without  splitting  or  injuring  the  bark,  and 
as  the  saw  will  leave  it  rough,  the  part  where 
it  has  been^  sawed  off  should  be  made  smooth 
with  a  sharp  knife,  otherwise  it  will  not  heal 
so  well  or  so  soon ;  but  I  shall  treat  further 
on  this  subject  under  the  head  of  Canker. 


PRUNING   OF    TRAINED    APPLES.  31 

PRUNING    OF    TRAINED    APPLES. 

Par.  14. — As  trained  apples  are  not  so  much 
in  request  since  the  introduction  of  common 
Dwarfs,  and  as  the  pruning  of  them  has  been 
so  fully  explained,  it  is  necessary  only  to  state 
after  the  tree  has  been  properly  trained  in  the 
nursery,  the  pruning  it  will  require,  will  be  si- 
milar to  the  pruning  and  management  of  Dwarf 
apples,  in  paragraph  the  twelfth. 

There  is  one  great  benefit  arising  from  trained 
apples ;  while  young  the  wind  has  not  the 
power  of  shaking  them  about  so  much,  and 
consequently  the  fruit  is  not  so  likely  to  fall ; 
likewise,  if  they  have  no  other  trees  to  shade 
them,  the  fruit  is  sure  to  receive  the  benefit  of 
the  sun. 

The  season  I  should  recommend  for  pruning 
apples,  is  from  the  middle  of  January  till  the 
middle  of  March;  some  will  prune  through 
April,  and  so  late  as  May ;  but  my  opinion  is 
by  causing  the  sap  to  flow,  and  the  tree  to 
bleed  too  freely  when  the  bloom  is  tender, 
often  causes  the  fruit  not  to  set  well. 

Another  thing  should  be  observed  in  pruning 
of  dwarf  and  trained  apple  trees :  there  are  some 


32  BUDDING    OF    APPLES. 

sorts  which  bear  principally  at  the  end  of  the 
young  shoots;  where  that  is  the  case,  you  should 
always  leave  plenty  of  the  young  one  year 
shoots  ;  for  want  of  a  knowledge  of  this  many 
fail  in  their  crops  on  trained  trees,  for  if  the 
bloom  is  cut  off  we  cannot  have  fruit  ;  this  is 
easily  discovered  by  leaving  those  sorts  you 
are  unacquainted  with  till  March,  before  you 
prune  them,  you  will  then  see  where  they  shew 
their  bloom,  and  the  tree  may  be  kept  free  by 
taking  away  old  wood  instead  of  young. 

BUDDING    OF    APPLES. 

Par.  15. — Budding  of  apples  some  years 
back,  was  much  more  practised  than  at  the 
present  day,  although  in  some  nurseries  in  the 
country,  it  is  still  continued,  and,  of  course 
they  think  it  best :  but  I  will  here  give  my 
reasons  for  not  approving  of  the  general  prac- 
tice of  budding  apples. 

The  argument  of  those  who  approve  of  bud- 
ding apples  is,  they  generally  grow  taller  for 
standards  the  first  summer,  there  being  but 
one  shoot  for  the  stock  to  support :  granted  ; 
but  this  is  often  the  cause  of  crooked,  weak, 
stemmed  trees,  for  having  run  up  so  tall,  they 
frequently  throw  out  shoots  at  the  top  the 
following  summer,  which  are  often  too  heavy 


DESCRIPTION    OF    BUDDING.  33 

for  the  stem  to  support,  and  they  consequently 
bend  down  and  grow  crooked. 

Another  very  great  objection  to  budding 
apples  is  the  canker,  for  buds  are  generally 
untied  late  in  summer,  and  there  is  naturally  a 
wound  in  the  stock,  which  the  most  scientific 
budder  cannot  prevent ;  and  this  is  the  season 
of  the  year,  of  all  others  the  most  dangerous, 
for  the  insect  is  fond  of  a  wound  where  they 
can  enter  for  their  winter  quarters,  and  that 
spot  of  all  others  is  the  most  dangerous  in  the 
tree  for  the  canker  to  take  place. 

But  although  I  do  not  recommend  it  generally, 
sometimes  it  is  necessary :  if  you  wish  to  make 
the  most  of  a  cutting,  or  it  might  happen  you 
would  be  able  to  get  a  cutting  of  some  fa- 
vourite sort  at  the  budding  season,  and  could 
not  at  the  grafting  season.  I  will,  therefore, 
give  as  clear  a  description  of  budding,  as  can 
be  given  in  writing,  which  will  serve  not  only 
for  budding  apples,  but  all  other  fruits. 

DESCRIPTION    OF    BUDDING. 

Par.  16.- — Budding  is  an  art  which  requires 
long  practice,  and  close  attention,  to  arrive  at 
perfection  in ;  indeed  most  authors  have  said, 
it  is  impossible  to  convey  an  accurate  idea  to 


34  DESCRIPTION    OF    BUDDING. 

the  reader,  but  I  will  endeavour  to  state  it  so- 
plain,  that  I  think  with  attention  it  may  be  of 
service. 

The  budding  of  apples  is  what  we  now  have- 
before  us  ;  in  the  first  place,  it  is  necessary  to 
attend  to  the  state  of  the  stocks  you  intend  to 
bud,  for  some  seasons  are  much  earlier  than? 
others,  and  some  soils  will  cause  the  stocks, 
either  Crabs  or  Paradise,  to  grow  much  longer 
than  others ;  and  in  budding  of  all  kinds  of 
fruit  trees,  it  is  very  necessary  to  bud  them  be- 
fore the  stocks  have  stopped  growing. 

Generally  the  best  time  for  apples,  is  late  in 
August,  but  this  must  entirely  depend  on  the 
state  of  the  stocks,  or  trees,  which  you  intend 
to  bud. 

The  stocks  being  ready,  you  should  endea- 
vour to  get  your  cuttings  (which  must  be  of 
the  same  summer's  growth)  as  firm  and  ripe  as 
you  can,  and  having  prepared  some  strong  new 
matting  for  the  purpose,  you  proceed  to  bud- 
cling. 

After  cutting  the  leaves  off  the  cutting  or 
scion,  cut  off  the  top  likewise,  as  low  down  as 
it  is  soft  and  too  green,  then  with  your  budding 


DESCRIPTION    OF    BUDDINO.  35 

knife  which  must  have  a  very  keen  edge,  take 
off  the  top  bud  from  the  scion,  commencing 
with  your  knife  about  an  inch  below  the  bud, 
then  hold  the  bud  firm  between  your  thumb  and 
finger,  and  take  out  the  piece  of  wood  the  re- 
verse way  of  the  bud,  leaving  nothing  but  the 
rind,  this  must  be  done  clean  without  leaving 
it  any  way  ragged ;  you  then  look,  (and  in  this 
it  is  necessary  to  be  very  particular,)  to  see  if 
taking  out  the  wood  has  injured  the  bud,  which 
it  will  do  in  various  ways  ;  sometimes  it  will 
draw  all  the  centre  of  the  bud  out,  which  ren- 
ders the  bud  of  no  use  whatever  ;  sometimes  it 
will  leave  the  bud  very  hollow ;  in  that  case  they 
are  doubtful ;  therefore  if  you  are  not  short  of 
cuttings  do  not  make  use  of  one  bud  unless  it  is 
quite  plump  and  level  with  the  inside  rind,  and 
then  you  may  almost  make  a  certainty  of  its 
growing ;  on  the  contrary,  you  cannot  depend 
on  them,  for  they  will  often  keep  alive  to  all 
appearance  even  through  the  winter,  but  will 
not  shoot  in  spring ;  in  fact,  this  is  one  of  the 
most  nice  points  in  budding;  having  your 
bud  ready,  you  next  proceed  to  open  the  in- 
cision in  the  stock  or  tree  ;  the  incision  is  made 
nearly  in  the  form  of  a  letter  T,  cutting  through 
the  rind  first  at  the  top  about  halfway  round  the 
stock,  then  commencing  with  your  knife  about 
two  inches  lower  down,  draw  your  knife  up 


36     HEADING    STOCKS    WHICH    ARE    BUDDED. 

to  the  cut  at  the  top,  and  before  you  take  your 
knife  out,  gently  open  the  rind  on  one  side, 
which  will  let  in  the  handle  of  your  budding 
knife,  then  open  the  incision  so  that  it  will 
let  in  the  bud  to  the  bottom,  and  cut  off  what 
may  remain  too  long  for  the  incision ;  tie  the 
bud  tight  round  with  some  strong  matting,  ob- 
serving that  you  do  not  let  the  bass  go  at  all 
over  the  bud,  for  that  is  sure  death ;  give  it  a 
tight  hitch  to  fasten  off  and  the  budding  is 
finished. 

UNTYING    OF    BUDS. 

Par.  17. — When  the  stocks  or  trees  have 
been  budded  about  six  weeks,  it  is  necessary  to 
untie  the  bass  from  them  ;  it  is  the  practice  of 
some  to  tie  them  again,  but  this  is  quite  unne- 
cessary, except  where  they  have  been  budded 
in  very  free  growing  young  wood,  but  even 
then  if  the  bass  is  not  tied  too  tight,they  need 
not  be,  or  at  least  very  seldom,  tied  again. 

HEADING    DOWN  STOCKS    WHICH    ARE    BUDDED. 

Par  18. — The  heading  down  of  stocks  or  trees 
which  have  been  budded  is  the  next  process  ; 
they  should  be  cut  off  about  four  inches 
above  the  bud;  this  may  bed  one  any  time  after 
Christmas,  but  about  the  end  of  February  is  a 
good  time ;  they  are  not  so  well  to  be  left 


TYING    AND    SUCKERING    OF    BUDS.          37 

much  later  in  the  season,  otherwise  the  bud  is 
apt  to  go  blind,  through  the  sap  rising  more  up 
into  the  head  of  the  stock  or  tree. 

A 

TYING    AND    SUCKERING    OF    BUDS. 

Par.  19. — The  next  thing  is  the  tying  and 
suckering  of  buds;  it  is  necessary  when  the 
suckers  shoot  out  from  the  stocks  to  cut  them 
clean  off,  in  order  to  give  the  bud  all  the  en- 
couragement you  can,  and  when  the  bud  has 
grown  fpur  or  five  inches  long,  tie  it  gently  up 
to  the  piece  of  the  stock  which  is  left  above 
the  bud,  but  be  sure  to  leave  a  sufficient  space 
between  the  bud  and  the  stock  for  the  bud  to 
swell,  after  this  you  have  no  further  trouble 
with  them,  except  keeping  them  free  from 
suckers  till  they  want  snagging,  for  which  see 
snagging,  Paragraph  4. 

OBSERVATIONS      BEFORE       THE       EXPLANATORY 
LIST    OF    SORTS. 

Par.  20.— Having  given  all  the  necessary 
information  for  the  cultivation,  pruning,  and 
general  management  of  apple  trees,  I  shall  next 
furnish  the  reader  with  an  explanatory  list  of 
sorts,  giving  each  their  true  character. 


38 


EXPLANATORY  LIST  OF  SORTS. 

TABLE    OR    DESERT    APPLES, 

Par.  21. — Ribston  Pippin ;  this  is  one  of  the 
most  celebrated  apples  in  cultivation,  it  is  ripe 
in  October,  and  in  the  months  of  November 
and  December,  it  is  considered  by  most  supe- 
rior in  flavour  to  any  apple  at  that  season ;  its 
bloom  is  simple  and  by  no  means  showy  for  the 
shrubbery  ;  it  is  a  general  bearer,  but  will  not 
keep  late,  for  if  the  fruit  does  not  rot,  it  will 
lose  its  juices  and  become  insipid.  It  will  also 
make  excellent  sauce,  but  it  is  generally  recom- 
mended as  one  of  the  best  table  apples. 

Par.  22. — Court  of  "Wyck  Pippin  ;  this  is  a 
very  handsome  small  table,  apple ;  it  is  said  to 
be  a  seedling  from  the  old  golden  pippin ;  it 
ripens  in  October,  is  a  good  bearer,  and  will 
keep  through  the  winter. 

Par.  23.— Scarlet  Nonpareil;  this  is  a  very 
choice  table  apple,  in  high  perfection  at  Christ- 
mas, at  which  season  it  is  not  excelled  by  any 
apple  for  beauty  and  flavour ;  it  is  rather  larger 
than  the  old  nonpareil,  of  very  handsome  form* 
and  if  the  fruit  stands  open  to  the  sun,  it  will 
turn  of  a  beautiful  scarlet ;  it  produces  a  prodigi- 
ous quantity  of  bloom,  and  generally  bears 
well. 


EXPLANATORY  LIST  OF  SORTS.  39 

Par.  24.— Old  Nonpareil;  this  is  an  apple 
too  well  known  to  require  much  explanation 
or  recommendation ;  it  is  a  fine  keeping  table 
fruit. 

Par.  25. — Downton  Pippin  ;  this  is  one  of 
the  productions  of  Mr.  Knight,  of  Downton 
Castle,  and  President  of  the  Horticultural  So- 
ciety ;  it  is  a  very  handsome  small  yellow  ap- 
ple, very  full  of  juice,  of  rather  a  tart  flavour  ;  it 
is  a  great  bearer  and  in  high  perfection  in  the 
autumn. 

Par.  26. — Sykehouse;  this  is  a  small  firm 
table  apple  of  a  russet  colour,  handsome  form, 
and  equal,  from  Christmas  till  May,  to  the  old 
nonpareil ;  it  is  a  very  great  bearer. 

We  have  not  a  better  keeping  table  apple 
in  England. 

Par.  27. — Yellow  Ingestry  Pippin  ;  this  is  a 
very  handsome  small  yellow  table  fruit,  a  good 
bearer,  and  is  in  perfection  about  October. 

Par.  28. — Hicks  Fancy  ;  this  is  a  most  deli- 
cious desert  apple,  of  small  size,  a  very  great 
bearer,  and  will  keep;  but  it  is  best  before 
Christmas. 


40  EXPLANATORY  LIST  OF    SORTS.  N 

Par  29. — Old  Golden  Pippin ;  this  apple  as 
a  table  fruit,  is  decidedly  one  of  the  best  in  this 
country ;  although  there  are  many  apples  far  su- 
perior to  it  in  flavour  before  Christmas :  it  is  not 
excelled  by  any  after,  and  consequently  at  a  sea- 
son when  most  of  our  finest  table  apples  are  gone 
by.  I  cannot  pass  over  this  fruit  without  making 
a  few  observations,  knowing  an  impression  has 
been  made  on  some  gentlemen,  that  the  Golden 
Pippin  is  entirely  wearing  out,  and  there- 
fore useless  to  cultivate  it  ;  in  this  I  must  beg 
leave  to  differ:  from  my  great  practice  among 
apples,  I  am  satisfied  they  are  to  be  kept  in  as 
flourishing  a  state  as  ever  they  were,  for  the  cause 
of  its  early  decay  is  entirely  from  the  canker, 
which  is  the  case  with  most  sorts  of  weak 
growth,  but  the  Golden  Pippin  is  one  of  the  in- 
sect's greatest  favourites ;  therefore  by  keeping 
the  body  of  the  trees  sound,  you  may  depend 
on  your  Golden  Pippins  flourishing  as  well  as 
ever. 

Par.  30. — Franklin's  Golden  Pippin  ;  this  is 
a  very  good  juicy  table  apple,  a  good  bearer 
and  will  keep  in  high  perfection  in  November. 

Par.  31. — Oslin;  the  true  Oslin  is  a  very 
early  summer  apple  of  a  spicy  flavour,  and  by 
many  very  much  admired  ;  the  bloom  is  also 
very  handsome  for  the  shrubbery. 


EXPLANATORY  LIST  OF  SORTS.  41 

Par.  32. — Scarlet  Pearmain ;  this  is  a  hand- 
some table  apple  of  a  fine  scarlet  colour,  full  of 
fine  sweet  juice,  and  a  great  bearer;  ripens 
early  in  the  autumn,  and  will  keep  through  the 
winter. 

Par.  33. — Royal  Pearmain ;  this  apple  is 
very  handsomely  formed,  of  rather  a  russet  red 
colour,  and  a  good  size  for  the  table,  the  flavour 
is  very  fine,  and  it  is  generally  a  good  bearer ; 
it  ripens  in  September,  but  soon  becomes  mealy 
after  it  is  gathered. 

Par.  34.  —  Margaret  Apple ;  this  is  a  good 
summer  apple  of  a  red  colour,  with  a  little  rus- 
set towards  the  eye ;  it  is  a  good  bearer  and 
ripens  in  August. 

Par.  35 — Kirke's  Duchess  of  Oldenburgh  ; 
this  is  a  table  apple  of  a  tolerable  size ;  it  is  rather 
a  flat  form  ;  the  ground  of  the  fruit  when  ripe 
is  a  greenish  yellow,  beautifully  pencilled  with 
pink  and  red ;  it  is  full  of  fine  sweet  juice,  and 
may  be  fairly  called  one  of  our  best  summer 
table  apples. 

Par.  36.— Kirke's  Golden  Reinet ;  this  is  a 
very  handsome  table  apple  of  a  golden  russet 


42  EXPLANATORY    LIST    OF    SORTS. 

colour,  and  a  fine  red  next  the  sun;  the  flavour 
is  very  fine ;  it  ripens  about  October,  and  is 
good  till  after  Christmas. 

Par.  37. — King  of  the  Pippins ;  this  apple 
ripens  late  in  the  summer,  and  to  eat  it  from 
the  tree  it  is  equal  in  flavour  to  any  at  that 
season ;  but  a  few  days  after  it  is  gathered  it 
looses  its  flavour,  or  at  least  is  very  materially 
diminished. 

Par.  38. — Wellington  Apple  ;  this  is  a  very 
handsome  keeping  table  fruit,  and  deserves  to 
be  brought  into  general  cultivation  ;  the  fruit 
is  of  a  pale  green  ground,  of  a  beautiful  pale 
red  or  rather  pink  next  the  sun,  and  is  a  great 
addition  to  the  deserts  at,  and  after  Christmas. 

Par.  39. — Kerry  Pippin ;  this  is  a  much  ad- 
mired summer  table  apple,  and  is  a  good  bearer. 

Par.  40. —Wheeler's  Russet;  this  apple, 
as  a  table  fruk,  deserves  the  highest  character ; 
it  is  rather  larger  than  the  old  nonpareil,  much 
like  it  in  appearance  and  flavour ;  it  is  a  great 
bearer,  and  will  keep  till  May. 

Par.  41.— Powell's  Russet  is  a  most  excel- 


EXPLANATORY  LIST  OF  SORTS.  43 

lent  table  apple;  it  is  smaller  than  Wheeler's, 
very  fine  flavour,  a  great  bearer,  and  will  keep 
through  the  winter. 

Par.  42. — Devonshire  Whitesour  ;  this  is  a 
very  early  summer  table  apple,  of  a  whitish  yel- 
low colour  ;  it  has  fine  melting  flesh,  with  very 
rich  juice ;  it  is  a  good  bearer,  and  is  greatly 
admired. 

Par.  43. — Margell  is  a  table  apple,  in  flavour 
much  like  the  Ribston  Pippin,  but  does  not 
grow  so  large;  it  is  a  great  bearer,  and  will 
keep  till  spring. 

Par.  44.  —  Christy's  Pippin;  this  is  an 
apple  not  much  known  at  present ;  it  is  one  of 
the  best  table  apples  among  the  new  varieties-; 
in  form  much  like  the  Nonsuch,  firm  and  juicy, 
of  a  greenish  colour,  fine  flavoured,  is  a  very 
great  bearer,  and  will  keep  through  the  winter/ 

APPLES  FOR  CULINARY  PURPOSES. 

Par.  45. — -Beauty  of  Kent;  this  is  one  of 
the  largest  apples  in  cultivation ;  it  is  a  most 
excellent  apple  for  sauce,  looks  very  handsome 
on  the  trees,  is  a  great  bearer,  and  will  keep. 

Par.    46.  —  Kirke's    Emperor    Alexander ; 


44  EXPLANATORY  LIST  OF  SORTS. 

this  is  a  fine  sauce  apple,  and  is  decidedly  the 
most  beautiful  apple  grown.  I  have  known 
them  measure  sixteen  inches  round ;  and  al- 
though they  grow  so  large,  they  seldom  fall 
from  the  trees  if  sound  ;  it  is  a  good  bearer, 
ripe  late  in  October,  and  will  keep  till  Christ- 
mas. 

Par.  47. — Keswick  Codlin  is  a  large  yellow 
apple,  and  one  of  the  greatest  bearers  we  have. 
This  is  well  adapted  for  small  gardens,  for  it  is 
a  long  time  before  it  gets  large  through  its 
great  bearing;  it  ripens  in  September,  but  will 
not  keep  long  after  they  are  gathered. 

Par.  48. — Luccumb's  Seedling,  is  a  great 
bearer,  of  a  greenish  yellow  striped  with  red, 
will  grow  large  ;  it  is  a  very  good  sauce  apple, 
and  will  keep  through  the  winter. 

Par.  49. — Northern  Greening;  this  is  a  most 
desirable  apple  to  plant,  it  is  a  firm  green  fruit, 
a  very  great  bearer,  and  will  keep  sound  till 
spring. 

Par.  50. — Kirke's  Scarlet  Admirable  ;  this 
is  a  very  fine  large  sauce  apple,  of  a  beautiful 
scarlet  next  the  sun;  is  generally  a  good  bearer, 
and  will  keep. 


EXPLANATORY  LIST  OF  SORTS.  45 

Par.  51. — Royal  Russet;  this  is  a  well 
known  good  keeping  sauce  apple. 

Par.  52. — Cockagee;  this  apple,  which  is 
so  celebrated  for  cider,  I  have  merely  recom- 
mended for  kitchen  use,  on  account  of  its  fine 
acid  for  being  mixed  with  other  apples  in  the 
tart  or  pudding — it  answers  the  purpose  of  the 
Quince. 

Par.  53.— Shepherd's  Newington;  this  is  a 
fine  large  juicy  sauce  apple,  and  is  a  great  bearer. 

Par.  54.  —  Striped  Holland  Pippin;  this 
would  be  very  handsome  in  the  shrubbery,  for 
the  bloom  which  comes  out  early  is  extremely 
beautiful ;  it  is  a  good  bearer  and  a  very  good 
apple. 

Par.  55. — Dutch  Codlin  ;  although  I  cannot 
recommend  this  as  a  general  bearer,  the  fruit 
is  so  fine,  and  the  bloom  so  beautiful  it  deserves 
a  place  amongst  a  collection. 

Par.  56.  —  Kentish  Codlin;  this  is  a  very 
good  bearer,  not  so  large  as  the  Dutch  Codlin, 
but  is  a  very  good  sauce  apple. 

Par.  57. — Norfolk  Storing;  this  apple  will 


46  EXPLANATORY   LIST  OF  SORTS. 

keep  well  through  the  winter,  and  is  good  for 
sauce  when  most  others  are  gone  by ;  it  is  ge- 
nerally a  good  bearer. 

Par.  58. — Norfolk  Beefin ;  this  is  a  well- 
known  long  keeping  apple,  of  a  dullish  red 
colour,  it  is  famed  for  baking,  and  is  good  for 
all  culinary  purposes.  This  apple  will  keep 
good  till  August,  and  is  a  general  bearer. 

Par.  59. — Lemon  Pippin ;  this  is  a  very  good 
sauce  apple,  of  a  yellow  colour,  is  a  good  bearer, 
and  will  keep  till  March. 

Par.  60. — Loan's  Pearmain,  is  an  excellent 
sauce  apple,  is  a  good  bearer,  and  will  keep. 

APPLES  FOR  DESERT  OR  CULINARY  PURPOSES. 

Par.  61. — Hawthorne  Dean;  this  apple,  for 
the  beauty  of  its  bloom,  the  beauty  of  its  fruit, 
its  fine  flavour  when  in  season,  together  with 
its  wonderful  bearing,  surpasses  every  apple 
now  in  cultivation :  if  the  trees  stand  where 
they  can  have  the  benefit  of  the  sun  they 
look  as  handsome  as  a  beautiful  peach ; 
the  fruit  is  handsomely  formed,  of  a  whitish 
yellow  ground,  and  a  brilliant  pink  next  the 
sun ;  they  are  very  full  of  juice,  and  the  fla- 


EXPLANATORY  LIST  OF  SORTS.  47 

vour  universally  admired  while  in  season;  it 
is  generally  in  perfection  through  the  month 
of  September,  although  they  are  used  much 
earlier,  and  till  the  end  of  October.  If  this 
apple  would  keep  there  would  not  be  such  an 
apple  in  cultivation,  for  many  of  them  grow 
large  for  kitchen  purposes,  while  the  small 
ones  produce  a  beautiful  and  delicious  fruit  for 
the  desert,  and  it  is  thought  by  many  it  would 
make  fine  cider :  but  to  have  this  fruit  hand- 
some it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  plant  the 
trees  where  the  fruit  will  receive  the  sun, 
otherwise  it  will  be  of  a  pale  colour.  I  know 
of  no  plant  or  shrub  in  cultivation  that  would 
adorn  the  shrubbery  more  than  this  tree,  for 
the  bloom  is  extremely  handsome  in  the  spring, 
and  in  the  summer  the  fruit  would  not  be 
passed  without  being  admired. 

Par.  62. — Hertfordshire  Pearmain;  this  is  an 
exceedingly  fine  apple  for  winter,  it  is  rather  of 
a  red  russet  colour,  the  small  ones  are  handsome 
for  the  table,  having  a  very  fine  flavour ;  the 
large  ones  are  most  excellent  for  kitchen  pur- 
poses. 

Par.  63. — Kirke's  Lord  Nelson ;  this  apple 
is  one  of  Mr.  Kirke's  finest  productions,  it  is  a 
great  bearer,  and  very  handsome;  good  for 


48  EXPLANATORY    LIST    OF    SORTS. 

table  or  sauce,  is  in  perfection  in  October,  and 
will  keep  till  Spring. 

Par.  64. — French  Crab,  called  by  some  the 
everlasting  pippin ;  this  is  a  very  firm  green 
apple,  it  is  good  for  culinary  purposes  through 
winter,  and  in  spring  is  a  very  fine  table  fruit ; 
it  will  keep  good  till  the  early  summer  apples 
come  in,  and  may  be  considered  one  of  the 
most  useful  apples  in  cultivation :  it  might 
be  grown  in  the  country  to  very  great  ad- 
vantage for  the  London  markets,  for  they  are 
so  firm  they  will  not  bruise  like  other  apples, 
and  in  the  spring  they  always  fetch  a  great 
price. 

Par.  65. — Nonsuch ;  this  well  known  apple 
deserves  cultivation,  it  is  a  great  bearer  and 
very  good  for  kitchen  purposes  ;  and  for  those 
who  are  fond  of  a  sharp  juicy  apple,  they  will 
do  for  the  desert ;  it  ripens  late  in  summer, 
but  will  not  retain  its  flavour  long  after  it  is 
gathered. 

Par.  66. — Norfolk  Paradise  ;  this  is  a  hand- 
some apple  for  table,  and  very  good  for  sauce ; 
it  will  keep  through  the  winter. 

Par.  67. — Woodstock,  or  Blenheim  Pippin  ; 


EXPLANATORY    LIST   OF    SORTS.  49 

this  apple  was  produced  at  Woodstock,  the 
seat  of  the  Duke  of  Maryborough  ;  it  is  a  most 
excellent  apple  for  all  purposes;  it  ripens  in 
October,  and  will  keep  good  some  time. 

Par.  68. — Mank's  Codlin;  this  is  one  of  the 
greatest  bearers  we  have;  the  fruit  is  hand- 
somely formed,  of  a  pale  yellow  colour,  and 
where  the  sun  can  get  at  them  they  turn  of  a 
beautiful  pale  pink  ;  it  is  full  of  fine  rich  juice, 
and  good  for  all  purposes ;  the  bloom  is  not 
excelled  by  any ;  it  is  nearly  as  handsome  as  a 
rose  ;  it  is  further  to  be  recommended  to  plant 
as  dwarfs  in  the  shrubbery,  for  its  great  bloom- 
ing and  bearing  prevents  its  growing  so  large 
as  many  sorts ;  it  is  in  perfection  about  Sep- 
tember, but  will  not  keep  long. 

Par.  69. — Pile's  Russet;  this  is  an  old,  well 
known  excellent  keeping  apple,  and  good  for 
all  purposes. 

Par  70. — Braddick's  Nonpareil ;  this  apple, 
which  is  rather  new  and  not  much  known,  de- 
serves to  be  recommended ;  it  partakes  much 
of  the  old  nonpareil  in  flavour,  but  is  an  earlier 
apple  :  it  is  nearly  of  a  russet  colour,  fine  melt- 
ing flesh,  and  full  of  rich  juice  ;  some  of  them 
grow  a  tolerable  size,  which  will  do  for  culi- 
D 


50  OBSERVATIONS. 

nary  purposes,  and  the  small  ones  afford  a  fine 
dessert ;  it  is  in  perfection  about  November,  and 
will  keep  and  retain  its  juices ;  it  is  a  great 
bearer. 

OBSERVATIONS. 

Par.  71. — I  have  now  furnished  my  readers 
with  a  collection  of  the  best  sorts  of  apples 
now  in  cultivation,  for  the  different  purposes  as 
described  in  the  character  of  each  apple.  Al- 
though there  are  more  very  good  apples,  there 
are  a  great  many  not  worth  recommending;  in- 
deed, there  are  some  I  could  mention  superior 
to  some  of  those  in  the  list,  but  what  a  disap- 
pointment it  is  when  your  crops  continually  fail ! 
Some  may  say,  why  leave  out  such  and  such 
a  sort,  where  it  may  probably  be  a  favourite  ? 
but  there  is  such  a  confusion  in  the  names  of 
apples,  that  it  is  very  likely  to  be  in  this  list 
under  another  name,  for  there  are  several 
among  them  I  know  to  have  three  or  four  dif- 
ferent names  :  but  these  are  properly  named  as 
known  by  the  Horticultural  Society,  and  the 
principal  nurserymen  round  London. 

Some  may  think,  if  they  see  a  tree  full  of 
fruit  it  must*  be  a  good  bearer,  but  I  have 
known  some  of  the  most  shy  bearers  (by 
chance)  produce  a  fine  crop ;  it  is  therefore 


ALPHABETICAL   LIST   OF    APPLES.  51 

necessary  to  watch  its  general  bearing  :  such 
fruits  as  I  have  described  here  I  have  tho- 
roughly tried,  and  chosen  them  from  a  very 
large  collection ;  I  can  therefore  recommend 
them  with  confidence.  I  should  also  wish  it 
to  be  understood,  that  fruit  will  not  ripen  at  the 
same  time  every  year;  in  1822  fruit  generally 
was  three  weeks  earlier  than  in  1823,  neither 
will  apples  keep  so  well  some  seasons  as 
others.  I  have  mentioned  the  time  of  ripening 
as  that  of  our  usual  summers. 

To  confuse  the  reader  with  an  explanatory 
list  of  other  sorts  for  the  above  purposes,  would 
be  useless,  and  render  it  difficult  to  choose ;  but 
as  there  are  other  very  good  apples,  and  every 
one  have  their  favourites,  I  will  give  an  alpha- 
betical list  of 'names  of  those  sorts  now  gene- 
rally cultivated. 

ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  APPLES, 

NOW  IN  GENERAL  CULTIVATION. 
TJwse  marked  with  an  asterisk  (*)  are  described  in 

the  explanatory  list. 
Par.  72.- 

Aromatic  Russet  Boatswain's  Pippin 

AshmeacTs  Kernel  Biggs^  Nonsuch 

*Beauty  of  Kent  Barcelona  Pearoiain 

Beauty  of  Wilts  BenwelFs  Pearmain 

*Braddick's  Nonpareil  Bedfordshire  Foundling 

D   2 


ALPHABETICAL    LIST    OF    APPLES. 


*Court  of  Wyck  Pippin 

Crofton  Apple 

Cockle  Pippin 

Tostard  Apple 
*Cockagee 
*Cristy's  Pippin 

Carlisle  Codlin 

C  irnish  Aromatic 

Cobham  Apple 
*Downton  Pippin 
*Dutch  Codlin 
*Duchess  of  Oldenburgh 

*  Devonshire  Whitesour 
Duke  of  Beaufort's  Pippin 

*Eniperor  Alexander 

Embroidered  Pippin 

Flower  of  Kent 
*Franklm's  Golden  Pippin 
*French  Crab 

Foxley  Pippin 

Farleigh  Pippin 

Feartf  s  Pippin 

Formuse  Apple 

Fall  Pippin 

*  Golden  Pippin 
*Golden  Rennet 

Gibbon's  Russet 
Golden  Russet 
Gough  Apple 
Grange  Apple 
Gray  Leadington 
Golden  Harvey  or  Brandy 
Apple 


General  Wolf 
'Hawthorne  Dean 
^Hertfordshire  Pearmain 
*Hick's  Fancy 

Hughes'  Golden  Pippin 

Holland  Pippin 

Hall  Door 

Hunt's  Royal  Red 
*Keswick  Codlin 

Kirke's  Golden  Pippin 

Kirke's  Incomparable 
*King  of  the  Pippins 
*Kerry  Pippin 
*Kirke's  Lord  Nelson 
*Kentish  Codlin 

Kentish  Fillbasket 
*Luccomb\s  Seedling 
*Lemon  Pippin 
*  Loans'  Pearmain 

Lewis'  Gilly  Flower 
*Manks    Codlin    or    Irish 

Pitcher 
*Margaret  Apple 

Marmalade  Pipjaft 
*Margil 

Minchin  Crab 

Memmel  Pippin 
*Norfolk  Storing 
*Norfolk  Beefin 
*Norfolk  Paradise 
*Nonpareil 

New  Town  Pippin 
^Northern  Greening 


CIDER    APPLES. 


53 


*Nonsuch 
*Oslin 

Orange  Pippin 

Ord  Apple 

Potter's  Apple 

Pidgeon's  Heart  or  Arabian 
Apple 

Pedley's  Pippin 
*Piles  Russet 

Peach  Apple 

Pomgree 
*Powell's  Russet 

Quince  Apple  4, 

*Ribston  Pippin 
*Royal  Pearmain 

Royal  Corpendue 

Red  Quarentine 
*Royal  Russet 

Ridding's  Nonpareil 

Red  Ingestry  Pippin 

Red  Juneting 
*  Scarlet  Nonpareil 
*Sykehouse 

Scartet  Crab 

Siberian  Crab 


Siberian  Harvey 
Sops  of  Wine 
Sellswood  Rennet 
*Scarlet  Pearmain 
Scarlet  Queening 
Southampton  Pippin 

*  Scarlet  Admirable 

*  Shepherd's  Newington 
Stubbard  Apple 

*  Striped  Holland  Pippin 
Spring  Grove  Codlin 
Sandy's  Russet 
Transparent  Crab 

*  Wood  stock  or  Blenheim 

Pippin 

*White  Juneting 
*Wellington  Apple 
Wormsley  Pippin 

*  Wheeler's  Russet 
Winter  Pearmain 
Wyken  Apple 
White  Lilly 
Yorkshire  Greening 

*Yellow  Ingestry  Pippin 


CIDER    APPLES. 

Par.  73.—  As  it  is  now  become  a  question 
whether  our  old  cider  fruits  are  not  going  to 
decay  from  old  age,  it  is  necessary  to  say  some- 
thing on  the  subject. 


54  CIDER   APPLES. 

I  have  no  doubt  but  many,  where  they  have 
not  had  sufficient  practice,  will  differ  with  me, 
but  having  for  many  years  had  thousands,  and 
tens  of  thousands,  continually  under  my  imme- 
diate care  and  notice,  it  has  given  me  an  op- 
portunity of  becoming  thoroughly  acquainted 
with  the  constitution  of  the  apple  tree  ;  and  I 
am  confident  it  is  nothing  but  bad  manage- 
ment and  ill  treatment  which  is  the  cause  of  the 
general  decay  of  our  apple  trees,  and  principally, 
from  want  of  proper  attention  to  the  canker, 
which  is  caused  by  the  American  blight. 
This  is  quite  evident  from  all  our  new  sorts 
becoming  affected  by  it,  as  well  as  the  Golden 
Pippin,  and  our  other  fine  old  cider  fruits. 
To  conclude,  I  am  convinced  so  long  ~s  Eliglisn 
oak  is  known  to  flourish  in  England,  so  long 
by  proper  management,  may  our  old  Golden 
Pippins  be  known  to  flourish,  as  well  as  they 
did  fifty  years  back ;  I  will  therefore  give  a 
list  of  some  of  the  esteemed  old  sorts,  with  a 
list  of  others  which  are  now  generally  approved 
of  for  cider. 

Old  Golden  Pippin  Wood  Cock 

Fox  Whelp  Forest  Stire 

Herefordshire  Redstreak  Old  Queening 

Orange  Pippin  Bennet  Apple 

Red  Musk  Friar 

Hagloe  Crab  Yellow  Elliott 


CULTIVATION    OF    CIDER    APPLES.  55 

NEW    CIDER    APPLES. 

Court  of  Wyck  Pippin  Kirke's  Lord  Nelson 

Foxley  Apple  Kirke's  Seedling  Golden 
Downton  Pippin  Pippin 

Stead's  Kernel  Franklin's  Golden  Pippin 

Cockagee  Kirke's  Golden  Rennet 

If  I  were  going  to  plant  apples,  purposely  for 
cider,  I  should  confine  myself  to  a  few  sorts ; 
for  if  we  have  those  sorts  which  are  good,  and 
good  bearers,  what  can  we  wish  more?  I  should 
therefore  recommend  the  following : — 

Court  of  Wyck  Pippin  Kirke's  Lord  Nelson 

Foxley  Apple  Kirke's   Seedling  Golden 

JJownton  Pippin  Pippin 

Cockagee  Franklin's  Golden  Pippin 

The  most  favourite  cider  apple  now  in  culti- 
vation is  the  cockagee ;  I  am  informed  by  some 
of  our  principal  cider  merchants  it  is  decidedly 
the  best  for  bottleing,  and  will  bring  the 
greatest  price ;  therefore,  as  this  apple  is  a  good 
bearer,  and  a  free  grower,  it  would  be  the 
most  profitable  of  any  to  plant  for  cider. 

Kirke's  Lord  Nelson,  is  not  much  known  at 
present  as  a  cider  fruit,  but  this  apple,  which 
is  a  good  bearer,  produces  a  large  quantity  of 


56        PRODUCING    NEW    KINDS    OF    APPLES. 

fine  astringent  saccharine  juice,  and   makes  a 
most  excellent  cider  to  drink  from  the  cask. 

List  of  apples  from  one  to  twelve  sorts  recom- 
mended for  small  gardens. 

par.  74._ 

1  Hawthorn  Dean  7  Manks  Codlm 

2  Ribston  Pippin  8  Scarlet  Nonpareil 

3  Kirke's  Lord  Nelson  9  Scarlet  Pearmam 

4  Cristy's  Pippin  10  Hick's  Fancy 

5  Beauty  of  Kent  11  Woodstock  Pippin 

6  Sykehouse  12  Court  of  Wyck  Pippinr 

The  above  are  all  described  in  the  explana- 
tory list,  where  the  different  seasons  of  ripen- 
ing, with  the  character  of  the  apples,  may  be 
found. 

THE     MODE     OF    PRODUCING     NEW      KINDS     OF 
APPLES. 

Par.  75. — It  is  a  well  known  fact,  not  only 
among  botanists,  but  all  those  who  have  paid 
attention  to  the  culture  of  the  vegetable 
tribe,  that  by  improper  management  their  sorts 
will  degenerate;  and  this  is  caused,  by  such 
sorts  being  planted  too  near  together,  by 
which  means  they  unite  with  each  other. 

If  you  plant  cabbages  and  potatoes,  or  cucum- 


PRODUCING    NEW    KINDS    OF    APPLES.       57 

bers  and  turnips  near  each  other,  or  any  thing  of 
a  different  nature,  they  will  not  injure ;  but  if  you 
plant  cabbage  and  cauliflower,  or  savoy,  or  any 
thing  of  a  similar  nature,  it  will  cause  the  most 
perfect  sort  to  degenerate,  if  they  are  allowed  to 
bloom  together.  The  same  is  the  case  with  ap- 
ples ;  for,  if  various  sorts  are  in  the  same  garden 
blooming  near  each  other,  although  you  might 
save  your  seed  from  what  appeared  a  very  fine 
apple,  you  would  not  judge  which  was  the 
male  parent :  in  order  to  elucidate  this  par- 
ticular, I  will  endeavour  to  state  as  plainly  as 
possible,  the  nature  of  the  apple  from  its  first 
formation,  till  it  becomes  perfect,  and  produces 
the  ripe  pip  or  seed. 

In  the  first  place,  when  the  bloom  is  quite 
open,  the  principal  attraction  is  the  leaves  of  the 
bloom,  five  in  number;  that  which  is  called  the 
corolla  is  below  the  flower,  where  the  small 
green  apple  is  formed,  which  continues  to  grow 
larger  till  it  comes  to  perfection  ;  this  is  called 
the  flower  cup  or  calyx ;  in  the  centre  of  the  cup 
you  see  small  yellow  things  which  are  called 
stiles,  and  below  the  stiles  are  to  be  seen  several 
other  very  small  things  with  round  heads  like 
pins,  which  are  called  stamens,  and  these  pro- 
duce a  fine  dust  called  the  Farina  or  Pollen, 
which  is  collected  by  the  bees  and  other 
D  3 


58       PRODUCING    NEW    KINDS    OF    APPLES. 

insects,  and  which  the  former  so  industriously 
collect  and  lay  up  for  their  young,  &c. 

Various  have  been  the  opinions  on  this  sub- 
ject, but  it  is  now  become  conclusive,  that  the 
bloom  becomes  impregnated  with  other  varie- 
ties, through  the  bees  and  other  insects ;  indeed, 
most  insects  after  they  become  winged,  are 
fond  of  the  sweets  they  can  collect  from  flow- 
ers ;  and  although  we  have  not  so  just  an  idea 
of  many  insects  as  we  have  of  bees,  yet  I  have 
no  doubt,  many  of  them  take  part  in  crossing 
the  fruits  and  vegetables  :  but  the  bees  may 
be  seen  flying  to  a  great  number  of  different 
flowers  and  trees,  before  they  have  a  sufficient 
load  to  take  home  to  their  hive,  and  by  thus 
flying  from  bloom  to  bloom,  and  tree  to  tree, 
they  occasionally  drop  part  of  the  Pollen  into 
another  flower,  which  causes  it  to  be  impreg- 
nated with  the  nature  of  the  fruit  or  vegetable 
from  which  it  was  collected  ;  it  therefore 
shows  the  necessity,  if  we  wish  to  produce  a 
new  variety  of  any  peculiar  quality,  to  plant 
the  trees  where  they  will  not  be  within  a  consi- 
derable distance  of  any  other;  for  instance, 
suppose  you  wish  to  raise  a  new  keeping  apple, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  chuse  two  good  keep- 
ing apples,  and  if  one  were  very  sour,  and  the 
other  sweet,  it  will  have  a  great  chance  of 


DIFFERENT    MODES    OF    GRAFTING.  59 

combining  these  two  qualities,  which  are  quite 
necessary  to  constitute  a  good  apple  ;  or  if  you 
have  a  favourite  early  apple,  and  would  wish  to 
get  one  nearly  like  it  that  would  keep,  then 
plant  by  it  a  good  keeping  apple,  and  you 
will  have  a  chance  of  getting  one  nearly  like 
it,  and  probably  much  better. 

If  your  seedlings  are  at  all  strong,  the  best 
method,  and  most  quick  to  prove  them,  is,  the 
following  spring  after  they  have  come  up,  to 
graft  them  on  young  fruit  bearing  trees ;  it  will 
bring  them  into  bearing  early,  and  by  so  doing, 
you  likewise  have  an  opportunity  of  noticing 
which  are  likely  to  become  good  bearers. 

OBSERVATIONS    ON    THE     DIFFERENT    MODES     OF 
GRAFTING. 

Par.  76. — Various  are  the  opinions  respecting 
the  influence  the  stock  will  have  on  the  scion, 
or  graft :  many  persons  (for  want  of  sufficient 
practice)  to  this  day,  suppose  the  stock  will 
affect  the  scion,  and  consequently  the  fruit 
produced  from  the  tree  grafted  on  a  stock 
whose  fruit  is  different ;  but  during  my  prac- 
tice I  never  have  known  in  any  instance,  the 
fruit  to  become  altered  through  the  stock  it 
was  grafted  on  :  in  order  to  illustrate  this  fact 


60          DIFFERENT   MODES    OF    GRAFTING. 

as  clearly  as  possible,  I  will  give  my  general 
opinion  on  the  subject. 

It  is  necessary  sometimes  to  convey  our 
ideas  (particularly  in  writing  where  it  is  subject 
to  every  criticism)  as  plainly  as  possible ;  I  shall 
therefore  commence  from  the  seed  of  the  stock. 

In  the  first  place,  when  the  seed  first  spears, 
(say  the  Crab)  its  spear  grows  downwards,  (the 
same  by  a  common  bean  or  pea)  perhaps  two 
inches  before  we  see  the  green  seed  leaf  above 
ground,  this  shews  that  the  fund  of  vegetable 
matter  above  ground,  must  be  filtered  through 
the  root,  for  without  the  root  the  tree  cannot 
grow,  but  the  root  might  exist  for  some  time, 
although  the  head  was  cut  down  ;  I  am  there- 
fore most  decidedly  of  opinioti,  that  the  stock 
in  some  degree  partakes  of  the  nature  of  the 
scion  which  is  grafted  on  it ;  for  if  we  look  at 
the  nature  and  constitution  of  a  tree,  and  from 
practice  mark  its  general  progress,  there  can- 
not be  an  existing  doubt,  that  the  roots,  veins, 
fibres,  or  whatever  they  may  be  called,  which 
strike  from  the  scion  into  the  stock,  must  take 
root  and  run  downwards,  and  that  to  the  very 
extremity  where  the  sap  flows ;  this  I  am  fur- 
the  convinced  of  by  putting  the  graft  on  the 


DIFFERENT    MODES    OF    GRAFTING.          61 

centre  of  the  stock  instead  of  the  side,  for  you 
always  find  them  make  a  considerably  bet- 
ter growth,  and  the  trees  are  more  durable ; 
therefore,  if  the  graft  sends  its  roots  down  to 
the  very  extremities  of  the  roots  of  the  stock, 
if  either  becomes  impregnated,  it  must  be  the 
stock  and  not  the  scion. 

The  same  by  budding ;  if  nature  had  so  or- 
dered it,  that  the  stock  should  have  had  any 
influence  on  grafting,  much  more  must  it  have 
had  on  budding,  where  there  is  nothing  left 
but  the  mere  rind ;  yet  this  small  bud  has  been 
in  no  instance  ever  known  to  degenerate  on 
account  of  the  stock,  if  budded  on  a  stock 
it  was  fond  of. 

What  I  mean  by  a  bud  being  fond  of  a  stock, 
is  such  stocks  as  buds  and  grafts  are  usually 
worked  on  ;  this  is  one  very  necessary  branch 
of  a  nurseryman's  profession,  wlien  he  has  a 
new  fruit,  to  endeavour  to  find  out  such  stock 
as  is  best  suited  to  its  constitution,  &c. 

I  remember  many  years  back,  when  quite  a 
boy,  a  common  white  jasmine  which  was  grow- 
ing against  the  house,  and  being  fond  even 
from  my  earliest  years  of  trying  experiments 
among  trees,  I  took  a  bud  from  a  striped  jas- 


62     DIFFERENT  MODES  OF  GRAFTING. 

mine,  and  budded  a  branch  of  the  green  ;  the 
bud  grew,  and  what  shoots  put  forth  below  the 
bud,  most  of  them  became  blotch  leaved  ;  this 
is  a  proof  the  bud  or  graft  must  have  an  effect 
on  the  stock. 

There  are  other  modes  of  grafting,  but  which 
are  little  noticed  for  fruit  trees,  except  when  the 
trees  are  very  large,  and  as  it  will  not  be  foreign 
to  the  present  work  I  will  mention  them. 

First,  rind  grafting ;  this  is  principally  prac- 
tised on  large  trees.  After  cutting  off  the 
branch  of  the  tree  (if  with  a  saw  it  should  be 
made  smooth  with  a  knife)  cut  a  slit  in  the 
rind,  about  two  inches  from  the  top  where  it 
was  cut  off,  open  the  bark  without  bruising  it, 
(the  handle  of  a  budding  knife  is  the  best  in- 
strument) then  cut  a  slice  of  your  scion  the 
length  of  the  incision  on  the  branch,  nearly 
the  same  as  described  in  whip-grafting ;  run 
the  scion  down  between  the  rind  and  the  wood, 
placing  the  wood  of  the  scion  against  the  wood 
of  the ,  stock,  then  bind  it  tight  round  with 
strong  matting,  and  put  clay  round  it  the  same 
as  directed  in  whip-grafting ;  when  this  me- 
thod of  grafting  was  more  in  practice,  many 
would  make  a  shoulder  in  the  scion,  to  rest  it 
on  the  shoulder  of  the  stock ;  but  this  I  think 


DIFFERENT  MODES  OF  GRAFTING.     63 

unnecessary,  as  the  two  woods  would  not 
gender  without  the  bark,  and  there  would 
be  no  bark  on  the  crown  of  the  branch  or 
stock:  three  or  four  scions  may  be  put  on  one 
large  crown;  but  this  method  of  grafting  is 
by  no  means  to  be  recommended,  for  the  winds 
are  so  apt  to  blow  them  out,  and  if  the  bodies  of 
the  trees  were  sound  and  worth  grafting,  and  the 
branches  too  strong  for  whip -grafting,  it  would 
be  far  better  to  cut  them  down  nearly  to  the 
stem  of  the  tree,  and  the  following  year  they 
would  throw  out  fine  young  wood  for  whip- 
grafting,  and  rather  than  lose,  you  would  save 
time  by  this  practice  ;  I  have  whip-grafted  with 
success,  branches  six  and  eight  inches  in  cir- 
cumference. 

Grafting  by  approach,  commonly  called 
enarching  ;  this  method  is  principally  practised 
among  exotics,  consequently  the  fruit  grower 
will  not  feel  interested  in  its  detail,  particularly 
the  apple  grower,  it  being  by  no  means  neces- 
sary ;  this  practice  is  principally  adopted 
where  the  scion  and  stocks  wTill  not  unite 
freely  by  whip-grafting. 


CHAPTER  II. 

ON  THE  CANKER  IN  APPLE  TREES. 

Introduction. 

Par.  77. — The  white  blight,  which  is  now 
but  too  well  known  among  the  apple  trees  in 
this  country,  is  called  by  some  versed  in  na- 
tural history  Aphis  Lanata,  and  by  some  Ame- 
rican blight,  by  others  the  French  blight :  but 
whether  it  is  a  native  of  America,  or  France,  or 
either,  I  think  is  a  matter  of  doubt ;  in  fact, 
all  I  have  read  on  this  subject  have  passed  it 
over  without  any  useful  information ;  but  I 
have  been  informed  by  some  of  the  established 
nurserymen  near  London,  that  it  first  made  its 
appearance  in  this  country  in  the  nursery 
grounds  of  Mr.  Swinton,  of  Chelsea,  who, 
being  curious  in  fruits,  was  in  the  habit  occa- 


INSECT   IN  TREES   IN   THE  NURSERY.        65 

sionally  of  importing  apple  trees  in  pots  on 
Paradise  stocks  from  France,  and  that  it  made 
its  appearance  first  on  them,  the  following  sum- 
mer after  they  were  imported;  and  during  the 
same  summer  made  its  appearance  in  a  nursery 
belonging  to  Mr.  Grimwood,  at  Knightsbridge, 
being  near  to  where  Mr.  Swinton  then  lived. 
This  will  not  appear  at  all  unlikely  that  it 
should  make  its  appearance  in  a  ground  only  a 
few  hundred  yards  from  each  other,  when  the 
real  nature  of  this  insect  is  explained  ;  in  fact, 
for  a  long  period  my  ears  have  been  open  to 
every  word  that  has  been  spoken  on  this  subject, 
for  having  been  in  the  habit  of  grafting  several 
thousand  apples  annually,  for  many  years  past* 

it  induced  m«  to  pay  more  than  01 diu<ay 

to  this  destructive  i 


THE    MANNER   THE     INSECT    OPERATES    O#   THE 
TREES    WHILE    IN    THE  NURSERY. 

Par.  78. — It  very  much  puzzled  me  to 
account  for  the  strange  manner  in  which  it 
operated  during  the  progress  of  the  trees,  for 
the  longer  the  trees  remained  on  the  ground 
the  more  they  seemed  to  get  the  disease.  I 
have  often  reflected  with  some  anxiety,  when 
thinking  of  the  thousands  of  fine  young  trees 


66        INSECT   IN    TREES    IN    THE    NURSERY, 

which  have  gone  from  my  hands,  that  there 
could  be  no  remedy  against  the  canker ;  for  if 
you  asked  any  one  what  they  thought  of  it,  their 
opinions  were  all  at  variance  ;  some  would  say 
it  came  with  the  east  winds,  others  that  it  was  a 
most  extraordinary  and  unaccountable  thing,  but 
no  one  could  give  me  any  useful  information.  I 
was  often  surprised  to  find  trees  that  had  been 
grafted  on  fine  clean  stocks,  and  which  continued 
so  through  the  summer,  and  likewise  towards 
the  autumn,  not  a  blemish  was  to  be  seen,  ex- 
cepting a  little  white  blight  on  the  young 
shoots,  would  the  following  spring  be  getting 
cankered  where  the  trees  were  grafted :  on 
close  examination,  this  was  uniformly  the 

*  >"•-    -  ^fj-        .          ,~~4-         4-V,^«^-,-.r«.V,1-.r 

case  wnere  tiit;  gia.it  was  not  t,uuiuugu«^ 
healed ;  and  when  once  the  "tree  was  attacked, 
it  would  generally  get  worse  every  year :  in 
fact,  it  became  so  bad  in  some  parts  of  the 
country,  that  many  nurserymen  gave  up  grow- 
ing apples  altogether ;  and  from  the  destruc- 
tion with  which  they  were  threatened,  it 
became  quite  disheartening  to  plant ;  and  had 
not  the  real  cause  been  discovered,  our  apples, 
for  which  we  are  so  celebrated,  must  eventually 
have  gone  to  total  ruin :  a  doctor  may  pre- 
scribe various  things  for  a  patient,  but  unless 
he  is  acquainted  with  the  disorder,  it  is  all 
chance  about  the  effect ;  but  first  find  out  the 


FIRST   CHANGE    OF    THE    INSECT.  67 

disorder,  and  then  you  have  a  chance  of  apply- 
ing a  remedy  with  safety. 


DESCRIPTION    OF     THE    FIRST    CHANGE    OF    THE 
INSECT. 

Par.  79. — I  have  discovered  by  the  means 
of  glasses,  that  some  of  these  insects  take  wing 
like  the  small  green  fly,  such  as  are  seen  on 
roses,  &c. ;  but  those  that  become  winged  in 
this  state  turn  to  a  very  small  black  fly ;  and 
if  the  weather  is  not  very  warm  and  favour- 
able, they  will  not  survive ;  but,  if  it  continues 
warm  and  fine,  they  soon  gain  strength,  and  fly, 
and  play  together  in  swarms  like  gnats,  in  the 
a|r  •  but  they  seeni  to  keep  near  their  native 
spot,  unless  carried  away  suddenly  by  the  wind. 
Those  that  take  wing  in  this  state,  are  the 
largest  of  the  Aphis,  which  appear  so  helpless  ; 
but  there  is  another  small  insect,  which  is  very 
diminutive,  and  which  appears  to  stick  to  the 
large  ones  while  they  remain  in  the  cotton-like 
web ;  these  are  scarcely  discernible  without 
the  microscope,  but  they  are  much  more  active 
on  the  legs,  and  soon  grow  larger ;  when 
they  leave  the  web,  they  crawl  down  to  the 
ground,  and  remain  just  under  the  earth  till 
they  have  gained  sufficient  strength  to  find  out 
their  winter's  abode,  during  which  season 


68      OF   THE   INSECT   IN    ANOTHER   STAGE. 

they  cause  the  canker,  which  will  be  hereafter 
described. 

FIRST   DISCOVERY  OF  THE  INSECT  IN    ANOTHER 
STAGE. 

Par.  80. — I  have  often  discovered  during 
my  practice  among  the  apples,  while  removing 
the  cankered  parts  of  the  trees  (which  I  was  uni- 
formly particular  in  doing)  that  a  small  maggot 
or  grub  was  to  be  seen  in  the  part  affected,  but 
I  naturally  concluded  like  others,  more  from 
custom,  (certainly  not  reflection,)  that  it  merely 
got  there  for  shelter;  but  in  June,  1822,  by 
accident,  rather  assisted  by  curiosity,  the  whole 
mystery  was  disclosed. 

PARTICULAR  OBSERVATIONS  MADE  IN  1822, 
OF  THE  INSECT  WHICH  CAUSES  THE  CAN- 
KER — ITS  BECOMING  WINGED. 

Par.  81. — It  may  be  recollected  by  some  of 
my  readers  that  the  summer  of  1822  was  a 
very  fine  one;  and  to  that  fine  summer  suc- 
ceeded a  very  mild  winter ;  in  the  month  of 
June  the  white  blight  began  to  be  very  general. 
This,  I  observed,  as  I  was  going  through  an 
old  apple  quarter  in  the  nursery  which  was 
intended  to  be  cleared  the  following  autumn ; 
and  this  quarter,  which  contained  upwards  of 
twenty  thousand  apple  trees,  were  now  reduced 


OF    THE    INSECT   IN    ANOTHER    STAGE.      69 

to  about  eight  thousand ;  many  of  which,  from 
the  canker,  and  other  causes  were  unsaleable ; 
but  I  observed  those  trees  which  were  cankered, 
was  generally  where  they  had  been  grafted ;  and 
during  the  time  I  was  cutting  them  down  I  paid 
particular  attention,  as  the  white  blight  seemed 
to  increase  daily.  In  my  progress  I  came  to  a 
tree  of  the  Woodstock  Pippin,  which  was  al- 
most eaten  through  with  the  canker ;  I  cut  it  off 
below  the  graft,  and  felt  rather  surprised  to  see 
a  thin  brown  shell  (seven  in  number,)  issuing 
from  holes  through  the  canker ;  I  could  com- 
pare the  bottom  of  this  tree  to  nothing  but  a 
horse  with  a  very  bad  greasy  heel ;  this  I  passed 
over,  but  still  I  thought  it  very  extraordinary, 
and  on  reflection,  was  induced  to  examine 
more  trees  which  had  the  canker,  and  having 
come  to  a  tree  which  was  very  much  eaten,  I 
saw  some  shells  like  the  above,  and  an  insect 
which  was  just  about  to  leave  the  shell,  its 
head  being  quite  out.  I  immediately  cut  it 
out,  and  was  not  a  little  surprised  to  see  it  had 
wings,  and  although  it  appeared  quite  motion- 
less, when  touched  it  moved ;  and  when  the 
chrysalis  was  removed  from  it,  in  a  few 
seconds  it  began  to  move  its  wings,  this  I  put 
on  a  leaf  on  the  ground,  from  whence  it  soon 
took  flight.  I  examined  the  tree  further,  when 
cutting  away  the  canker,  I  further  discovered 


70      OF   THE   INSECT   IN    ANOTHER   STAGE. 

in  the  same  spot  two  maggots  or  grubs,  about 
half  an  inch  long,  of  a  whitish  brown,   and 
dark  heads,  and  likewise  concealed  very  safely 
between  the  rind  and  the  wood,  two  insects  in 
a  chrysalis,  rather  a  lighter  colour  than  those 
from  which  the  insects  had  flown,  and  I  was 
convinced  from  what  I  knew  of  natural  history, 
that  these  were  all  the  same  species  of  insect. 
I  then  began  to  think  that  what  produced  the 
canker,   and  the  white  blight,   must  be  two 
distinct  species  of  insect ;  but  standing  reflect- 
ing on  what  I  had  seen,  with  a  view  to  fur- 
ther examination,  I  observed  a  strange  look- 
ing fly,  about  half  an  inch  long  to  all  appear- 
ance,  fly  very  deliberately  from  tree  to  tree, 
I  may  say  nearly  twenty,  and  appeared  to  set- 
tle near  the  bottom,  but  its  wings  were  scarcely 
quiet  before  it   again   took   flight;    and   as  it 
stopped  at  every  tree  it  came  to,  I  watched  it 
very  closely;  at  last  it  came  to  a  tree  which  had 
the  canker  very  bad  just  at  the  graft:  this  tree 
the  fly  took  a  fancy  to,  and  having  settled  for 
about  two  or  three  seconds,  it  did  the  same  at 
every  knot  it  could  find  all  up  the  stem  ;  after 
it  had  settled  six  or  eight  times  (during  which 
time  it  seemed  very  intent,)  I  knocked  it  down, 
and  taking  it  in  my  hand,  and  it  not  being  dead, 
I  gave  it  a  squeeze  in  the  palm  of  my  hand  with 
my  thumb  to  kill  it,  which  caused  it  to  dis- 


OF    THE    INSECT   LAYING    ITS    EGGS.         71 

charge  several  eggs,  which  I  distinctly  saw; 
they  were  round  and  almost  as  small  as  dust, 
of  a  light  brown  colour,  and  very  hard ;  I  then 
examined  the  fly,  which  was  not  dead,  neither 
could  I  kill  it  till  I  pinched  the  head  ;  it  was  a 
venemous  looking  fly,  with  a  shining  black 
head,  and  two  prominent  eyes, — with  two  horns 
full  a  quarter  of  an  inch  long, — the  body  of  the 
fly  was  also  black  ;  it  measured  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  from  the  head  to  the  tail,  and  an 
inch  from  the  tail  to  the  end  of  the  horns ;  it 
looked  venemous,  and  was  very  handsome. 

FIRST    DISCOVERY    OF    THE    INSECT    LAYING    ITS 
EGGS,    WITH    OTHER    REMARKS. 

Par.  82. — I  next  turned  my  attention  to  the 
tree  where  it  had  been  so  busy,  and  examined 
the  spots  where  I  saw  it  settle,  and  there  I  saw 
in  three  different  places  an  egg,  but  one  in  par- 
ticular I  saw  distinctly,  with  a  little  mucus 
attached  to  it ;  this  induced  me  to  mark  the 
tree,  and  the  spot  where  I  saw  the  egg  so  dis- 
tinctly ;  I  continued  to  watch  it  almost  daily  for 
about  three  weeks,  when  I  saw  a  spot  of  white 
exactly  where  the  egg  was  laid,  and  in  a  few 
days  it  covered  about  as  much  space  as  would 
contain  a  sixpence ;  this  was  rather  in  a  hollow 
where  a  shoot  had  been  cut  off,  and  the  bark 
had  not  quite  healed  over ;  I  allowed  the  insect 


72    FLIES    TAKE    SHELTER    IN    WET    WEATHER. 

to  remain,  to  watch  its  progress,  which  I  did 
more  narrowly  than  I  ever  did  before,  and 
found  it  subsisted  on  the  bark  of  the  tree,  till  it 
gained  strength  sufficient  to  leave  the  web, 
which  several  would  do  some  days  before  the 
rest,  and  then  crawl  away  imperceptibly, 
leaving  the  part  where  they  had  been,  com- 
pletely blistered  and  up  in  lumps. 

FURTHER    DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    LARGE    FLY    IN 
ITS    PERFECT    STATE. 

Par.  83. — Being  thoroughly  convinced  it 
was  all  tbe  same  insect,  I  looked  about 
among  the  apple  trees,  and  saw  several  of  these 
flies,  but  they  flew  and  darted  about  so  quick 
in  the  air,  that  it  was  a  hard  matter  to  knock 
them  down,  and  very  few  were  so  large  as  the 
one  before  described :  but  later  in  the  season,  I 
found  many  as  large ;  the  male  does  not  ap- 
pear to  be  so  large  as  the  female,  excepting 
the  head,  which  is  larger. 

WHERE     THE     FLIES    TAKE     SHELTER     IN     WET 
WEATHER 

par.  84. — The  part  in  this  large  quarter  of 
apple  trees  where  I  found  the  flies  most,  was 
for  about  thirty  yards  where  some  Wych  Elms 
were  in  the  hedge,  and  which  produce  large 


OPERATIONS    OF    THE  INSECT  IN  WINTER.    73 

leaves,  and  in  wet  weather  the  flies  were  to  be 
found  under  them  for  shelter. 

THE    MANNER     THE     INSECT     OPERATES    ON    THE 
ROOTS    IN    WINTER. 

Par.  85. — In  the  autumn  I  discovered  many 
of  the  insects  crawling  about  the  ground ;  they 
would  enter  the  cavities  close  to  the  apple 
roots,  that  are  caused  by  the  wind  blowing  the 
trees  backwards  and  forwards  :  at  this  sea- 
son, I  have  no  doubt  the  insect  is  sufficiently 
sensible  that  the  approaching  cold  season  will 
not  admit  of  her  young  surviving  through  the 
winter  on  the  trees,  and  consequently  makes  its 
way  to  the  roots  for  warmth  ;  for  in  the  winter 
season,  I  have  often  found  the  insect  in  its  white 
state  on  the  roots  under  ground;  but  these 
always  appear  very  small  and  weakly,  compared 
to  those  in  warm  summer  weather,  and  the  fly 
appears  to  have  great  strength  for  its  size,  as  I 
have  seen  it  force  its  way  into  the  earth;  in  a 
most  astonishing  manner;  but  this  singular 
insect,  the  large  fly,  I  have  brought  to  its  per- 
fect winged  state,  in  a  glass,  .since  I  wrote  the 
foregoing  pages,  which  I  now  have  by  me,  and 
likewise  the  piece  of  the  tree  where  it  had  formed 
itself  into  a  chrysalis ;  I  kept  the  fly  alive  nine 
days. 


74         SECOND    CHANGE     OF   THE     INSECT. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  FIRST  CHANGE  OF  THE 
VERY  SMALL  INSECT,  ALLUDED  TO  IN  PARA^ 
GRAPH  THE  SEVENTY-NINTH,  WHICH  CAUSES 
THE  CANKER,  AND  BECOMES  THE  LARGE  FLY. 

Par.  86. — Those  versed  in  natural  history, 
describe  moths  and  all  winged  insects,  to 
have  various  changes  before  they  become 
winged,  which  is  the  last  stage  of  their  ex- 
istence ;  and  I  shall  now  state  as  plainly  as 
possible  the  manner  in  which  this  insect  goes 
through  its  different  changes  :  it  first  enters  a 
crevice  in  the  apple  tree,  where  it  begins  to  feed 
on  the  inner  rind,  and  the  outside  skin  of  the. 
insect  becomes  a  sort  of  dead  substance,  and 
the  inside  contains  a  very  small  maggot  or  grub, 
with  a  black  head,  which  it  puts  out  at  one  end 
for  food  ;  the  dry  skin  is  retained  most  probably 
to  keep  it  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather  : 
its  colour  is  nearly  the  colour  of  the  bark  df 
the  tree,  which  makes  it  in  this  state  almost 
imperceptible ;  but  during  the  winter,  this  small 
worm  makes  its  way  under  the  rind  of  the  trees, 
and  there  hangs  by  its  head,  feeding  on  the 
juices  of  the  rind. 

SECOND  CHANGE  OF  THE  INSECT. 

Par.  87. — When  they  have  cast  this  skin, 
(which  is  quite  tough,  but  as  thin  as  possible,) 


INSECT  BECOMING  WINGED.       75 

it  begins  to  eat  under  the  bark ;  and  in  this 
stage  it  commits  the  greatest  depredations,  and 
soon  becomes  a  good  sized  maggot.  I  am 
inclined  to  think  from  my  discoveries  this  sea- 
son, that  the  cold  weather  does  not  much  affect 
them;  for  although  we  had  much  severe 
weather,  from  Christmas,  1822,  to  March,  1823, 
in  the  latter  month,  when  I  came  to  examine  the 
trees  where  they  were  cankered,  I  found 
several  which,  had  left  the  skin  quite  lively,  and 
could  see  where  they  had  been  recently  feed- 
ing ;  and  others  with  their  heads  just  coming 
out  of  the  skin ;  they  adhere  by  their  head  to 
the  tree,  and  if  you  remove  them  gently,  they 
hang  by  a  web  to  keep  themselves  from  falling, 
and  unless  you  examine  them,  you  would  sup- 
pose them  nothing  more  than  small  morsels 
of  dead  leaf  or  bark. 

THE    THIRD    CHANGE    OF    THE    INSECT,    AND    ITS 
BECOMING    WINGED. 

Par.  88. — The  maggot,  having  grown  to  the 
size  of  about  two-thirds  of  an  inch,  looks  out  for 
a  convenient  place  in  the  tree,  and  after  discharg- 
ing a  quantity  of  excrement,  it  forms  itself  into 
a  chrysalis,  and  remains  torpid  for'some  time, 
when  it  quits  the  chrysalis,  or  shell;  it  then 
becomes  the  winged  fly,  and  commences  breed- 
ing as  before  described,  after  which  it  dies. 

E-2 


76       REMARKS    RESPECTING    OTHER    INSECTS, 
FURTHER    OBSERVATIONS, 

,  Par.  89. — Now,  I  find  from  my  further  obser- 
vations this  spring,  that  many  of  the  chrysalis 
turn  into  flies  quite  early,  as  I  have  found  them 
in  April  on  a  warm  day,  and  in  their  first  state 
they  appear  black.  I  have  examined  a  great 
many  trees  this  spring,  where  the  canker  ap- 
peared, and  there  found  the  insect,  in  its  larva 
state,  of  different  sizes,  and  while  in  this  state 
like  a  small  slender  maggot ;  when  you  cut  to 
the  spot  where  they  are  concealed  they  throw 
themselves  about  in  a  violent  manner,  and  will 
frequently  drop  down  hanging  by  a  web. 
« 

REMARKS    RESPECTING    OTHER    INSECTS, 

Par.  90. — To  speak  of  ^11  the  insects  which 
infest  the  vegetable  tribe,  is  impossible,  (at 
least  I  will  leave  it  to  entomologists)  for,  I  be- 
lieve it  to  be  beyond  the  comprehension  of 
human  understanding,  to  follow  the  myriads  of 
insects  through  their  various  changes,  many  of 
which,  would  be  as  difficult  to  discover  as  the 
apple-fly,  which  has  been  so  many  years  tried 
at ;  but,  as  they  do  not  appear  of  that  conse- 
quence, they  have  not  received  that  share  of 
pains  and  trouble,  at  least,  as  far  as  regards 
myself:  at  the  same  time,  I  will  give  a  brief 
description  of  a  few>  which  have  come  under 
my  notice^  to  shew  that  there  are  others  which 


REMARKS    ON    BUTTERFLIES. 

pass  through  nearly  the  same  changes  as  the 
apple-fly. 

DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    SMALL    BROWN    CHAFER, 
WHICH    IS    SO    INJURIOUS    IN    NURSERIES,    &C. 

Par.  91. — The  first  I  will  mention  is  a  small 
brown  chafer,  which  is  well  known  to  nursery- 
men, particularly  about  London ;  this  chafer, 
like  other  chafers,  is  fond  of  laying  its  eggs 
under  ground,  close  to  a  tree  for  protection ; 
they  hatch  early  in  spring,  and  become  a  small 
brown  maggot ;  it  is  a  very  great  enemy  to 
the  apricot  and  other  buds ;  for  early  in  the 
spring,  when  the  insect  comes  to  life,  it  crawls 
up  the  stem,  and  forms  a  sort  of  web  for  its 
protection  beside  the  bud ;  and  when  the  young 
bud  of  the  apricot  puts  forth,  this  insect  wiU 
get  into  it  and  eat  it  off,  and  sometimes  eat  it 
completely  out;  the  consequence  is,  if  they 
shoot  again,  it  is  with  twin  shoots,  and  fre- 
quently so  late  that  the  trees  do  not  grow  near 
so  strong.  This  insect,  like  the  apple-fly,  after- 
wards turns  into  the  small  winged  chafer,  as 
before  described ;  but  there  is  another  cater- 
pillar or  maggot,  which  is  very  injurious  to  buds 
in  spring,  it  turns  to  a  brown  moth. 

REMARKS    ON    BUTTERFLIES. 

Par.  92.— From  the  accounts  I  have  read 


78         DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    SILK-WORM, 

in  natural  history,  together  with  my  own 
observations,  I  find,  the  different  sorts  of  but- 
terfly go  through  similar  changes,  but  at  va- 
rious periods,  and  each  different  butterfly  dif- 
fers equally  in  its  caterpillar  state  :  there  are 
smooth  caterpillars  of  different  colours  and 
sizes,  and  some  beautiful  and  hairy ;  likewise, 
they  vary  in  the  different  sorts  of  food  they 
choose,  but  they  all  in  their  different  seasons 
become  winged.  • 

DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    SILK    WORM. 

Par.  93. — The  silk- worm  goes  through 
nearly  the  same  changes,  but  at  a  different 
season  to  the  last  named ;  the  egg  is  hatched 
about  the  month  of  April  or  May,  and  then 
remains  in  the  caterpillar  or  worm  state  till 
about  July ;  during  this  time  it  will  consume  a 
considerable  portion  of  food  if  you  give  it  what 
is  fond  of — mulberry  leaves  are  its  greatest 
favourite ;  it  will  then  change  into  a  pupa, 
which  is  more  hard  than  the  larva  or  worm ; 
in  this  state  it  remains  some  time,  and  having 
produced  silk,  it  then  turns  to  a  moth,  and 
after  laying  its  eggs  it  very  shortly  dies. 

THE     REASON     FOR     INTRODUCING     THE     ABOVE 
INSECTS. 

Par.  94. — I  would  give  a  description  of  a  con- 


REASONS.  79 

siderable  number  of  other  insects,  but  as  this  is 
a  work  not  intended  for  that  purpose  it  would 
only  cause  confusion.  What  I  have  already  said, 
is  merely  to  show  to  those  wholly  unacquainted 
with  the  various  changes  the  insects  go  through, 
that  the  apple-fly  is  by  no  means  extraordi- 
nary, when  we  look  at  the  different  changes  of 
all  these  wonderful  insects ;  in  fact,  it  is  said 
by  some  naturalists,  that  many  of  those  grubs 
which  we  find  underground,  go  through  four  or 
five  different  changes  before  they  become 
winged. 

THE  REASON  FOR  BRINGING  OUT  THE  COMPO- 
SITION TO  PREVENT  THE  CANKER,  &C. 

Par.  95. — I  now  feel  it  but  just  to  state  to 
my  readers,  that  having  completed  my  experi- 
ments, and  found  them  to  answer  my  most  san- 
guine expectations,  I  made  bold  to  write  to  the 
Earl  of  Liverpool,  offering  the  discovery  to 
government;  but  on  a  subsequent  interview 
with  T.  Brooksbank,  Esq.  at  Fife  House,  (his 
lordship's  secretary,)  he  said,  before  government 
could  notice  it,  it  would  be  necessary  to  have 
strong  proofs  of  its  utility  from  the  public.  I 
therefore  prepared  a  quantity  of  the  composi- 
tion, and  made  it  up  in  packets  at  one  shilling, 
one  shilling  and  ninepence,  and  five  shillings 
each,  thereby  giving  every  one,  at  a  trifling  ex- 


80AGENTS  FOR  THE  SALE  OF  THE  COMPOSITION. 

pence,  the  opportunity  of  a  fair  trial  on  their 
own  trees ;  this  has  had  the  desired  effect,  as  a 
great  quantity  has  already  been  sold,  and  a 
number  of  persons  owning  public  nurseries  and 
private  gardens  have  become  satisfied  of  its 
efficacy  ;  through  which  the  demand  is  greatly 
increasing. 

THE     TOWN     AGENTS     FOR    THE     SALE      OF      THE 
COMPOSITION. 

Par.  96.- — It  is  sold  under  the  title  of  the 
Chelsea  Apple  Powder,  and  may  be  had  at  the 
following  London  agents  ;  Messrs.  Girmley  and 
Co.  Covent  Garden  Market,  Messrs.  Wood- 
man and  Seekers,  No.  18,  Piccadilly,  corner 
of  Air  Street,  and  Messrs.  John  Hunt  and  Sons, 
Seedsmen,  No.  53,  High  Street,  Borough,  and 
at  the  Manufactory,  No.  9,  Francis  Street, 
Chelsea  Common,  Middlesex. 


LABEL. 


81 


FORM  OF  LABEL  PASTED  ON  EACH  PACKET. 

Par.  97. — The  following  is  the  form  of  the 
label  pasted  on  the  packets. 

TO 
PREVENT  AND  CURE  THE  CANKER 

IN 

APPLE  TREES, 

CAUSED  BY  THE 

American  Blight. 


THE 


This  valuable  Composi- 
tion, with  little  trouble, 
will  effectually  prevent 
the  Canker  in  sound 
Tiees,  afford  peculiar 
Nourishment,  and  make 
a  perfect  Cure  of  Canker- 
ed Trees,  not  past  re- 
covery; it  will  remain 
on  the  Trees  till  it  has 
had  the  desired  effect, 
cause  the  wounded 
PI  aces  to  heal,  produce 
a  fine  clear  Bark,  and 
retain  its  Virtues  in  any 
Climate. 


CHEZiSEA 

APPLE 

Powder. 


PIIEP.ARED  AND  SOLD  AT 

No.  9, 
FRANCIS  STREET, 

Chelsea  Common, 

MIDDLESEX. 


Direction*  for  Use. 

When  the  Trees  are 
quite  dry,  put  the  Com- 
position in  an  open 
Vessel,  add  as  much 
Water  as  will  make  it 
the  substance  of  Pain', 
then,  with  a  Brush, 
apply  it  all  over  the 
Stem,  quite  to  the  bot- 
tom, and  a  little  under 
groand ;  if  unplanted, 
apply  it  to  the  princi- 
pal Roots,  likewise  the 
main  Branches  from  the 
Stem;  where  the  Trees 
are  much  Cankered,  it 
should  be  first  cut  out, 
then  use  the  Mixture 
thoroughly  to  those 
Places,  and  the  Trees 
will  become  healthy  and 
flourishing. 


CAUTION    NOT  TO   USE   IMPROPER  THINGS. 

Par.  98.-  -The  remedy  I  have  now  introduced 
E  3 


82  DIFFICULTY    IN    CONVINCING. 

although  simple,  will  require  some  care  in  its 
application,  to  mind  it  is  applied  thoroughly  as 
directed  on  the  packets,  for  I  have  the  satis- 
faction to  state,  it  may  be  used  over  the  bloom 
buds  in  March,  or  the  most  tender  shoots  in 
summer:  it  is  the  only  effectual  cure  for 
this  disease  ever  discovered,  that  is  not  in- 
jurious to  the  trees.  Oils  were  at  one  time 
much  used  for  it,  but  they  were  found  too 
powerful ;  indeed,  I  have  destroyed  many 
young  apple  trees  by  applying  sweet  oil.  Coal 
tar  has  also  been  lately  introduced,  but  that 
can  only  be  used  to  old  wounds,  and  then  it 
makes  a  bad  smell,  and  leaves  the  trees  in 
half  mourning;  it  is  a  most  dangerous  thing 
to  apply  to  young  trees,  as  I  have  seen  trees 
twenty  years  old  destroyed  with  it,  down  to  the 
very  roots,  but  this  has  been  when  applied  all 
over  the  principal  part  of  the  tree. 

THE    DIFFICULTY  ^IN    CONVINCING. 

Par.  99. — I  am  aware  of  the  difficulties  aris- 
ing in  persuading  men  against  their  own  in- 
clination, on  what  they  are  not  personally 
acquainted  with :  for  in  almost  every  separate 
county  in  England,  they  have  different  ways 
of  farming,  and  each  supports  its  own  opinions  ; 
and  this  notwithstanding  the  wide  dissemi- 
nation of  new  and  acknowledged  improvements. 


USEFUL    REMARKS.  83 

But  although  this  is  the  case  among  agricul- 
turists, it  is  carried  to  a  far  greater  extent  by 
horticulturists  ;  it  would  be  an  extraordinary 
thing  indeed,  for  one  gardener  to  prune  and 
manage  a  tree  to  please  another.  At  the  same 
time,  although  they  may  differ  much  in  their 
opinions,  they  may  produce  equally  fine  fruit, 
and  keep  their  trees  in  equally  good  order. 

But  the  subject  before  us,  is  of  such  great 
national  importance,  that  every  one  must  feel 
interested  in  it,  who  is  fond  of  horticultural 
pursuits.  The  remedy  is  so  very  plain  and 
easy,  I  think  I  need  not  recite  my  experiments, 
to  convince  the  public  of  its  efficacy.  Never- 
theless, I  will  give  as  much  explicit  informa- 
tion on  the  subject,  as  my  memory,  together 
with  my  memorandums,  will  furnish  me  with. 

SOME    USEFUL    REMARKS. 

Par.  100. — I  must  beg  first  of  all,  to  make 
this  impression  on  the  minds  of  my  readers,  to 
prevent  any  misunderstanding ;  that  is,  that 
the  powder  is  intended  as  a  remedy  for  the 
canker : — and  although  I  have  said  it  may  be 
used  on  the  most  tender  shoots  in  summer,  yet 
be  it  understood,  although  it  is  necessary  to  use 
every  means  to  check  it  when  we  see  it  raging 
in  its  white  state,  yet  my  object  is,  to  preserve 


84    TO    PREVENT    CANKER    IN    MAIN    STEM. 

the  main  stem  and  branches  from  the  canker  : 
this  it  will  effect,  and  keep  them  free  from 
moss,  and  other  diseases,  by  applying  the  com- 
position as  it  is  directed,  once  in  about  two 
years.  I  have  made  the  foregoing  observa- 
tions, to  prevent  any  mistaken  idea,  of  apply- 
ing it  to  a  tree,  which  is  probably  smothered 
with  the  insect  in  summer,  and  perhaps 
not  half  the  eggs  hatched.  Wherever  the 
brush  should  pass  by,  they  will  of  course  come 
to  life,  and  there  remain  till  they  are  suffi- 
ciently strong  to  leave  the  cotton-like  web, 
when  they  instantly  crawl  to  the  ground,  and 
finding  the  principal  part  of  the  tree  not  fit 
food  for  them,  they  will  be  sure  to  leave  it, 
and  will  not  deposit  their  eggs  there  again  : 
indeed,  I  would  undertake^  if  twenty  thousand 
clean  standard  apple  trees  were  planted  on 
good  soil,  and  treated  as  will  be  hereafter 
described,  that  they  should  be  as  sound  in  fifty 
years  hence  as  when  first  planted  ;  but  the  se- 
lection of  clear  trees  ought  not  to  be  unnoticed, 
particularly  where  large  orchards  are  planted. 

TO  PREVENT  THE    CANKER   IN    THE    MAIN  STEM, 
&C.    THE    MOST    NECESSARY. 

Par.  101. — To  prevent  the  canker  in  the 
main  stem  must  be  allowed  by  all  to  be  the 
most  necessary  to  keep  the  tree  in  good  bodily 


HOW    TO    APPLY    THE    COMPOSITION.        85 

health ;  for  it  is  of  little  use  to  keep  the  tops 
of  our  trees  clear,  if  we  allow  the  body  to  be 
eaten  up  and  killed  by  piecemeal ;  therefore, 
as  I  have  before  observed,  when  the  insect 
changes  into  the  small  maggot,  which  some  of 
the  early  ones  do  in  the  autumn,  it  then  finds 
out  its  place  of  residence  for  the  winter,  and 
the  spots  generally  fancied  are  those  which  have 
given  harbour  to  previous  generations,  till  from 
year  to  year  they  so  eat  away  the  tree,  that  we 
often  see  large  trees  almost  eaten  through  the 
body. 

HOW    TO    APPLY    THE    COMPOSITION    TO    YOUNG 
STANDARD     TREES. 

Par  102. — I  shall  first  give  directions  how 
to  apply  the  composition  to  young  standard 
trees  which  are  sound.  When  the  trees  are 
dry,  put  the  composition  in  an  open  vessel, 
add  as  much  water  as  will  make  it  about  the 
consistence  paint  is  generally  *  used  :  when 
mixed  thoroughly  together,  take  a  brush  (a  sort 
of  painter's  brush  would  do)  and  apply  the 
mixture  up  the  stem,  and  likewise  to  the  lead- 
ing branches,  and  if  a  crack  should  appear,  be 
sure  do  not  let  the  brush  pass  by,  but  give  that 
an  extra  quantity.  If  the  trees  are  unplanted,  I 
should  strongly  recommend  applying  it  to  the 
principal  roots  with  the  brush,  or  if  your  ves- 


86        HOW    TO    APPLY    THE    COMPOSITION. 

sel  were  large  enough,  after  the  roots  were 
pruned,  dip  the  whole  of  the  root  into  it,  and 
the  insect  would  never  after  get  to  the  roots. 

Why  I  recommend  this  is,  because  the  in- 
sects frequently  lay  in  the  roots  when  they  do 
not  appear  on  the  heads ;  and  as  there  is  not 
a  nursery  round  London,  and  I  believe  scarcely 
one  in  England,  but  what  is  now  very  badly 
infested  with  this  insect,  (although  at  the  plant- 
ing season,  it  is  not  much  to  be  seen)  it  is  highly 
necessary  that  every  one  who  plants,  should  use 
his  utmost  endeavours  to  prevent  this  disease, 
or  he  had  better  at  once  give  his  money  away 
than  lay  it  out  for  apple  trees,  which  would 
only  stand  and  -annoy  their  owners,  without 
any  source  of  profit  or  pleasure ;  I  should 
recommend  the  application  of  the  mixture  to 
the  stem,  and  leading  shoots  from  the  stem, 
about  March  on  sound  trees,  and  it  will  destroy 
the  eggs  of  various  other  insects,  at  the  same 
time,  just  as  they  are  about  to  hatch.  It  may 
be  applied  wherever  the  insect  makes  its  ap- 
pearance, at  all  seasons,  for  which  purpose  the 
composition  should  be  always  kept  in  reserve. 

As  the  insect  is  very  apt  to  work  its  way  into 
the  tree  where  the  branches  leave  the  main 
stem,  this  part  should  be  well  brushed,  and  as 


HOW    TO    APPLY    THE    COMPOSITION.         87 

far  up  the  limbs  as  you  can  conveniently 
reach,  and  by  keeping  the  trees  clear  that 
height,  you  will  ensure  their  being  healthy 
and  flourishing  ;  for  it  is  a  very  rare  thing  to  see 
a  tree  cankered,  to  injure  it  in  the  head,  unless 
it  is  first  cankered  in  or  near  the  body ;  and 
there  appears  to  be  a  great  degree  of  sagacity 
about  these  insects,  for  they  always  attack 
those  trees,  by  far  the  most,  which  are  cankered, 
and  pass  by  those  which  are  healthy,  as  if  they 
were  aware  they  should  not  be  disturbed. 

HOW     TO      APPLY     THE      COMPOSITION     TO      OLD 
STANDARD    CANKERED    APPLE    TREES. 

Par.  103. — The  next  thing  we  will  attend  to 
is  the  old  standard  trees :  now  instead  of  a 
preventive,  we  want  a  cure,  for  there  are  but 
few  old  trees  to  be  found  without  the  disease  : 
the  operation  these  trees  have  to  go  through,  I 
should  advise  to  be  left  till  after  Christmas,  as 
you  would  then  destroy  the  insects  which  are 
in  the  trees,  and  consequently  prevent  their 
next  brood. 

In  the  first  place,  cut  out  the  canker  clean, 
(in  which  you  will  soon  discover  plenty  of  these 
small  maggots)  for  where  the  trees  are  very 
bad  you  would  not  be  able  to  get  the  solution 
thoroughly  into  the  parts  affected,  without  first 


88        HOW    TO    APPLY    THE    COMPOSITION. 

cutting  away  the  canker ;  this  should  be  done 
as  far  as  the  tree  is  at  all  blemished,  till  you 
come  all  round  to  sound  bark,  otherwise  it  will 
not  heal  well — and  such  trees  as  have  moss 
on  the  stems  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned 
before  the  mixture  is  applied  ;  for  this  not  only 
fedtfs  on  the  tree  itself,  but  is  a  complete  har- 
boui^for  insects.  The  heads  of  the  trees  should 
be  pruned,  taking  away  all  limbs  that  are 
cankered,  unless  you  cut  the  canker  out,  and 
likewise  all  branches  which  are  superfluous ; 
then  apply  the  mixture  thoroughly  in  all  parts 
you  can  as  before  described  ;  and  wherever 
a  small  crack  appears  in  the  bark,  be  sure 
not  to  forget  an  extra  portion,  for  there  is 
almost  sure  to  be  a  maggot ;  also  well  brush 
the  parts  where  the  cankef  is  taken  out,  and  it 
will  so  change  the  flavour,  the  insect  will  never 
attack  those  places  again :  should  the  trees  be 
very  bad,  you  may  add  a  small  portion  of  oil, 
about  a  table-spoonful  to  a  one  shilling  packet, 
and  so  in  proportion  to  the  larger  packets. 
Why  I  recommend  oil  in  this  case,  is  be- 
cause it  will  convey  the  mixture  into  the  cavi- 
ties, for  if  you  spill  oil  on  the  floor,  it  will  soon 
cover  a  much  larger  space  than  where  it  first 
fell,  and  the  quantity  recommended  will  not 
injure ;  but  this  addition  will  be  quite  unne- 
cessary on  clean  trees,  as  the  composition  used 


DECAYED  TREES  TO  BE  DESTROYED.   89 

as  directed  on  the  labels,  will  so  change  the 
flavour  of  the  outer  rind,  that  the  insect  will 
not  attack  it. 

TREES  PAST  RECOVERY  RECOMMENDED  TO  BE 
DESTROYED. 

Par.  104. — Where  trees  are  so  much  eaten 
as  I  have  seen  some,  that  the  main  wood  as 
well  as  the  bark  is  decayed,  I  should  recom- 
mend such  trees  to  be  destroyed,  for  they  are 
only  an  incumbrance  to  the  ground ;  and 
although  they  may  bear  fruit,  they  are  more 
loss  than  profit,  for  the  trees  have  not  strength 
to  produce  good  fruit. 

I  last  season  took  notice  of  a  fine  young 
standard  Scarlet  Pearmain  about  ten  years  old, 
full  of  fruit,  which  was  very  fine,  excepting  one 
branch,  and  on  that  the  fruit  was  small, 
dwindling,  and  almost  tasteless,  with  scarcely 
any  juice ;  on  examination,  I  found  that  limb, 
very  near  the  body  of  the  tree,  almost  eaten 
through  with  the  insects,  and  so  much  was  the 
fruit  altered  in  its' appearance,  that  I  supposed 
it  was  another  sort  of  apple  on  the  tree ;  there- 
fore, this  is  a  proof  how  it  must  change  the 
flavour  of  our  cider,  as  well  as  the  fruit  for 
all  other  purposes. 


iO  HOW    TO    APPLY    THE    POWDER. 

HOW  TO  APPLY  THE  CHELSEA  APPLE  POWDEK 
TO  DWARF  TREES,  WITH  FURTHER  PROOFS 
OF  ITS  UTILITY. 

Par.  105. — We  must  now  notice  the  dwarfs- 
These  trees  pruned  as  described  under  the  head 
of  pruning,  may  easily  be  kept  entirely  free 
from  the  insect,  and  consequently  canker,  by 
the  following  treatment :  the  trees  having  at- 
tained the  height  you  wish,  use  the  mixture  all 
up  the  main  branches,  but  be  sure  to  use  it 
thoroughly  round  the  branches  near  the  stem  ; 
it  also  may  be  used  over  the  bloom  buds, 
just  before  the  buds  burst.  If  this  is  done 
thoroughly  and  with  care,  so  as  not  to  pass 
over  any  cracks  or  holes,  the  trees  may  be 
insured  against  canker  with  perfect  safety.  I 
have  had  this  summer,  together  with  many  of 
my  friends,  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  the 
good  effects  of  the  Chelsea  Apple  Powder  in 
this  instance,  on  some  apple  trees  in  the  garden 
of  Mr.  Jones,  Old  Brompton,  Middlesex.  He 
having  some  trees  which  were  very  bad  with  the 
disease,  intended  throwing  them  away,  and  two 
in  particular  which  stood  near  together  :  I  told 
him  they  would  recover  if  he  used  the  compo- 
sition ;  he  said  he  would  try  it,  and  by  way  of 
experiment — on  the  worst  of  the  two,— which 
was  one  mass  of  corruption,  from  the  root  to 


ON    TRAINED    TREES.        .  91 

the  extremities  of  the  shoots  ; — the  tree,  after 
cutting  away  the  worst  places  with  the  knife, 
was  dressed  all  over  with  the  composition : 
this  was  done  early  in  March;  it  had  the 
effect  of  completely  destroying  the  insect, — 
caused  it  to  throw  out  vigorous  shoots, — and 
every  bloom  bud  that  was  left  on  the  tree  pro- 
duced fine  fruit,  without  the  appearance  of  a 
maggot,  or  any  other  insect,  about  the  tree ; 
while  the  tree  which  stood  by  it,  was  early  in 
June,  as  white  as  a  sheet  with  the  insect,  and 
nearly  every  shoot  and  bloom  bud  curled  up 
with  a  small  maggot.  Mr.  Jones  left  them 
standing  during  the  summer  in  this  state,  for 
any  one,  who  might  be  so  inclined,  to  see  the 
contrast;  this  exhibition  has  been  productive 
of  both  astonishment  and  conviction ;  and  will 
no  doubt  continue  so  to  operate  on  all  who 
may  yet  visit  the  scene. 

I  could  mention  many  other  circumstances, 
but  none  could  be  more  conclusive  than  the 
above,  to  shew  the  composition's  powerful 
effects  without  the  least  injury  even  to  the 
tender  bloom  buds. 

WHAT  MAY  RELATE  TO  TRAINED  TREES,  &C. 

Par.  106. — Trained  apples.  From  what  has 
already  been  said,  my  readers  may  judge  of 


92  OBSERVATIONS. 

all  other  ordinary  cases,  such  as  may  relate  to 
trained  apples,  &c.,  which  therefore  it  is  not 
necessary  to  particularise. 

OBSERVATIONS. 

Par.  107. — Having  given  a  copious  account 
of  this  destructive  insect,  with  a  remedy,  which 
I  know  to  be  safe,  and  the  best  my  judgment 
could  dictate,  I  must  now  leave  it  (and  I  do 
with  confidence)  in  the  hands  of  a  generous 
public  for  support. 

The  great  improvements  making  throughout 
the  country  in  the  present  day,  particularly  in 
horticulture,  aided  as  they  are  by  the  first  people 
in  the  land,  will  evidently^  reflect  great  honour 
on  the  country ;  and  should  I,  as  an  humble 
individual,  be  the  means  of  laying  the  founda- 
tion for  once  more  seeing  our  apple  orchards 
flourishing,  my  ends  will  be  answered. 

I  am  aware  from  this  insect  breeding  in  the 
prolific  manner  it  does,  that  unless  it  were  to 
come  under  government  authority,  there  would 
be  no  chance  of  effectually  eradicating  it  from 
the  country, — yet  I  am  convinced,  under  this 
systeni  of  management,  trees  are  to  be  kept 
perfectly  sound  and  flourishing  : — why,  I  say  it 
is  not  likely  to  be  eradicated,  unless  it  is  takeu 


OBSERVATIONS.  93 

in  hand  by  government,  is,  because  we  are  not 
all  of  one  opinion ;  s.ome  laugh  at  the  idea  of  dis- 
coveries, and  say,  "  I  will  follow  the  old  school," 
while  others  will  despise  them  for  their  apparent 
absurdity  :  however,  time  proves  all  things,  and 
the  mortification  our  neighbours  would  feel  in 
having  their  trees  eaten  up  by  the  canker,  while 
ours  were  healthy  and  flourishing,  would  be 
perhaps  the  most  effectual  way  of  producing 
conviction,  and  thereby  bringing  the  compo- 
sition into  general  use ;  for  the  fly,  finding  our 
trees  not  in  a  fit  state  for  its  young,  would  natu- 
rally visit  those  of  our  neighbours,  who  were 
inclined  by  obstinacy  to  protect  them. 

As  this  insect  has  not  been  known  in  this 
country  above  thirty  years,  and  probably  not 
more  than  two  or  three  flies  of  each  sex  in  their 
larva  or  maggot  state  first  imported,  it  shews 
with  what  facility  it  breeds ;  for  there  is  not  a 
county  in  England  but  what  is  troubled  with 
this  insect ;  in  fact,  so  alarmingly  so,  that  few 
gentlemen  will  plant  on  a  large  scale,  knowing, 
that  when  the  trees  ought  to  be  turning  to 
profit,  they  are  going  to  decay;  the  effect  of 
which  is  already  greatly  felt  by  our  agricul- 
turalists, whose  apples ,  having  grown  on  dis- 
eased trees  will  not  keep,  and  consequently, 
for  some  years  past,  our  London  markets  have 


94  OBSERVATIONS. 

been  principally  supplied  with  foreign  apples 
all  through  the  Spring,  at  a  season  when  the 
price  would  be  of  such  signal  advantage  to  our 
farmers  ;  in  fact,  I  have  been  told  by  respec- 
table salesmen,  that  a  great  many  thousand 
pounds  worth  of  French  apples  is  brought  into 
Covent-garden  market  every  Spring,  and  the 
quantity  every  year  increases  ;  this  is  the  more 
afflicting,  when  I  know  that  by  proper  manage- 
ment, there  is  no  article  at  this  time  the  land 
could  be  cropped  with  on  a  large  scale,  which 
would  tend  to  a  greater  source  of  profit ;  and 
as  the  interest  equally  affects  the  land  owner 
and  the  occupier,  their  united  exertions  ought 
not  to  fail  in  endeavouring  to  annihilate  this 
disease. 

Although  it  has  been  thought  by  some 
nurserymen  in  the  neighbourhood  of  London, 
that  the  introduction  of  the  Chelsea  Apple 
Powder  would  be  a  great  injury  to  that  branch 
of  the  profession,  I  am  confident  they  have 
taken  a  wrong  view  of  the  subject,  for  instead 
of  diminishing,  I  am  sure  it  would  cause  a  much 
greater  demand  for  apple  trees. 

For  some  years  past,  dwarf  apple  trees  have 
been  highly  recommended  as  not  being  so  sub- 
ject to  the  canker ;  but  those  trees  in  various 


OBSERVATIONS.  95 

places,  to  my  knowledge,  are  equally  subject 
to  the  disease  as  they  become  aged,  and  con- 
sequently, in  time  people  would  become  tired 
of  planting  altogether. 

/•  * 

Before  I  finish  my  observations,  I  must  ask 

my  readers  what  we  should  lose  by  the  total 
loss  of  our  apples  :  First,  the  loss  of  one  of  the 
finest  productions  of  our  country, —  the  cider, 
for  which  we  are  so  celebrated. 

Secondly,  we  lose  the  dessert  which  this 
fruit  provides,  at  seasons  when  we  can  scarcely 
have  any  other  of  our  own  produce.  And 
lastly,  we  lose  the  pudding  and  pye,  which  we 
cannot  conveniently  procure  at  all  seasons  from 
other  fruit,  which  is  from  the  tart  on  the  King's 
table,  to  the  dumpling  made  for  the  peasant'^ 
child,  of  universal  service,  as  well  as  a  luxury. 


96  OK    PEARS. 


CHAPTER   III. 


On  Pears,    Plums,    Cherries,  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Apricots, 
Grape  Vines,  $*c.  fyc. 

ON    PEARS. 

Par.  108. — What  has  already  been  said  on  the 
culture  of  apples,  will  generally  apply  to  pears ; 
the  budding,  grafting,  pruning,  and  general 
management  being  the  same,  excepting  that 
they  are  worked  on  different  stocks.  The  stock 
which  is  generally  used,  (and  which  is  decidedly 
the  best  for  standard  pear  trees,)  is  raised  from 
the  seed  of  the  small  wild  pear,  which  like  the 
true  crab  is  more  durable  than  those  grown  from 
other  pears.  It  has  many  years  been  the  prac- 
tice in  France,  and  several  parts  of  the  Con- 
tinent, to  graft  pears  on  quince  stocks,  and  in 
this  country  they  have  been  found  to  answer 
extremely  well  as  dwarfs,  for  they  come  into 
bearing  much  earlier  than  those  on  the  pear 


ON    PEARS.  97 

stock,  and  the  fruit  exceedingly  fine,  and  by 
keeping  them  spurred  like  dwarf  apple  trees, 
they  may  be  kept  within  any  compass  you  wish, 
as  they  do  not  grow  near  so  strong  as  those  on 
the  pear  stock. 

Many  sorts  of  pears,  which  are  generally 
grown  against  walls,  have  got  the  name  of  bad 
bearers  through  bad  pruning,  it  being  a  gene- 
ral method  to  spur  them  all  indiscriminately ; 
at  the  same  time,  some  sorts  scarcely  ever 
bloom  except  at  the  extremities  of  the  young 
shoots,  therefore,  if  they  are  removed  it  is  im- 
possible to  have  fruit :  from  the  above  cause, 
I  have  seen  standard  Gansell's  Burgamots  in  the 
natural  ground,  with  a  fine  crop  of  fruit, 
while  those  against  the  wall  have  scarcely  had 
any  excepting  at  the  extremities. 

This  may  be  easily  remedied,  when  you  have 
discovered  which  sorts  bear  at  the  ends  of  the 
shoots,  by  leaving  a  sufficient  quantity  of  young 
wood  for  that  purpose. 

The  confusion  in  the  names  of  pears  is  quite 
equal  to  the  apples ;  I  shall  therefore  confine 
myself  in  the  explanatory  list  of  pears  which 
follows,  to  such  sorts  as  are  known  to  be  good  ; 
and  such  as  are  sufficient  for  all  purposes. 


98  LIST    OF    PEARS. 

EXPLANATORY    LIST    OF    PEARS. 

Par.  109. — 1.  Green  Chisel;  this  is  a  small 
green  pear,  very  full  of  juice,  and  is  remarkably 
sweet ;  it  will  ripen  in  early  seasons  in  July. 

2.  Red  Muscadelle ;  is  an  early  pear,  large 
and  handsome,  of  a  yellow  colour,  and  next 
the  sun  rather  red ;   the  flavour  is  very  rich  and 
fine  ;   it  is  ripe  about  the  end  of  July,  and  will 
frequently  produce  a  second  crop  in  the  Au- 
tumn. 

3.  Jargonelle  ;  this  is  a  fine  early  pear,  ripe 
about  August ;  it  is  of  a  green  colour  with  a  little 
russet  next  the  sun, — it  generally  bears  well. 

•!• 

4.  Windsor  Pear ;  this  is  a  very  fine  fruit  if 
eaten  in  proper  season  ;  it  is  of  a  green  colour, 
but  when  quite  ripe  turns  yellow  ;   it  should  be 
eaten  just  as  it  begins  to  change  colour,  or  it 
will  soon  become  mealy  and  good  for  nothing ; 

it  ripens  about  the  end  of  August. 

^ 

5.  Hambden   Burgamot;    this   is   rather    a 
large  pear,  fine  melting  flesh  and  full  of  juice ; 
it  is  ripe  about  the  end  of  September. 

6.  Autumn  Burgamot ;  this  pear,  which  is  o* 
rather  a  small  size,  and  handsomely  formed,  is 


LIST    OF    PEARS,  99 

one  of  the  finest  flavoured  melting  pears  in 
cultivation ;  it  is  in  perfection  in  October. 

\ 

7.  Crasanne;  this  is  a  very  fine  pear  for  the 

wall ;  the  flesh  is  very  tender,  and  full  of  fine 
sweet  juice ;  I  know  not  so  good  a  pear  in 
December  and  the  beginning  of  January. 

8.  Colmar,  is  a  fine  rich  sweet  pear;  it  is  best 
adapted  for  the  wall,  being  a  bad  bearer  as 
a  standard ;   it  is  in  perfection  about  January. 

9..  Virgoleuse ;  this  is  a  fine  melting  pear, 
full  of  rich  juice;  it  would  be  more  generally 
cultivated,  but  in  wet  seasons  they  are  very  apt 
to  crack ;  it  ripens  about  the  end  of  December. 

10,  St.  Germain  ;  this  is  a  very  fine  melting 
pear,  full  of  juice  and  a  general  bearer ;  an  east 
wall  will  bring  the  fruit  to  the  greatest  perfec- 
tion ;  at  the  same  time,  they  will  do  well  as 
standards   in   sheltered    situations;    they   are 
ready  for  the  dessert  in  December,  and  I  have 
eaten  them  in  March, 

1 1 .  Spanish  Bonchretien  ;  this  is  a  good  win- 
ter pear,  and  rather  generally  admired  ;  it  grows 
large  against  a  wall,  and  will  keep  till  January. 

F  2 


100  LIST    OF    PEARS. 

12.  Brown  Beurre;   this  is  one  of  the  best 
late   Autumn  pears   we  have ;   they  do   best 
against  a  wall,  where  they  will  grow  large,  of 
a  brown  colour,  and  rather  tinged  with  red  ;  it 
is  a  fine  juicy  melter;    and  is  in  perfection 
through  November. 

13.  Winter  Bonchretien;  this  is  highly  es- 
teemed for  its  long  keeping ;  it  is  very  large,  full 
of  rich  juice,  and  will  keep  till  June. 

14.  Chaumontelle ;   this  is  a  fine  rich  juicy 
pear ;  is  a  great  bearer  either  as  a  dwarf  or 
standard,  and  will  come  into  eating  in  December. 

15.  Poire  D'Auch  ;  this  is  a  handsome  green 
pear  of  excellent  flavour  ;  is  a  good  bearer,  and 
I  may  add,  there  are  but  few  winter  pears  which 
equal  it;  it  is  fine  from  December  to  the  end 
of  March  : — it  is  best  suited  for  the  wall. 

16.  Citron  D'Carlmes  ;  this  is  rather  a  small 
pear  of  a  greenish  colour,  it  is  a  great  bearer, 
and  is  ripe  in  July. 

17.  Williams's  Bonchretien;  this  is  a  very 
juicy  fine  pear ;  is  a  good  bearer,  and  ripens 
about  September. 


LIST    OF   PEARS.  101 

18.  Swan's  Egg;  this  pear  is  too  generally 
known  to  require  much  comment ;  it  is  of  an 
egg  shape,  and  of  a  brownish  green  colour ;  it  is 
a  melting  pear,  full  of  very  fine  flavoured  juice, 
and  one  of  the  greatest  bearers  in  cultivation;  it 
is  ripe  in  November,  and  is  good  at  Christmas, 

19.  Paddington  or  Tarling;  this  pear  is  much 
esteemed  for  its  long  keeping ;  it  is  a  handsome 
fruit  of  a  yellowish  colour  when  ripe ;  it  is  good 
from  March  till  the  end  of  May — best  suited 
for  the  wall. 

20.  Golden  Buerre ;  this  is  a  fine  fruit,  full 
of  very  fine  juice  with  melting  flesh;  it  is  in 
perfection  about  November,  and  is  a  general 
bearer  against  a  wall. 

21.  Bishop's  Thumb ;   this  pear  will  do  well 
for  wall  or  standards ;  it  is  a  long  brown  fruit, 
large  towards  the  eye,  and  tapering  towards 
the  stalk  ;  it  is  a  great  bearer,  and  is  good  in 
December. 

22.  Gansell's  Burgamot;    this  pear  for  its 
rich  melting  flesh,  and  abundance  of  fine  fla- 
voured juice,  is  decidedly  the  finest  pear  of  its 
season ;  it  is  rather  a  shy  bearer,  but  will  do  best 
against  a  wall ;    I  have  often  seen  fine  crops 


102  LIST    OF    PEARS. 

on    standards;     it    is    in  high    perfection    in 
November. 

23.  Cardiliac;  this  is  a  large  pear  generally 
used  for  baking,  and  if  they  can  be  gathered 
sound  late  in  the  Autumn,  they  will  be  good 
for  that  purpose  through  the  winter ;  it  is  a  good 
bearer,  but  being  generally  cultivated  as  stan- 
dards, and  the  fruit  growing  so  large,  the  high 
winds  are  very  apt  to  shake  them  off. 

24.  Seckle  ;  this  pear  among  the  new  varie- 
ties is  very  much  esteemed;  it  is  of  a  middling 
size,  full  of  very  fine  sweet  juice,  and  will  bear 
well  as  standards, — is  in  eating  about  October. 

25.  Maria  Louisa;  this  is  a  very  fine  pear; 
the  flesh  is  melting  and  full  of  fine  juice  ;   the 
wood  is  weeping  and  best  adapted  for  the  wall : 
at  the  present  day  it  is  esteemed  as  highly  as 
any  of  the  new  varieties,  and  will  no  doubt  be 
generally  cultivated. 

ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  PEARS. 

Those  marked  with  an  Asterisk(*)  are  described  in  the  explanatory 

List. 

Par.  110.— 

Ashton  Town  Awken 

*  Autumn  Burgamot  Beurre  De  Roi 


PLUMS. 


103 


*Bishop's  Thumb 

Bloody 

Britannia 

Brocas  Burgamot 
*Brown  Beurre 

Burdelieu 
*Cardiiiac 

Catherine 
*Chaumontelle 
*Colmar 

Colmar  D.  Pache 
*Cresanne 

*  Citron  De  Carlmes 
Dauphine 

*D'Auch  or  Poire  D'  Audi 
Delicis  Lardenpont 
Dutch  Burgamot 
*GanselPs  Burgamot 
Germain  Muscal 

^Golden  Beurre 
Gray  Beurre 

*  Green  Chisel 
*Hambden  Burgamot 

Holland  Burgamot 


^Jargonelle 

Lammas 

La  Pastorelle 

Little  Muscat 
*Maria  Louisa 

Moorfowl  Egg 

Napoleon 

Orange  Burgamot 
*Paddington  or  Tarling 

Quos  Madam 
*Red  Muscadelle 
*Seckle2 

*  Spanish  Bonchretien 
*St.  Germain 

Summer  Burgamot 
*  Swan's  Egg 
*Uveders  St.  Germain 
*Vanmons 

Vergoleuse 

Vine  Pear 

Williams'  Bonchretien 
*Windsor 

*Winter  Bonchretien 

WinterRusselet 


PLUMS. 


Par.  Ill . — We  have  not  to  complain  so  much 
of  the  coming  of  names  for  plums,  as  for  apples 
and  pears  :  nevertheless,  a  confused  nomencla- 
ture has  found  its  way  among  them ;  however, 
I  trust  what  I  shall  mention  in  the  explanatory 


104  PLUMS. 

list  will  be  so  clearly  described,  that  every 
person  will  be  satisfied  of  his  competency  to 
decide  on  each  particular  sort  when  he  sees 
the  fruit ;  and  more  especially  as  plums  cannot 
be  so  easily  mistaken,  because  the  soils  or 
situation  will  not  have  the  same  effect  in 
changing  their  character,  as  they  have  on  some 
other  fruits. 

EXPLANATORY    LIST    OF    PLUMS. 

Par.  112. — Orleans;  this  plum  is  a  fine  large 
rich  fruit,  it  is  a  great  bearer,  and  good  for  all 
purposes. 

2.  Fotheringham,  is  a  very  good  plum  ;  it  is 
of  a  dark  red  colour,  of  excellent  flavour,  and 
is  a  tolerable  bearer. 

3.  Blue  Perdigron ;  this  plum  is  of  a  very 
dark  blue  colour,  is  good  flavoured,  and  ripens 
in  August. 

4.  White  Bonum  Magnum,  or  Egg  Plum ; 
this  is  a  very  great  bearer,  the  fruit  is  large,  in 
the  form  of  an  egg,  and  very  handsome ;  it  is 
not  a  bad  eating  plum,  though  it  is  principally 
used  for  baking  ;  it  ripens  in  September. 

5.  Red  Bonum  Magnum,  or  Red  Imperial ; 


PLUMS.  105 

this  is  a  large  red  plum  in  the  form  of  an  egg, 

is  a  good  bearer,  but  like  the  white,  it  is  princi- 
pally used  for  culinary  purposes;  it  ripens 
early  in  October. 

6.  La  Royale  ;  is  a  very  fine  flavoured  plum 
of  a  red  colour ;  this  being  rather  tender  in  the 
bloom,  it  succeeds  best  against  a  west  wall ;  it 
ripens  late  in  September. 

7.  Apricot  Plum;  this  is  a  large  fine  plum,  but 
Botmuch  cultivated  on  account  of  its  shy  bearing. 

8.  Drap    d'Or;    this    plum    is    very    much 
admired  and  is  a  general  bearer,  particularly 
against  a  wall ;  it  ripens  late  in  September. 

9.  Green  Gage;  this  plum  is  too  well  known 
to  require  much  being  said  of  it ;  it  is  decidedly 
the  finest  plum  in  cultivation ;    it  ripens  late  in 
August. 

10.  Blue  Imperatrice  ;  this  is  one  of  the  best 
late  plums  we  have  ;  it  is  best  adapted  for  the 
wall,  and  when  perfectly  ripe,  there  is  no  plum 
of  its  season  equal  to  it  for  sweetness ;  it  ripens 
in  October,  and  I  have  eaten  fine  ones  from  the 
trees  in  the  middle  of  November. 

F3 


106  PLUMS. 

11.  Brignole ;  this  plumb  when  thoroughly 
ripe  is  like  a  sweetmeat,   but  it  is  not  a  very 
good  bearer  •  it  ripens  in  September. 

12.  Saint  Catharine;  this  is  a  good  plum  and 
is  a  good  bearer;  it  is  ripe  in  September,  and 
will  hang  a  long  time  on  the  tree. 

13.  Winesour;  this  plum  is  much  esteemed 
for  preserving ;  it  is  a  late  plum,  and  is  a  good 
bearer. 

14.  La  Mirabelle;   this  is  a  handsome  small 
yellow  plum,  very  full  of  juice ;  it  is  ripe  about 
the  middle  of  September  and  is  a  good  bearer. 

15.  Coe's  Golden  Drop ;  this  plum  is  of  a 
fine  amber  colour,  much  in  the  form  of  the  white 
egg  plum,  and  of  about  half  the  size ;  they  bear 
well  as  standards  or  against  the  wall,  and  when 
ripe,  the  flavour  is  very  fine,  and  certainly  the 
most  beautiful  plum  for  the  dessert  of  its  sea- 
son ;  it  ripens  towards  the  end  of  September. 

16.  Kirke's  fine  Red  t^lam;  this  plum,  which 
comes  in  just  after  the  Orleans T  is  large,  fine 
flavoured,  and  is  a  good  bearer ;    it  deserves 
to  be  brought  into  general  cultivation. 


LIST    OF    PLUMS.  J07 

17.  Street's  Plum,  or  St.  Lowe;  this  plum,, 
which  is  a  great  bearer,  exceeds  all  I  ever  saw 
for  size  ;  it  is  much  in  the  form  of  the  Orleans, 
but  considerably  larger  and  very  handsome ;  it 
is  of  a  red  colour,  and  generally  carries  a  good 
bloom  on  the  fruit ;   they  bear  well  as  stand- 
ards, or  against  the  wall ;  it  ripens  about  Sep- 
tember. 

18.  Blue  Gage;    this  is   a  most  excellent 
plum  for  the  wall,  the  flavour  is  very  fine,  and 
it  is  generally  a  good  bearer. 

19.  Early   Orleans;    this    is  rather   earlier 
than  the  old  Orleans  plum ;  it  is  a  good  bearer, 
and  the  fruit  is  very  much  admired. 

20.  Yellow  Orleans  ;  this  is  a  beautiful  trans- 
parent plum,  nearly  as  large  as  the  old  Orleans, 
good  flavoured,  and  very  handsome  for  the  des- 
sert ;  it  will  bear  well  as  a  standard  ;  it  ripens 
about  September. 

ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  PLUMS. 

Those  marked  with  an  Asterisk  (*)  are  described  in  the  explanatory 

List. 

Par.  113.- 

Admirable  Avone 

*Apricot  Plum  *Blue  Perdigron 


108 


CHERRIES, 


*Brignole 
*Blue  Gage 
*Blue  Imperatrice 
Blue  Matchless 

*  Catharine 

*Coe's  Golden  Drop 
*Drap  D'Or 

Early  Amber 
*Fotheringham 

Goliah 

*  Green  Gage 
Gross  Mirabelle 
Jaune  Hative 

*Kirke's  large  Red 

Kirke's  fine  new  American 
*La  Mirabelle 
*La  Royale 
*Magnum  Bonum  White 

*  Magnum  Bonum  Red 
Mirabelle 
Morocco 


*Orleans  Red 
* Early 

New  Early 

* Yellow 

Precos  De  Tours 

Pruin 

Queen  Mother 

Reain  Claude  Violet 

Red  Diaper 

Royal  Dauphin 
*  Street's  Large  Red 

Sharp's  Emperor 

S  toneless 

Violet 

White  Bullace 

White  Damson 

White  Imperatrice 

White  Pear 

White  Perdigron 
*Wine  Sour 

Yellow  Gage 


CHERRIES. 

Par.  114. — The  culture  of  cherries  in  this 
country  being  rather  large,  and  profitable  to 
grow,  it  is  necessary  to  make  a  few  observations 
on  the  constitution  of  this  tree. 

There  is  no  fruit  tree  I  know  of  more  subject 
to  gum  than  the  cherry,  which  is  frequently 


CHERRIES.  109 

caused  by  the  land,  particularly  if  the  bottom 
is  strong  clay;  the  most  essential  point  to  be 
observed  in  planting  orchards  of  this  fruit,  is  to 
select  those  trees  which  have  been  budded 
standard  high,  for  those  budded  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  ground,  and  trained  up  for  -stan- 
dards, are  very  liable  to  sink  below  the  bud, 
which  is  almost  sure  to  cause  the  tree  to  decay 
early. 

Likewise,  this  should  always  be  observed  in 
planting  of  dwarf  trained  cherries,  to  keep  the 
bud  or  graft  a  few  inches  above  the  surface  of 
the  earth ;  for  if  cherries  once  begin  to  gum* 
they  seldom  recover.  I  have  given  a  description 
of  some  of  the  best  sorts,  which  will  be  found 
in  the  explanatory  list. 

There  is  no  stock  so  durable  for  budding 
and  grafting  cherries  on  as  the  small  wild 
black  cherry,  the  seed  of  which  should  always 
be  selected  for  that  purpose. 

EXPLANATORY    LIST    OF    CHERRIES. 

Par.  115. —  I.  May-duke;  this  cherry  which 
ripens  early  in  June  against  a  south  wall,  is  one 
of  the  best  cherries  in  cultivation :  they  are 
great  bearers  as  standards,  and  the  flavour  is 
very  fine. 


110  CHERRIES. 

2.  Ronald's  Black  heart  or  Circassian ;  this 
is  a  fine  large  black  cherry  and  good  bearer; 
it  would  deserve  general  cultivation,  but  the 
wood  in  some  soils  is  very  apt  to  decay;   it 
ripens  early  in  July. 

3.  Black  heart ;  this  is  a  well  known  good 
fruit,  handsome,  and  a  good  bearer. 


4.  Arch-duke ;  this  is  an  exceeding  fine 
cherry,  larger  than  the  may-duke,  and  a  good 
bearer;  it  is  not  properly  in  perfection  till 
July.  This  is  a  valuable  cherry  to  grow  for 
the  market. 


5.  Morella;  this  cherry  is  one  of  the  greatest 
bearers,  either  as  standards,  or  against  a  wall, 
we  have  in  cultivation;  it  is  large  and  hand- 
some,  and  in  the  month  of  October  is  nearly 
black, — at  this  season  it  is  a  great  addition  to 
the  dessert ;  it  is  also  fine  for  tarts   and  j>re- 
serving,    and  by  far  the  best  for  putting  in 
brandy. 

6.  Bleeding  Heart;  this  is  a  very  fine  fruit, 
is  ripe  about  the  middle  of  July,  but  it  is  not  a 
general  bearer. 

7.  Harrison's  Heart ;  this  by  many  persons  is 


CHERRIES.  Ill 

considered  a  very  fine  cherry ;  it  comes  in  late 
for  the  dessert,  being  ripe  in  August. 

8.  Black  Coroon ;  this  is  a  very  fine  cherry, 
and  generally  is  a  good  bearer ;  it  ripens  in  July 
and  August. 

9.  Biggerow ;  this  is  a  very  fine  cherry,  and  is 
a  great  ornament  to  the  dessert  in  July ;  they 
will  do  well  as  standards,  but  the  fruit  will 
come  finer  against  a  west  wall . 

10.  Kentish;  the  wood  of  this  cherry  very 
much  resembles  the  wood  of  the  Morella,  and 
is  one  of  the  best  to  plant  for  orchards,  the  con- 
stitution of  the  tree  being  strong,  and  the  de- 
mand for  the  fruit  great,  being  consumed  in 
large  quantities  for  kitchen  purposes ;  it  like- 
wise very  much   resembles  the   Flemish,  for 
which  it  is  a  good  substitute,  being  a  better 
cherry  and  a  better  bearer. 

1 1 .  Florence ;  this  is  a  most  beautiful  cherry 
for  the  dessert,  and  will  bear  well  as  standards, 
but  the  fruit  will  grow  larger  against  the  wall,, 
— the  flavour  is  excellent. 

12.  Waterloo;    this    cherry  is    one  of  the 
fine  productions  of  Mr.  Knight;   it  is  a  very 


112 


LIST    OF    CHERRIES. 


fine  sweet  flavoured  fruit,   and   tolerably  pro- 
ductive. 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  CHERRIES. 

Those  marked  with  an  Asterisk  (*)  are  described  in  the  explanatory 

List. 

Par.  116.— 

Adam's  Crown 
Anfoer  Heart 

*  Arch-duke 
*Biggerow 
*Black  Coroon 

Black  Eagle 
*Black  Heart 
Black  Tartarian 

*  Bleeding  Heart 
Carnation 
Churchill's  Heart 
Double  Blossom 
Early  May 
Elton 

Flemish 
*Florence 

- 

Graffion 
Harrison's  Heart 


Holman's  late  Duke 

*  Kentish 
Kensington  Duke 
Knight's  new  Black 
Lady  Southampton's 

Duke 
*May-duke 

Montmorencie 
*Morella 

Ox  Heart 

*  Ronald's  Black  Heart  or 

Circassian 
Waterloo 
Weeping 

Wentworth  Heart 
White  Heart 

M 

White  Tartarian 


APRICOTS. 

Par.  117.  —  Various  have  been  the  opinions 

respecting    the     stocks     generally    used     for 

budding  apricots,    as   they  will   grow  on  the 

fv£*7>,  muscle,  the  Brussels,  and  the  common  plum 


~-<  •*"*"**** 


*f~r~rj&*^'»,   Af4-?j 


LIST    OF    APRICOTS.  113 

stock  ;  but  it  is  a  general  opinion  (and  not  with- 
out foundation)  that  those  budded  on  the 
Brussels  stock  are  more  liable  to  decay. 

Having  tried  the  whole  of  the  above  stocks 
for  years  past,  I  find  none  so  well  suited  for 
Apricots  as  the  common  plum  stock,  usually 
called  commoners,  except  the  Royal  Orange, 
which  does  best  on  the  muscle ;  there  maybe  many 
who  will  not  agree  with  my  recommending  the 
common  plum  before  the  muscle,  for  the  Moor 
Park,  but  I  give  it  the  decided  preference. 

EXPLANATORY    LIST    OF    APRICOTS. 

Par.  118. — Moor  Park;  this  apricot  is  con- 
sidered decidedly  the  best  in  cultivation ; 
it  is  a  very  great  bearer,  the  fruit  is  very  fine, 
and  deserves  to  be  recommended  before  any 
other  ; — it  ripens  about  the  middle  of  August. 

I  have  seen  the  Moor  Park  bear  well  a* 
standards  in  the  open  ground. 

2.  Peach  Apricot;  this  is  a  fine  large  apricot, 
very,  much  like  the  Moor  Park,  and  ripens 
about  the  same  time. 

3.  Turkey  ;  this  is  a  tolerably  good  apricot, 


LIST    OF    APRICOTS. 

of  rather  a  deep   colour,  but  not  very  full  of 
juice,  —  it  ripens  late  in  August. 

4.  Red  Masculine  ;    this   should   always  be 
planted  'amongst  a  collection,  for  it  comes  in 
earlier  than  most  other  sorts  ;  it  is  a  small  fruit, 
red  towards  the  sun  when  ripe,  and  is  esteemed 
for  being  ready  before  other  sorts,  —  it  ripens 
in  July. 

5.  Algiers  ;    this    is   a    yellow   apricot,    of 
rather  a  flat  shape,  and  good  flavour  ;  it  ripens 
in  August. 


6.  Small  Orange  Apricot;    this  is   a 
bearer,  and  is  grown  principally  for  preserving, 
and  tarts. 

7.  Royal  Orange  ;  this  is  a  fine  apricot  of  a 
yellow  colour,  —  it  is  ripe  in  August. 

8.  Roman  ;  this  is  a  large  yellow  apricot  of  a 
good  flavour,  —  it  is  ripe  about  the  middle  of 
August. 


;  *Breda  ;  this  is  an  excellent  apricot,  large, 
of  a  yellow  colour,  full  of  fine  flavoured  juice, 
and  is  a  good  bearer,  —  ripe  about  the  end 


LIST    OF    APRICOTS.  117 

of  August:    it   may  be  planted   as  an  open 
standard. 

17.  Brussels;  this  is  rather  a  small  apricot, 
but  is  a  very  great  bearer,  and  is  generally 
preferred  for  planting  as  standards,  in  the  open 
ground ;  it  is  of  a  red  colour  towards  the  sur^ 
and  looks  very  handsome  on  the  trees  ;  it  has 
a  tart  flavour  which  is  generally  admired  when 
grown  on  the  open  standards, — it  is  ripe  in 
September. 

ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  APRICOTS. 

Those  marked  with  an  Asterisk  (*)  are  described  in  the  explanatory 

List. 
Par.  -119.— 

Alberge  Persian 

*Algiers  Portugal 

Black  Provence 

*Breda  *lled  Masculine 

*Brussels  *  Roman 

Dutch  *  Royal  Orange 

Gold  Blotched  Leaved  Temple 

Graver's  Breda  Transparent 

*Moor  Park  *Turkey 

*0range  White  Masculine 
*Peach 

PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES. 

Par.  120. — Peaches  and  Nectarines  being  so 
much  alike  in  nature  and  cultivation,  what  is 
said  of  one  will  equally  apply  to  the  other ; 


116       PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES. 

it  appears  from  the  best  authorities,  that  the 
almond  was  the  original  parent  of  the  above 
fruits,  and  they  grow  freely  budded  on  the 
almond  stock,  but  they  are  far  more  durable 
when  budded  on  the  plum.  To  enter  here  into 
a  detail  of  the  different  peaches  and  nectarines 
which  grow  best  on  the  different  sorts  of  plums, 
would  be  wholly  unnecessary,  as  I  do  not 
consider  myself  as  writing  complete  and  full 
instructions  to  render  every  one  of  my  readers 
competent  to  fill  the  arduous  labours  of  a  nur- 
seryman, and  to  particularize  each  would  rather 
tend  to  confuse  than  inform ;  suffice  it  to  say, 
that  neither  peach  or  nectarine  will  succeed  on 
the  Brussels  Stock,  and  the  stocks  generally 
used  for  peaches  and  nectarines  which  they 
like  most  are  the  Muscle  and  Pear  plums. 

It  often  occurs,  that  peaches  and  nectarines 
swell  too  large  for  the  stock  they  are  budded  on ; 
this  plainly  denotes  the  stock  is  not  suited  to 
the  constitution  of  that  variety ;  and  this  the 
nurserymen  in  the  neighbourhood  of  London 
have  made  their  study,  and  have  brought  it  to 
that  perfection,  as  to  give  them  a  decided  supe- 
riority over  most  of  their  country  contempora- 
ries, who,  generally  speaking,  have  not  suffi- 
cient practice  in  this  department ;  indeed  it  is 
no  small  matter  of  consideration,  for  it  is  not 


LIST    OF    PEACHES.  117 

only  the  sum  paid  for  the  trees,  but  the  morti- 
fication (which  can  only  be  known  to  those 
who  have  experienced  it)  after  having  planted 
the  trees  a  few  years,  of  seeing  them  diseased 
and  gradually  dwindling  away.  Peaches  will 
grow  by  grafting,  but  they  never  do  well,  being 
sure  to  gum,  and  get  diseased  where  the  scion 
is  put  on  the  stock.  In  the  explanatory  list 
will  be  found  a  description  of  the  best  sorts, 
with  their  seasons  for  ripening,  &c. 

EXPLANATORY  LIST  OF   PEACHES. 

Par.  121 — Noblesse  ;  this  peach  is  large  and 
handsome,  of  a  red  colour  where  they  are  ex- 
posed to  the  sun  ;  it  is  a  fine  melter,  and  very  full 
of  rich  juice ;  it  is  a  good  bearer,  and  ripens 
early  in  September. 

2.  Montauban  ;  this  is  a  fine  melting  peach, 
and  full  of  juice,  of  a  deep  red  towards  the  sun ; 
it  is  agood bearer,  and  ripens earlyin  September. 

3.  Vanguard;  this  peach  is  in  every  respect 
so  much  like  the  Noblesse  that  many  persons 
think  it  the  same,  but  it  is  not ;  the  tree  is 
rather  of  stronger  growth,  and  the  fruit  some- 
thing larger  ;  there  is  but  little  difference  in 
their  time  for  getting  ripe. 


118  LIST    OF    PEACHES. 

4.  Red  Nutmeg  ;  this  is  a  small  peach  of  a 
deep  red  colour,  and  a  good  bearer ;  it  ripens 
early  in  August,  for  which  it  is  much  esteemed. 

5.  Early  Ann ;    this   peach   is  admired  for 
being  early ;  it  is  a  good  peach,  and   ripens 
about  the  middle  of  August. 

6.  Royal  George  ;  this  is  a  fine  old  peach,  of 
a  high  colour  next  to  the  sun  ;    it  is  full  of  fine 
sweet  juice,  a  good  bearer,  and  ripens  early. 

7.  French  Mignonne;  this  is  a  large  beautiful 
peach  of  a  red  colour,  a  fine  melter,  and  full  of 
sweet  juice ;  it  is  a  good  bearer,  and  ripens  late 
in  August 

8.  Royal  Kensington;   this  is  a    very   fine 
peach,  and  considered  by  many  persons  to  be 
the  same  as  the  French  Mignonne  ;  some  trees 
being  sent  from  France  as  a  present  to  her  Ma- 
jesty, Queen  Charlotte,  it  was  called  the  Royal 
Kensington. 

9.  Bourdine;  this  is  a  fine  melting  peach,  of 
a  red  colour  next  to  the  sun ;    it  is  a   great 
bearer,  and  ripens  about  the  end  of  Septem- 
ber. 


LIST    OF    PEACHES.  119 

10.  Red  Magdalen  ;   this  is  a  large  beautiful 
peach,  of  a  deep  red  colour,  full  of  fine  rich 
juice,  and  ripens  early  in  September.     I  have 
seen  this  peach  bear  plentifully  on  standards 
in  the  open  ground. 

X 

1 1 .  Chancellor  ;  this  is  a  fine  old  peach,  with 
melting  flesh,  full  of  rich  juice,  and  very  hand- 
some ;  it  ripens  early  in  September. 

12.  Rosanna ;  this  is   one  of  the    greatest 
bearers  in  cultivation;  it  is  of  a  deep  purple 
next  the  sun,  and  is  considered  a  good  peach ; 
it  will  bear  _well  as  a  standard   in  the  open 
ground  ; — it  ripens  in  September. 

i 

13.  Early   Gallande ;   this  peach    is  highly 
esteemed,   and   is   certainly   one  of  the    best 
peaches  we  have ;   it  is  a  great  bearer,  very 
handsome,  and  ripens  early  in  September. 

14.  La  Teton  de  Venus ;  this  is  a  fine  rich 
peach,  rather  a  long  form,  of  a  pale  red,  and 
ripens  late  in  September. 

15.  Early  Admirable;   this  is  a  large  fine 
peach,  of  a  beautiful  red  colour  next  the  sun  ; 
it  is  full  of  fine  sweet  juice,  and  ripens  early 
in  September. 


120  LIST    OF    PEACHES. 

16.  Monstrous  Pavie  of  Pompone;    this   is 
called  by  our  market  gardeners  a  Cling-stone 
Peach,  but  the  French  call  all  Pavies  which  do 
not  come  clean  from  the  stone ;  it  is  cultiva- 
ted more  for  its  size  and  beauty,  than  its  excel- 
lence ;   it  ripens  about  the  middle  of  October. 

17.  Grimwood's  Royal    George;   this  is   a 
very  fine  melting  peach,  a  great  bearer,  and 
ripens  late  in  August. 

18.  Catharine;  this  is  a  late  good  peach,  but 
will  adhere  to   the  stone;   it  is  of  a  fine  red 
colour  towards  the  sun,  is   rich,    and   full  of 
juice  ;  it  ripens  late  in  October. 

19.  Late  Admirable ;  this  is  a  very  fine  melt- 
ing peach,  handsome,  full  of  juice,  and  ripens 
late  in  September. 

20.  Old  Newington;  this  peach  is  handsome, 
and  of  a  deep  red  towards  the  sun ;   it  is  tole- 
rably full  of  juice,  but  it  will  adhere  to  the 
stone ; — it  ripens  about  the  end  of  September. 

21.  Double  Swalsh  ;  this  is  a  very  fine  melt- 
ing peach, — is  ripe  early  in  September. 

22.  Smooth  leaved  Royal  George;  this  is 


LIST    OF    PEACHES.  121 

most  excellent  peach,  full  of  fine  rich  juice, 
handsome,  and  one  of  the  greatest  bearers  we 
have, — it  is  ripe  early  in  September. 

23.  Violet  Hative ;  this  is  a  fine  high  coloured 
peach,  melting  flesh,  with  an  abundance  of  rich 
juice;   it  is  a  good  bearer,  and  ripens  late  in 
August. 

24.  Millet's  Mignion ;  this  is  a  very  fine  large 
melting  peach,  and   excellent  for  forcing,   it 
not  being  so  subject  to  mildew  as  some  sorts  ;  it 
is  a  good  bearer, — is  ripe  early  in  September. 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  PEACHES. 

Those  marked  with  an  Asterisk  (*)  are  described  in  the  explanatory 

List. 

Par.  122.- 

Acton  Scot  Downton 

Belgarde  *Early  Admirable 

Bell  Chevreux  * Ann 

*Bourdine  Avant 

Braddick's  Purple  Avant 

BuckinghamshireMignion     * Gallande 

Catharine Purple 

*  Chancellor  Newington 

Double  Blossom  *French  Mignion 

* Swalsh  *GrimwoocTs  Royal  George 

Montagne  Gross  Mignion 

G 


122  LIST  OF  NECTARINES, 

f    Incomparable  *Nutmeg  Red 

Java  White 

*Late  Admirable  *Red  Magdalen 

Late  Gallande  *Rosanna 

fLa  Teton  D1  Venus  *  Royal  Kensington 

Lome's  Large  Melter  *Royal  George 

*Millet<ls  Mignion  *  Smooth    Leaved     Royal 
*Monstrous  Pavie  of  Pom-  George 

pone  ^Vanguard 

^Montauban  *  Violet  Hative 

*Newington  White  Magdalen 

Nivette  Yellow  Alberge 

*Noblesse 


EXPLANATORY    LIST    OF    NECTARINES. 

Par.  123. — 1.  Elruge  ;  this  is  one  of  the  finest 
nectarines  we  have  ;  it  is  of  a  good  size,  and  a 
great  bearer ;  the  colour  is  a  dark  red  towards 
the  sun,  and  a  yellowish  green  next  the  wall ; 
the  flesh  is  fine  and  melting,  and  full  of  sweet 
juice  ;  it  ripens  late  in  August :  it  is  also  a  fine 
nectarine  for  forcing. 

% 

2.  Newington;  this  is  a  very  good  nectarine, 
and  a  great  bearer,  of  a  fine  red  colour, — it  ad- 
heres to  the  stone,  but  is  full  of  fine  sweet 
juice  ;   it  ripens  early  in  September. 

3.  Red  Roman ;   this  is  an  old  well  known 
good  nectarine,  of  a  deep  red  or  purple  next 


LIST    OF    NECTARINES.  123 

the  sun,  and  rather  yellow  on  the  wall  side ;  it  is 
a  good  bearer,  and  ripens  early  in  September. 

4.  Brugnion ;  this  is  a  good  nectarine,  of  a 
deep  red  towards  the  sun,  and  a  pale  yellow 
next  to  the  wall ;  it  is  fine  eating  when  full  ripe 
from  the  tree,  but  soon  loses  its  flavour  after 
\t  is  gathered  ;  it  ripens  late  in  August. 

5.  Murrey  ;  this  is  a  very  fine  nectarine,  of 
a  purple  colour  towards  the  sun,  large,  a  good 
bearer,  full  of  fine  sweet  juice,  and  may  be 
considered  one  of  the  best ;  it  ripens  early  in 
September. 

6.  Golden   or    T  emple   Nectarine ;   this  is 
handsome,  of  a  light  red  towards  the  sun,  and 
yellow  on  the  wall  side ;  it  has  plenty  of  juice* 
and  is  generally  admired ;  it  ripens   late  in 
September. 

7.  Violet  Hative  ;   this  is  a  most  excellent 
nectarine,  of  a  deep  red  towards  the  sun;  it  is 
a  fine  rich  melting  fruit,  full  of  sweet  juice, 
and  a  good  bearer ;  it  ripens  late  in  'August. 

8.  Fairchild's  Early;  this  is  a  small  early 
,  nectarine,  of  a  fine  red  colour,  the  flesh  is  melt- 

G  2 


124  GRAPE     VINES. 

ing  and  full  of  fine  juice  ;  is  ripe  about  the  mid- 
dle of  August. 

9.  Vermash  ;  this  is  a  fine  late  nectarine,  of  a 
green  colour,  a  little  inclined  to  red  towards 
the  sun  ;  it  ripens  late  in  September. 

10.  Italian  ;  this  is  a  fine  large  nectarine,  of 
a  deep  red  next  the  sun,  full  of  rich  juice,  and 
is   greatly  admired ;   it  ripens  early  in  Sep- 
tember. 

ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  NECTARINES. 

Those  marked  with  an  Asterisk  (*)  are  described  in  the  explanatory 

List. 

Par.  124.— 

Aromatic  *!  New  White 

Brugnion  Old  White 

*Elruge  Peterborough 

*Fairchild's  Early  *Roman 

Genoese  St.  Omers 

*Italian  *Temple 

*  Murrey  *  Violet  Hative 

Newfoundland  *  Vermash 
*Newington 

GRAPE    VINES. 

Par.  125c— The  principal  part  of  this  deli- 
cious fruit  is  grown  in  hot-houses  and  vineries, 
as  our  climate  will  not  admit  of  their  coming  to 


GRAPE    VINES.  125 

perfection  in  the  open  air,  excepting  a  few 
sorts.  Those  will  be  found  in  the  explanatory 
list  which  will  suit  the  different  situations  best- 

I  know  of  no  grape  for  the  open  wall  to 
equal  the  Royal  Muscadine ;  it  seldom  fails  to 
ripen,  is  a  great  bearer,  and  a  most  excellent 
grape  for  the  dessert ;  it  also  makes  very 
fine  wine. 

EXPLANATORY  LIST  OF   GRAPE  VINES. 

Those  marked  with  W.  are  for  the  Watt — those  V.  are  for  the 
Vinery— and  those  H.  are  for  the  Hothouse. 

Par.  126. — 1.  Royal  Muscadine,  by  some 
called  the  Malmsey ;  this  is  an  excellent  grape 
for  the  wall  or  vinery,  the  berries  when  ripe 
are  of  an  amber  colour,  large,  round,  and  very 
fine  flavoured  ;  it  is  one  of  the  best  white  grapes 
we  have  for  the  open  wall,  for  it  is  a  great 
bearer  and  seldom  fails  to  ripen.  W.  V.  H. 

2.  Black  Muscadine  ;  this  is  a  great  bearer, 
and  will  often  ripen  against  the  open  wall ;   the 
berries  are  handsome,  having  a  very  fine  purple 
bloom.    V. 

3.  Black  Damascus  ;  this  is  a  very  fine  large 
black    grape,    full    of  rich  juice,  and  highly 
esteemed.     H. 


126  GRAPE    VINES. 

4.  White  Muscat  of  Alexandria ;  this  grape 
is  in   high  estimation  for  the  hot-house,  the 
berries  are  of  a  fine  oval  shape,  the  bunches 
long  and  large,  and  the  flavour  much  admired. 
H. 

5.  White  Muscat ;  this  is  a  good  bearer,  with 
large  berries  of  rather  an  amber  colour.  V.  H. 

6.  White    Chasselas,    called    by  some  the 
White  Muscadine ;  this  is  a  very  good  grape 
for  the  wall,  the  berries  rather  resemble  the 
Royal  Muscadine,  but  are  not  so  large.     W. 

7.  Red  Muscat ;  this  grape  is  red,  with  oval 
shaped  berries.     H. 

8.  The  Black  Tripoli;    this  is  a  very  fine 
black  grape,  with  large  berries,  full  of  fine  rich 
juice.     H. 

9.  Black  Muscadel   has  rather  a   peculiar 
flavour,  but  is  generally  considered  pleasant, 
the  berries  are  black,  of  an  oval  shape,  and 
large.     H. 

10.  Red  Muscadel ;  the  bunches  of  this  grape 
gro'w  very  large,  and  likewise  the  berries,  which 
are  red.  £T. 


GRAPE    VINES.  127 

11.  Black  Alicant  or  Spanish;  this  is  a  tole- 
rably large  sized  black  grape,  and  the  flavour 
very  generally  admired.     V.  H* 

12.  Black  Frontinac;     the  berries  of  this 
grape  are  not  very  large,  full  of  fine  rich  juice, 
and  are  greatly  admired.      V.  H. 

13.  White   Frontinac;    the  berries  of  this 
grape  are  small  and  round,  the  bunches  grow 
long  and  tolerably  large  ;  the  juice  has  a  very 
peculiar  flavour,  but  is,  highly  esteemed.      W. 


14.  Grizzly  Frontinac  ;  this  grape  is  rather 
of  a  brown  red  colour,  very  fine,  and  generally 
admired.    V.  H. 

15.  Red  Frontinac;  the  berries  of  this  grape 
are  rather  large,  of  a  dingy  red  colour  ;*  it  is 
considered  a  very  fine  grape.     V.  H. 

16.  Black  Hamburgh  ;   this  grape,   for  the 
hothouse  or  vinery,  cannot  be  excelled;  the 
berries  are  large,  round,  and  handsome,  and 
the  bunches  well  formed  :  it  is  a  great  bearer, 
and  of  excellent  flavour.      V.  H. 

17.  Red  Hamburgh  ;  this  is  a  tolerably  good 


GRAPE    VINES. 

grape,   the  berries  are  of  a  dark  red  colour. 
V.  H. 

18.  White  Sweet  Water;  the  flavour  of  this 
grape  is  most  excellent,  the  berries  are  of  a 
tolerable  size,  but.  the  bunches  do  not  grow 
handsomely.  W.  V.  H. 

19-  New  White  Sweet  Water;  this  is  a  most 
excellent  grape,  a  great  bearer,  and  the  bunches 
not  so  irregular  as  the  former.  W.  V.  H. 

20.  Black  Sweet  Water;   this  grape  has  a 
small  sweet  berry  which  is  very  liable  to  crack, 
consequently  against  the  open  wall  is  much 
destroyed   by  birds   and  flies;    it  is  an  early 
grape.   W.   V. 

21.  Black    Cluster;   this  is  a  small  black 
grape,  a  great  bearer,  and  covered  when  ripe 
with  a  fine  bloom.    W. 

22.  White  Raisin;  the  berries  of  this   grape 
are  very  large,  with  a  thick  skin,  the  bunches 
also  grow  very  large  and  handsome.  H. 

23.  Claret;   this  grape  has  small  blackber- 
ries, with  red  juice  ;  it  is  not  an  agreeable  fruit 
to  eat,  but  makes  excellent  wine.  V.  H. 


GRAPE    VINES.  129 

24.  Lombardy;   this  is  a  large  red  grape, 
the  bunches  grow  very  large  and  are  full  of 
rich  juice.   V.  H. 

25.  St.  Peter's ;    this  grape  is  very  black 
when  ripe,  the  berries  are  large,  of  an  oval 
shape,  and  the  bunches  very  large  ;  it  is  a  good 
grape.  V.  H. 

26.  West's  St.  Peter's ;  this  is  a  fine  black 
grape,  now   in  high    estimation,  the  bunches 
come  fine,  the  berries  large,  and  flavour  excel- 
lent. V.  H. 

%7.  Sir  Abraham  Pitcher's ;  this  is  a  large 
fine  black  grape,  and  greatly  admired.  V.  H. 

28.  Black  Prince;  this  is  one  of  the  best  black 
grapes   for  the   natural    wall,   as    it    seldom 
fails  to   ripen,   the  bunches   grow  large,  par- 
cularly  in  the  vinery,  and  the  berries,  which  are 
tolerably  large,  are  full  of  fine  sweet  juice  ;  it 
is  now  very  much  in  request.    W.    V.  H. 

29.  White  Tokay;  this  is  a  fine  grape  of  very 
delicate  appearance,  but  rather  a  bad  bearer.  V. 

30.  Black  Portugal ;    the    berries    of   this 
grape,  are  of  a  middling  size,  and  in  favourable 


130 


LIST    OF    GRAPE    VINES. 


seasons  will  ripen  against  the  natural  wall ;  it  is 
a  good  grape.   W.   V.  H. 


ALPHABETICAL   LIST  OF  GRAPE  VINES. 

Those  marked  with  andsterisk(*)are  described  in  the  expla?ialory 

List. 

Par.  127.- 

Aleppo 
*Black  Alicant 

Cluster 

* Damascus 

Esperion 

Frankendali 

*— Frontinac  or  Mus- 
cat Noir 

Gibraltar 

*— —  Hamburgh 

• —  Lisbon 

Morillon 

Morocco 

* Muscadel 

Muscadine 

•  Muscat 

* Portugal 

* Prince 

* Sir  Abm.  Pitcher's 

* St.  Peter's 

* Sweet  Water 

* Tripoli 

*Chasselas 


*Claret 

*  Grizzly  Frontinac 
Golden  Galacian 

*Lombardy 

Malmsey 

Miller's  Burgundy 

Malvoise  or  Blue  Tokay 

Muscat  of  Alexandria 

Muscatelle 

*New  White  Sweet  Water 
*Red  Frontinac  or  Muscat 
Rouge 

Constant!  a 

* Hamburgh 

*—  Muscadel 
* Muscat 

Raisin 

Smyrna 

Muscat  of  Alexandria 

Muscat  of  Jerusalem 

Syracuse 

*Royal  Muscadine 

*  West's  St.  Peter's 


LIST    OF    FIGS.  131 

*White  Sweet  Water  White  Muscat  of  Lunel 

* Frontinac  Cornichon 

* Muscat  of   Alex-  Hamburgh 

andria  Olcobaca 

Nice  Morillon 

Parsley  Leaved  Muscat 

* Raisin  * Teneriffe 

Syrian  * Tokay 

EXPLANATORY  LIST  OF  FIGS. 

Par.  128. — Yellow  Ischia,  is  a  large  fine 
flavoured  fruit  with  a  yellow  skin  and  deep  red 
flesh  ;  it  is  ripe  about  the  middle  of  October. 

2.  Brown  Naples  Fig ;  this  fruit  is  long,  of  a 
brown  colour,  well  flavoured,  and  is  a  good 
bearer;  it  ripens  early  in  October.     In  good 
seasons  this  fig  will  ripen  well  on  standards. 

3.  Green  Ischia;  this  has  a  thin  green  skin 
with  a  brown  cast ;  when  ripe  the  inside  is  a 
deep  red  inclining  to  purple ;  it  is  a  good  fig 
and  ripens  late  in  September. 

4.  Malta;    this  is    a    fine    flavoured,   small 
brown  fig ;   the  wood  is  rather  tender,  but  if 
the  wood  ripens  well,   it  is   generally  a  good 
bearer ;  it  ripens  early  in  September. 

5.  Black  Ischia ;  this  fig  is  one  of  the  great- 


132  LIST    OF    FIGS. 

est  bearers  we  have ;  the  fruit  when  ripe  is 
nearly  black,  of  a  small  size  but  finely  flavoured; 
it  is  good  for  forcing,  wall  or  standards,  and 
ripens  early. 

6.  Large  White  Genoa ;  this  is  a  large  fig, 
with  a  thin  skin  of  pale  yellow ;  it  is  a  fine  fruit, 
good  bearer,    and    ripens    late  in  August  or 
beginning  of  September;   it  is  a  good  fig  for 
forcing. 

7.  Black  Genoa ;  this  is  along  dark  fig,  quite 
red  inside,  is  fine  flavoured,  and  ripens  early. 

8.  Small   White  Fig;  this  is   a  small  pale 
yellow  fruit,   of   very  good  flavour,   a  great 
bearer,  and  will  do  well  as  standards ;  it  ripens 
early. 

9.  Large  Brown  Ischia ;  this  fig  grows  very 
large, — it  is  brown  outside,  and  purple  within, 
is  fine  flavoured,  and  will  often  produce   two 
crops  in  the  year  ;  it  ripens  early. 

10.  Black  Italian;  this  is  a  small   fig  of  a 
very  fine  flavour  ;  it  is  one  of  the  best  for  grow- 
ing in  pots,  being  a  very  great  bearer. 


CHESTNUTS,    BARBERRIES,    &C.  J33 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  FIGS. 

Those  marked  with  an  Asterisk  (*)  are  described  in  the  explanatory 

List. 

Par.  129.— 

*  Black  Genoa  Madona 

* Ischie  *  Maltese 

* Italian  Murrey 

Blue  Ischie  *Small  Early  White 

Brown  Ischie  Turkey  Large  Black 

* Naples  *  White  Genoa 

Common  Blue  *Yellow  Ischie 

*  Green  Ischie 

CHESTNUTS. 

Par.  130.— 

Golden  Striped  Spanish 

Silver  Striped  Virginian 

BARBERRIES. 

Par.  131.— 

Black  Sweet 

Common  Red  with  Stones 

Red  without  Stones 

QUINCES. 

Par.  132.— 

Apple  Quince 

Oblong 

Portugal 


134  WALNUTS,    RASPBERRIES,    &C. 

WALNUTS. 

Par.  133.— 

Black   Virginian    or  French  Walnut 

Hickery;  Large  Walnut 

Cob  Walnut  Small  Walnut 

Double  Walnut 

FILBERTS  AND  HAZLE  NUTS. 

Par.  134.— 

Barcelona,  or  Spanish  Nut     Cosford  Nut 
Cluster  Wood  Nut  Dwarf  Prolific  Nut 

Cob  Nut  Red  filbert 

Common  Wood  Nut  White  Filbert 

RASPBERRIES. 

Par.  135.— 

Double-bearing  Red  Large  Red 

White  Red  Antwerp 

Early  White  Smooth  Cane 

STRAWBERRIES. 

Par.  136.- 

Alphine  Mathevin  Castle 

Bath  Scarlet  New  Hautboy 

Carolina  Pine  Apple 

Chili  Roseberry 

Downton  Scarlet 

Keen's  Imperial  Suranam 

New  Seedling  Wilmot's  Scarlet 

Knight's  Seedling  '  Wood  Strawberry 


GOOSEBERRIES.  J35 

CURRANTS. 

Par.  137.— 

Black  American  Long  Bunched  Red 

Common  Red  Common 

Large  Pale   Red  Cham-       White  Common 

paigne  Dutch 

COMMON   GOOSEBERRIES  IN  THIS  COUNTRY. 

Par.  138.- 

Champaigne  Large  Smooth  Dutch  Yel- 

Common  White  low 

Early  Black  Smooth  Yellow 

Green  Gascoin'  Small  Early  Red 

Hairy  and  Smooth  Red  Smooth  Green 
Large  Rough  Yellow 

RED  GOOSEBERRIES. 

Alcock's  King  Fox's  Jolly  Smoker 

Boardman's  Royal  Oak  Hall's  Porcupine 

Brundret's  Atlas  Lomax  Victory 

Chapman's  Peerless  Mason's  Hercules 

Dean's  Glory  of  England  Taylor's  Volunteer 

Duke  of  York  Warrington 

Farlow's  Lord  Hood  Worthington's    Glory   of 
Fisher's  Conqueror  Eccles 

GREEN  GOOSEBERRIES. 

Chadwick's  Hero  Royal  Green  Gage 

Dean's  Lord  Hood  Smith's  Mask 

Mill's  Langley  Green  Yeates's  Duke  of  Bedford 
Reid's  Satisfaction 


136 


GOOSEBERRIES. 


WHITE  GOOSEBERRIES. 

Atkinson's  White  Hall 
Chapman's   Highland 

White 
Davenport's  Lady 


Gibson's  Apollo 
Kenyon's  Noble 
Woodward's  Whitesmith 


COLLECTION    OF    VERY    FINE    SORTS    OF    GOOSE- 
BERRIES. 


Ackerley's  Double  Bearer 
Costerdina  Goliah 
Golden  Drop 
Goliah  Champion 
Hampson's  bearer 
High  Sheriff 
Jackson's  Golden  Orange 
Layford's  Seedling 
Monk's  Charles  Fox 


Nixon's  Golden  Eagle 
Bidding's  Old  England 
Royal  George 
Royden's  Triumph 
Rumbulion 
Sparkler 
Supreme  Red 
White  Walnut 
Worthington's  Lilly 


APPENDIX. 


Observations  on  Horticulture  generally. 

HAVING  given  a  description  of  all  the  best 
fruits  in  general  cultivation  in  this  country, 
I  shall  now  hazard  a  few  remarks  on  horticul- 
ture generally. 

The  generality  of  practical  horticulturalists 
have  been  inclined  to  despise  the  theorist,  but 
since  the  study  has  now  become  not  only  a 
fashionable  but  a  profitable  source  of  amuse- 
ment, it  has  led  many  scientific  theorists  to 
furnish  the  practical  man  with  much  useful 
information,  which  the  latter  has  been  able  to 
improve  on,  and  from  experiments  and  prac- 
tice, placed  England  on  a  level,  and,  I  may  add, 
in  a  superior  situation  to  all  Foreign  coun- 


138 


APPENDIX. 


tries  in  this  respect.  The  little  knowledge  I 
possess  on  this  subject,  as  well  as  gardening 
in  general,  is  certainly  mainly  attributable  to 
the  study  of  different  works  which  have  ap- 
peared on  these  subjects ;  but  because  .their 
authors  may  not  have  understood  practically 
what  they  treated  of,  is  no  reason  why  I  should 
be  the  less  sensible  of  the  obligations  I  am 
under  to  them.  Yet,  it  may  be  said,  these 
works  are  mostly  produced  from  ancient  wri- 
tings, as  the  substance  of  most  of  them  was 
known  and  treated  of  by  our  forefathers  :  but 
ought  this  to  be  allowed  to  depreciate  the 
merit  of  their  labours  ?  Would  the  practical 
man,  I  would  ask,  give  himself  the  trouble  to 
search  after  these  ancient  works,  did  he  know 
of  their  existence,  putting  out  of  the  question 
the  expense  he  would  be  at,  (as  most  books  after 
a  certain  date,  become  scarce,  and  are  then 
much  enhanced  in  value,)  and  would  he,  when 
their  attainment  was  accomplished,  find  himself 
competent  to  suggest  the  improvements  made 
by  most  modern  authors?  I  will  (speaking 
collectively)  fearlessly  answer  with  regard  to 
the  first,  he  would  not  be  at  the  trouble ;  and 
with  the  second,  he  would  be  fully  sensible  of 
the  wide  difference  between  imaginary  and 
actual  powers  of  improving.  Thus  might  we 
proceed  in  the  jog  trot  pace  of  antiquity,  were 


APPENDIX.  139 

it  not  for  the  intelligence  and  encouragement 
of  modern  times. 

One  thing  we  have  much  cause  to  lament, 
which  is,  the  premature  decay  of  some  of  our 
most  ornamental,  and  useful  timber  trees* 
particularly  the  elm,  which  is  caused  by  a 
most  destructive  insect :  the  tree  is  first  mal- 
treated by  bruises  on  the  bark,  or  otherwise 
injured,  then  follows  this  destructive  insect, 
which  in  one  of  its  stages  eats  into  the  tree  and 
rapidly  consumes  it ;  these  serious  appearances 
are  to  be  discerned  extensively  in  St.  James's 
Park  and  many  other  places.  I  would  here 
hazard  an  opinion,  from  having  made  it  my 
study  for  many  years ;  but  as  the  cause  may 
only  have  been  an  oversight  in  those  who  have 
the  care  of  them,  it  might  appear  officious  and 
misplaced  in  a  work  of  this  nature. 

Nevertheless,  although  I  shall  pass  this,  I 
cannot  avoid  making  a  few  observations  on  the 
oak ;  and  the  more  especially  as  it  is  a  tree 
(as  my  most  inexperienced  readers  must  know) 
which  supplies  us  with  the  material  best  suited 
to  our  most  important  national  purposes.  Un- 
less we  use  our  utmost  exertions  to  ensure  a 
plentiful  supply  of  this  invaluable  timber,  our 
posterity  will  run  the  risk  of  losing  the  cele- 


140  APPENDIX. 

brity  we  have  so  long  maintained  for  our 
wooden  walls  defence  :  but  this  will  never  be 
the  case,  if  the  system  of  transplanting  oaks 
is  abandoned ;  if  pollard  oaks  are  desirable, 
transplant  your  trees,  but  if  you  wish  for  fine 
timber,  let  your  trees  remain  where  your  acorns 
were  sown,  as  no  tree  feels  the  injury  of  cut- 
ting the  root  like  the  oak. 

I  have  known  the  acorn  which  was  sown 
in  spring  make  a  straight  root  of  upwards  of 
a  yard  long  by  the  following  autumn,  although 
not  grown  more  than  one  foot  out  of  the 
ground ;  and  while  this  root  is  allowed  to  take 
the  lead,  so  long  will  the  tree  keep  a  leader 
and  grow  straight ;  but  when  the  main  root  of 
the  oak  is  cut,  it  will  be  all  chance  about  its 
making  another  leading  root ;  but,  while  it  re- 
mains uncut,  although  it  may  meet  with  stones 
or  other  obstructions,  it  will  find  its  way  and 
still  keep  the  lead ;  indeed  I  am  fully  persuaded 
if  an  oak  tree  ten  years  old  were  planted, 
and  an  acorn  planted  by  it -in  the  same  soil,  in 
ten  years  the  tree  produced  from  the  acorn 
would  be  the  tallest,  provided  the  other  had 
been  transplanted;  be  it  understood,  that  this 
is  a  fact  well  known  by  many  practical  men  : 
I  therefore  have  mentioned  it  for  the  information 
of  those  who  are  unacquainted  with  the  subject. 


APPENDIX.  141 

The  American  oak  is  very  different  to  the 
English ;  this  tree  is  very  ornamental  and  fast 
in  its  growth,  and  will  do  well  from  being 
transplanted ;  I  have  known  them,  in  this 
country,  grow  upwards  of  six  feet  in  one 
season  ;  but  the  wood,  from  its  free  growth,  is 
naturally  porous,  and  more  used  in  this  country 
for  purposes  where  soft  grained  wood  is  neces- 
sary, than  for  its  durability ;  and  as  English 
oak  is  known  not  to  flourish  in  any  country  like 
England,  as  long  as  we  keep  a  good  supply  of 
that  valuable  timber  we  may  always  ensure 
to  ourselves  the  strongest  maritime  power  in 
the  world. 

Although  I  have  passed  over  the  elms  with- 
out entering  deeply  into  the  cause  of  the 
decay  of  this  valuable  tree,  I  must  say,  I  hope 
they  will  not  share  the  same  fate  the  acacias 
did,  many  years  back :  the  common  acacia,  of 
which  I  am  speaking,  is  a  native  of  America, 
where  it  is  now  grown  in  large  quantities,  and 
equal  in  durability  to  any  timber  which  that 
quarter  of  the  globe  produces.  I  find,  from  good 
authority,  at  the  firstplanting  of  the  royal  gardens 
in  St.  James's  Park,  a  great  number  of  them 
were  planted  by  Mr.  Mollett,  who  then  had 
the  laying  out  of  the  grounds  ;  but,  when  the 
trees  grew  large,  the  wood  being  naturally 


142  APPENDIX. 

very  brittle  while  in  a  growing  state,  the  strong 
west  winds,  (which  this  climate  is  very  subject 
to  in  summer,)  were  in  the  habit  of  breaking 
the  limbs,  which  so  disfigured  the  trees  as  to 
render  it  necessary  for  the  beauty  of  the  Park 
to  remove  them  ;  and  although  at  that  time  it  is 
said  they  were  getting  into  general  cultivation, 
the  destroying  the  above-mentioned  trees  was 
fatal  to  the  general  cultivation  by  the  whole 
country.  Notwithstanding  this  tree,  from  its 
beautifully  formed  leaves,  which  affords  a  good 
shade,  the  flowers  a  sweet  smell,  and  the  tree 
itself  a  very  fine  timber,  has  never  recovered 
the  unfavourable  impression  it  received  at  the 
above  period ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  if  such  an 
example  were  to  be  set  with  the  elms,  it  would 
be  followed  by  similar  effects  in  the  country, 
and  deter  landowners  from  planting  in  the 
general  manner  they  have  been  accustomed  to 
do,  and  therefore  as  the  disease  can  be  reme- 
died, it  ought  not  to  be  passed  by  unnoticed  ; 
particularly  by  those  who  have  the  care  of  his 
Majesty's  woods  and  forests. 

I  shall  now,  previous'  to  drawing  to  a  con- 
clusion, make  a  few  additional  remarks  on  fruit 
trees.  Among  the  different  diseases  and  the 
causes  of  those  diseases,  I  find  the  pear-trees 
are  subject  to  a  very  destructive  insect;  par- 


APPENDIX.  143 

ticularly  the  Green  Chisel  Pear;  this  insect 
1  have  not  known  many  years,  neither  can 
I  at  present  give  any  account  of  its  origin. 
The  insects  appear  to  lay  their  eggs  in  the 
cracks  and  cavities  of  the  bark,  where  they* 
hatch,  and  while  in  quite  a  young  state,  they 
are  a  small  slender  maggot  of  a  whitish  yellow 
colour ;  as  they  grow  they  eat  into  the  body  of 
the  tree,  and  when  they  get  to  their  full  size, 
I  have  seen  them  full  two  inches  and  a  half 
long,  and  proportionably  stout,  of  a  red  colour 
and  shining  black  head,  out  of  which  it  sends 
two  small  claws  like  a  pair  of  nippers,  which 
they  make  use  of  to  eat  into  the  tree.  I  have 
seen  large  trees,  at  least  three  feet  in  circum- 
ference in  the  stem,  completely  killed  by  them  : 
T  last  winter  took  out  one  of  them  of  the 
largest  size,  from  a  Green  Chisel  Pear  tree, 
belonging  to  Mr.  Street,  of  Old  Brompton; 
this  was  taken  from  a  large  limb,  where  the 
insect  had  scooped  out  all  the  centre  near  the 
stem,  which  caused  the  wind  to  blow  it  off, 
and  in  the  hollow,  where  it  had  been  living, 
was  at  least  two  quarts  of  saw-dust,  which  the 
insect  had  buried  itself  in. 

Should  this  insect  become  numerous,  and  an 
effectual  remedy  not  be  discovered,  the  devas- 
tation which  it  may  be  expected  to  make,  will 


144  APPENDIX. 

be  of  no  trifling  description  ;  however,  I  hope 
and  trust  a  remedy  will  be  discovered.  Mr. 
Street,  from  having  become  satisfied  by  re- 
peated trials  that  the  Chelsea  Apple  Powder 
greatly  encourages,  rather  than  retards  the 
growth  of  fruit  trees,  has  made  use  of  it  on 
this  occasion,  and  seems  more  and  more  satis- 
fied of  its  having  the  desired  effect :  however, 
as  its  principal  object  is  intended  for  the  pre- 
servation of  the  Apple  trees,  its  further  uses 
must  be  left  for  the  public  to  discover.  Thus  far 
I  can  say,  powerful  as  it  is  in  its  operation  on 
insects,  it  will  not  injure  the  most  tender  plant; 
but  to  recommend  it  for  various  purposes, 
might  lead  it  from  the  main  object,  therefore 
for  the  present  I  wish  to  confine  it  to  the  pre- 
servation of  the  apples. 

A  person  who  has  made  insects  his  study, 
through  their  various  changes,  must  be  lost  in 
astonishment,  when  they  contemplate  the  won- 
derful sagacity  Providence  has  endowed  them 
with;  who  has  taught  the  butterfly  or  moth, 
to  select  the  different  vegetables  or  trees,  their 
young  will  thrive  best  on  ;  how  do  they  know 
their  young  will  become  caterpillars,  and  not  be 
able  to  fly  about  for  food  like  themselves  ? — yet 
nature  has  so  ordered  it,  that  these  destructive 
vermin  may  be  provided  for :  even  the  large 


APPENDIX.  145 

fly,  which  is  so  fond  of  getting  to  meat  in  sum- 
mer ;  it  is  not  that  she  goes  there  for  her  own 
food,  but  mainly  for  the  food  of  her  offspring, 
seeming  to  know  that  if  the  meat  will  remain, 
it  will  afford  plenty  of  food  for  the  maggots 
which  her  eggs  produce. 

I  shall  not  here  expatiate  on  insects,  but 
conclude  by  making  a  few  remarks  on  the 
planting  of  orchards.  The  first  thing  to  con- 
sider when  orchards  are  about  to  planted, 
is  the  soil  which  will  best  suit  the  different 
sorts  of  fruit ;  if  it  is  a  fine  deep  loamy  soil, 
all  kinds  of  fruit  trees  will  succeed  on  it ;  but 
standard  apples  and  pears  will  not  do  well  on 
any  other ;  plums  (although  they  like  loam) 
will  do  well  on  a  sandy  or  gravelly  soil,  pro- 
vided the  gravel  be  not  too  near  the  surface ; 
cherries  will  likewise  succeed  on  various  soils, 
although  they  do  best  on  a  light  loam. 

When  an  orchard  is  about  being  planted  on 
a  fertile  piece  of  land,  (particularly  when  it  is 
intended  for  family  use)  the  various  expla- 
natory lists  of  fruits  should  be  consulted,  and 
a  selection  made  therefrom  (according  to  the 
size  of  the  orchard)  of  all  the  different  fruits* 
consisting  of  Apples,  Pears,  Plums,  Cherries, 
Medlars,  Walnuts,  Chesnuts,  Damsons,  Mul- 

H 


146  APPENDIX, 

berries  and  Quinces,  the  whole  of  which  are 
useful  in  their  seasons  for  the  dessert  and  culi- 
nary purposes,  although  a  few  only  of  some 
of  the  sorts  will  be  necessary,  they  ought  to 
be  planted  to  complete  the  orchard. 

It  is  an  advisable  plan  to  plant  a  row  of 
Walnut  trees  on  the  North  or  North-east  side 
of  the  orchard,  as  they  will  greatly  break 
the  winds  from  the  bloom  of  the  other  trees  ;  for 
although  the  Walnut  is  much  later  than  many 
fruits  in  producing  its  leaves,  it  greatly  assists 
in  protecting  the  neighbouring  bloom  from  the 
East  and  North-east  blasts,  from  which  it 
generally  suffers  more  than  from  any  other 
cause,  and  the  Walnut  itself  from  being  so  late 
in  the  season  before  it  is  in  bloom,  it  is  less 
likely  to  suffer  than  most  other  fruits. 

Indeed  if  we  could  protect  the  Peaches  and 
Nectarines  while  in  bloom,  we  should  have 
them  as  fine  and  plentiful  in  the  open  ground 
in  this  country  as  they  are  in  America ;  but 
the  Peach  and  Nectarine  producing  its  bloom 
before  they  put  forth  their  leaves,  the  cold 
East  wind,  which  we  are  almost  invariably 
subject  to  in  England,  in  the  early  part  of  the 
spring,  is  too  sharp  for  the  tender  bloom,  and 
consequently  they  seldom  produce  a  crop, 


APPENDIX.  147 

except  in  sheltered  situations.  On  the  con- 
trary, in  North  America,  although  they  are 
subject  to  very  severe  weather  throughout  the 
winter,  when  the  frost  breaks  up  and  the  spring 
commences,  they  generally  have  a  continuance 
of  fine  mild  weather,  therefore  the  growth  of 
this  fruit  has  a  preference ;  indeed,  they  are  in 
the  habit  of  planting  orchards  of  Peaches  and 
Nectarines  as  common  as  we  do  Apples. 

Before  1  leave  this  subject,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  speak  of  the  increasing  value  land 
would  be  brought  to  by  cultivating  it  with 
Apples- 

As  one  acre  contains  one  hundred  and  sixty 
square  rods,  and  each  rod  measures  sixteen 
feet  and  a  half  square,  if  the  trees  were 
planted  at  a  rod  apart,  it  would  of  course  take 
one  hundred  and  sixty  trees,  or  if  they  were 
planted  wider,  say  one  hundred  to  the  acre  : 
we  have  then  to  consider  what  would  be  the 
average  profit  arising  from  it.  In  the  first  place 
while  the  trees  are  in  a  young  state,  the  injury 
will  be  so  trifling  to  the  under  crops,  for  the 
first  five  or  six  years,  as  to  be  scarcely  worthy 
of  notice ;  and  by  planting  good  Apples  and  sure 
bearers,  in  that  time  their  produce  would  more 
than  pay  every  expence  of  the  purchase  of  the 

H  2 


148  APPENDIX. 

tiees  and  planting,  and  from  that  time  the  pro- 
fits would  every  year  increase  as  the  trees  grew 
larger  ;  on  the  seventh  year  from  planting,  sup- 
pose you  could  only  ensure  one  bushel  from 
each  tree,  making  one  hundred  bushels,  (this 
Is  putting  it  at  the  lowest  calculation)  and 
each  bushel  worth  five  shillings,  this  will 
amount  to  twenty-five  pounds,  and  allowing 
every  future  year  the  fruit  of  each  tree  to 
increase  in  value  only  sixpence,  from  the 
increasing  growth  of  the  tree  for  twenty  years, 
which  by  planting  at  that  distance  they  would 
have  sufficient  room  to  do,  it  would  make  the 
produce  of  each  tree  worth  fifteen  shillings, 
and  the  gross  produce  of  the  acre  worth 
seventy-five  pounds  per  year  independent  of 
the  meadow. 

In  this  statement  it  must  be  allowed  I  have 
stated  the  produce  at  the  lowest,  having  allowed 
each  tree  at  the  age  of  twenty- seven  years  to 
produce  only  three 'bushels,  and  each  bushel  at 
five  shillings ;  some  persons  may  say  they  have 
known  Apples  sold  at  eighteen  pence  and  two 
shillings  per  bushel,  but  those  were  not  such 
Apples  as  I  have  recommended  ;  I  have 
known  the  Sykehouse  Apple  selling  in  Covent- 
garden  market  for  twenty-five  shillings  per 


APPENDIX.  149 

bushel,  when  many  inferior  sorts  have  been 
selling  at  from  three  to  five  shillings  ;  there 
are  many  other  sorts  equally  as  valuable  as  the 
Sykehouse,  which  may  be  seen  by  consulting 
the  explanatory  list ;  and  as  the  demand  for 
Apples  is,  and  always  will  be  very  great,  I 
know  of  no  crop  the  land  could  produce  that 
would  tend  to  a  more  sure  or  greater  source  of 
profit. 


LONDON : 
SHACK  EM.   AND  ARROWSMITH,   JOHNSON'S  COHHT,  FLEET-STREET. 


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